I thought I would share this with anyone interested. I have been making ultra-lights for stream trout for over 25 years. Last summer I was fishing with my son and he was using a RainShadow IS600 that I had just built for him and I was using my best rod . The streams in Southeastern Minnesota are low and clear we haven't had a good rain since last spring and you have to reach out and touch the tro
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Billy's topic below this brought up a problem I've been having. I had tried many times to make a decal with my HP5550 printer that has a client's name on it. When I put this decal on a bare blank or a blank with finish on it, the name just disappears. I put finish over it on a scrap piece of blank, same result. It would really be nice to be able to do this on the rods that I build. Any suggestion
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Just an update of the first 6 or so years of RodMaker for those searching for a particular article. I haven't added volume 7 #1, but it is listed with the table of contents on the back issue page at the RodMaker website .......... RodMaker Magazine Index Volumes 1 through 6 (V=Volume, #=Issue Number) *Rod Building News and the Q&A Column are not included in this index. ROD BUILDING TE
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Gentlemen: I am about to install my third water slide decal, I am also using micro set for the decal installation. They have all come out looking great. However, when I apply the first coat of epoxy over the decal the epoxy is repelled directly over the decal causing an uneven finish. I have corrected this problem in the past by applying three coats of epoxy to get a level finish. I am curi
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Beware!... I have nuked many feet of hypalon, but I just toasted a length of the raw (skin on) and it popped like a hot doggie! Better to use the oven @ 250 deg. That's how I usually do it {:-)
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Tom Whats that decal lube called? Thanks Jim
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Hi all, Finished my first fly rod last night. I made plenty of rookie mistakes, but that's okay, as I will know better next time, and the rod's just for me anyway. But this one bugged me a bit. I got a very nice customized decal from our friends at DC, and soaked it in water for a minute or two, then slid it onto the blank. Then I tried to tamp away all moisture and allow it an hour or so to
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I'm relatively new to fly fishing. I recently decided that I wanted to build 2-3 weight fly rod suitable for the smaller stocked trout and bluegills available in Philadelphia suburbs. Many of the these streams are tight. Long casts are not an option. I decided to purchase a 6ft, 3-weight, 3 piece blank form Lamiglas. My goal is to build the best performing ultralight I can using this blank. I hav
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Well,I only build flyrods for now and I've been using LS Supreme since starting out.I have had somewhat mixed results unfortunately.When everything goes right,it looks fantastic,but I've had too many cases where it doesn't and feel it may be time for a change(or at least time to try something else). My health has been diminishing and I've found that the extra coats needed for the results I want(
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I'm trying to smooth out the epoxy my butt wraps and the suggestion was made to heat the epoxy and then remove the excess after I coat the wrap. What is the best way to accomplish this. I have an alcohol lamp, is this the best way? If so how long do I heat it? i don't want bubbles to form. Is there a better expoxy for butt wraps than LS Supreme (what I have been using). Thanks..... Steve
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i saw some acrylic pen blanks at the local woodworking shop and picked one up to play with. i can turn it down to the shape i want. my question is what is used to get the last few scratches out and buff it to a shine? this material is neat ,but i learned to be careful not to get it too hot as it melts. any suggestions would be helpful
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I was wondering if anyone has one and can tell me if they are any good? Any problems? Just wondering still looking for a new lathe. I noticed they are inesxpensive and I have friends who have other tools by them that are both good and bad. Thanks, Charlie
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I stripped and refurbished a couple of rods and tried some new finishes. I have been using Glass Coat for the past 6 months and really like it, especially for butt wraps and marble-izing. It's thick and dries quickly. I picked up some LS Supreme Hi-Build at the show and had some real bubble problems so I tried some Aftcote on one rod and the American Tackle finish on another. Aftcote is th
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I am building a fore grip using alternating 1/2" cork rings and 1/8" thick black walnut rings. I'm having difficulty with it because of the different hardness of the two materials. I am using my drill press as an improvised wood lathe. Any suggestions on how to shape this thing without screwing it up?? Any help will be appreciated
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I have a couple rods to apply decals to. I applied the underlayer of epoxy this morning. How long to I need to wait for it to cure before applying the decals? Decal Connection's instructioins say "well cured", but I've also hear or read to not let the epoxy cure for more than a day before applying the next coat. I have today to do this, and leave tomorrow morning for a week. Thank
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I just finished a 7' Eglass boat rod, gloss black, with a simple diamond butt wrap. After the 3rd coat of Flex Coat hi build I notice a sort of cloudy appearance under bright light or in the sunlight. I did a search of this board and found where someone said that using a soda straw to blow on the finish to remove bubbles could cause "micro bubbles" in the finish, but that heat would r
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Guys, I'm putting a label on a flyrod for a friend and I'm placing a base coat of epoxy (LS Supreme) then the label then the second coat of epoxy. The problem I'm having is getting the first coat of epoxy to smooth to that glass like surface you see on factory rods. Total length of the covered area is about 4". Is there a trick to this? Will the second coat smooth out small dimples or wave
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I'm building my wife a really nice ultra light spinning rod for fishing brook trout. I would like to buy her a really good spinning reel to match. Are there any brands or models I should look at? The reel needs to be small (smaller the better) and silver.
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Alright.....What's the secret to using this darn thing?!?!?! I am having basically two problems. 1. I am using a spatula to apply the finish. I am getting tiny micro bubbles due to (What I think) the constant "jumping" of the spatula that occurs as the high spot of the guide foot comes around. Is that my problem? How can I fix it or work around it? 2. When I am doing the larger
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I'm in a bind and don't have time to wait for the backissue of Rodmaker that has article on making the spatula, so I need to know if it is as simple as taking the Gudebrod spatula and grinding the end so it's flat? I just got to try my new Flexcoat 200 RPM finishing machine and my usual plastic credit card spatula won't cut it for this machine. It seems to introduce micro bubbles from the conti
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I just finished my first rod and have some questions about thread epoxy finishes. You see I am not unhappy with my results I believe it is not bad for a first try, but some of the guide's thread wraps have fluffly little hairs from the threads trapped in time by the epoxy. I was thinking of putting another coat of epoxy on my thread wrap, which is a question in itself, do I or don't I? But wha
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I've used RodBond exclusively for 2 years now and have noticed, in a few of the batches I recieved, that the resin component (white) is very dry and hard...like wax, and in other batches it is very soft like vasoline. The hardener component (yellow), is consistently soft. It all seems the same after it's mixed and it cures....but was wondering if it had a shelf-life....or if it should not be us
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I have a Renzetti Lathe and it is great for wrapping and minor turning. I was just wondering about small metal lathes and wanted to take a poll and see what others have and like. I want to be able to turn wood inserts, machine metal components and tube stock, and knurling and boring. 7x10, 7x12, 7 x14? Thanks The Don
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Now that I've worked with LS Supreme thread coat epoxy, I've decided to try lighter epoxy, something that flows easier. With LS Supreme I find I'm spending quite a bit of time spreading the epoxy on my wraps and am not always happy with the results. My work area is around 72 degrees while doing my epoxy coatings. As a result of my research here on the site, I'm considering trying Aftcote and P
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Just a quick question. Can the two- part epoxy used for boat restoration and repair be used for certain rod-building applications? i buy this stuff in 7.5 gallon kits so have plenty of it and am very comfortable in using it and all of the various fillers (cabosil, micro-bubbles, etc). Late. d
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1 My one blank fits the reelseat perfectly with very little "wiggle room", can I just insert the blank into the reelseat using RodBond or should I still put on a tape arbour first?? 2 Sage puts factory dots on the blank for spline purposes(yeah I know its not really the spline).What would I use to carefully remove them once I'm done(or should I say if I'm ever done)??? 3 I have b
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Hello, I have just finished wrapping my first rod. It looks great and I'm so proud. I'm really hooked now. I have a waterslide decal to apply and want to make sure I do it right. Before I tear it up, could anyone tell me the procedure for applying this type of decal? I bought it from Decal Connection. Thanks for your help. Mat
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i use ls supreme and i use a flame all the time. i have seen alot of posts lately saying never use heat with ls supreme. i was just wondereing what the reasons are not to use heat,or is this just an old wives tale? do others use heat with ls? thanks, rick
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Just got my wine enthusiast catalog in the mail and saw a wine perserving system that pumps the air out of the bottle so you can recork it. It's just a simple cap for the bottle that extracts the air and keeps it from getting back in. If oxygen is the problem this might work. I'll check it out and let you know.
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I've heard many horor stories on the ink jet decal paper. does anyone have any experience with the lazer printers? If so how do you go about it.
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