Hi folks, friend of mine received a.m. finish without instructions in package. Somebody has? By mail would be great. rgds, Ole Ellerau/Germany
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I just tried to remove a Fuji TiSic top from one of my rods and it wasn't budging with my usual light lighter heat and pliers so I kept giving it more and more heat. It just shot across the room like a bullet and the tip graphite fibers all seperated. Top is MIA. I had to trim the blank about 1/2 an inch. Titanium graphite popcorn. Is this a common problem with Titanium. Are there any trick
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Hello out there, I am curious about the general shelf life of epoxy coating components how we use it for the wrappings, considered we keep it in a "normal" temperatured place (that means no cooking or freezing). RGDS, Ole
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I have been using Loctite 60 min epoxy for my reel seats, and can buy it one block from my house, I don't drive because health reasons. But the last couple of tubes I've bought it seams like the resin is gelled like not smooth and runny like the hardner. I know I've seen posts on this and did a search but came up with reel seat repairs. Thanks to all the people that respond to all the questions.
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I spen the weekend working on my first rod, I was "done" a few weeks ago, but it didnt look so great. So I leveled off some of the peaks on the wraps, and added a feather inlay. ( I used a elmers glue stick for adhesive, and it worked great) I mixed up a batch of flex coat, perfectly measured everything perfect. The finish has been "drying" for 2 days, but is still tacky. I ro
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Is there any down side to buying realseats a little smaller in diameter than the blank, then reaming them to fit. Or is it better to use tape or graphite arbors? Thanks in advance!
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Yellowing of Finish: The long term clarity of finish when exposed to sunlight is an important issue to custom rodbuilders. Many subjective claims are made which compare one finish to another with descriptive phrases. If there was a quality control group that worked with various products for custom rods the following would surely be done. There is a laboratory instrument called a colorim
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The wrap finish on a rod I built last year is cracking (U-40 LS Supreme). As I did the measuring with syringes, I feel comfortable that the mixtures were correct. I suspect that the epoxy had reached the end of its shelf life. I have a number of questions: First, can I remove the imperfect finish without removing the wraps, and, if so, how? Second, what are the causes of these blemishes, if
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What is the shelf of flexcoat after the bottles have been opened? I had a bottle of their regular resin go cloudy/crystallize on me in less than a year. I have a bottle a bottle of their "lite" resin that I used to finish one rod last may. It has not crystallized, and I want to make sure that it is okay to use before I ruin my work.
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May be crazy question, but if even amounts of each were mixed-would there be any advantages or disadvantages. Are they compatable? I guess it is late at night. Thanks Bill
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Like many of you I use Flex Coat High/Lite build epoxy for finnishing my wraps. Lately I have been having a problem with the bottles setting up on me. I do drill a hole in caps of the bottles and mount the syringes in them. Last night I went to grab a new bottle of hardener (black) and it had also begun to set up. Am I doing something wrong? Does the epoxy need to be stored in some manner? I w
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I received many requests to address my new Rod Finish Products on the rodbuilders.org board. I want to clarify what I have developed. Diamondite Rod Finish is a 2-part adhesive that was developed for a different application in a difference industry. I have been able to reformulate it for use in the rod building industry. I worked with some of the big name rod builders on the West Coast to
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I built my first rod two years ago, and I have now just finished wrapping a new rod. When I pulled out my epoxy finish (U-40 LS Supreme), the Hardener had turned an amber color. I mixed a small sample, and it also turned out amber. Can anything be done to salvage this epoxy? I can purchase Flex Coat locally, and will do so later this afternoon, however, I want to know if the LS Supreme can be
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I have been using Flex Coat High Build and have spent an inordinate amount of time dealing with bubbles. It is driving me nuts(short trip in case you wanted to know). Anyone got any suggestions on a finish that will have a fairly decent build and not be such a hassle with bubbles? I have built some rods in the very distant past and used the version of flex coat that was out there then and had
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I used some Flex Coat rod finish that is over a year old. I mixed it for three minutes it never went clear and it always looked like there were a million bubbles in it. It seemed to apply clear, but it was turning to chewing gum by the time I reached the fourth guide in less than 30 minutes. Temp here 66 degrees, soild overcast. Anyone experienced this?
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I was pretty bummed-out to find that the hardener in the LS Supreme had yellowed pretty bad after having not used any for a few months.Even after mixing up a batch it still remained yellow.I was under the impression that this stuff stayed clear.That is why I switched to it after using Flex-coat for years.Does this happen to Glass Coat also?Any insight would be great.Thanks in advance.
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I read in Mudhole's catalog that AFTCOTE Rod wrapping Finish is a "two-part urethane-modified, custom mixed epoxy. Non-yellowing and UV resistant. Super High-gloss sheen" I've read many times in this phorum that urethane finishes (mostly Perma Gloss) have excelent finish and gloss, with the problem of self-polymerization (short life once opened). Is this AFTCOTE as good as other u
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I'm working on re-wrapping and re-finishing a 50-80 lb. class rod that was previously expoxied over the whole rod. I use Aftcoat finish most of the time, but i sometimes use flex coat. When a removed the finish from the rod, it really didn't look too great, but putting finish right back over it would make it look almost as good as a new rod. Now.....what type of finish would be best for puttin
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... Until the world's largest rod building event gets underway. There are a couple additions I need to make to the seminar list but I won't add those until next week after I've gotten things firmed up. A couple more vendors have signed on and a couple more are expected to get on board later this week. I'll update again around the first of next week. .......... The National Rod Builders S
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Little has changed, but here is the latest for those who may not have seen it. I won't relist it here until next Monday. .......... The National Rod Builders Show February 26 & 27, 2005 Charlotte Convention Center Charlotte, NC "The World's Largest Rod Building Event" ................. Admission fee is just $12 for one day, or $20 for both days. There is no char
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I have added St. Croix to the list and will get this whole thing back on the newly formatted board. ................ February 26 & 27, 2005 Charlotte Convention Center Charlotte, NC "The World's Largest Rod Building Event" ................. Admission fee is just $12 for one day, or $20 for both days. There is no charge for the Saturday evening social gathering if
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The National Rod Builders Show February 26 & 27, 2005 Charlotte Convention Center Charlotte, NC "The World's Largest Rod Building Event" ................. Admission fee is just $12 for one day, or $20 for both days. There is no charge for the Saturday evening social gathering if you have a show admission ticket. Door prizes will be awarded, but there is nothing to buy nor any fe
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That's roughly the number of rod blanks that will be on hand for you to shake, handle, flex, etc., at the National Rod Builders Show in Charlotte. And most will be sold at special show prices. These will be comprised of fly, spinning, casting, surf, trolling, boat, steelhead, pack/travel, walleye and every other type blank you can think of. Just another show tidbit I thought I'd mention. I
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The seminars and rod building floor demos are pretty much set now. We may add two or three more seminars, depending on how we can arrange things. I'll know better by the end of this month, but the following list is pretty much set in stone now. There are still a handful of manufacturers and dealers who have told me that they plan to attend and display but have not bought booth space yet. I w
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I had a custom 10' 7Wt Pacific Bay Rod made for me from a crafter in NY for the upcoming steelhead season here in Ohio. Overall, I am quite happy with the rod, but one thing is very apparent...The cork grip diameter is way too small for my hand. To be honest, I haven't a clue why this reverse half well grip is so small, but it must go. I was hoping that one of the many (or all for that matter)
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I MIGHT build two rods a year, more likely less. What is the shelf life of the most popular finishes, Glass Coat, Classic Coat or LS Supreme? Would it be worth my while to spend the money on one of them? If they don't last long after opening, seems like it would be wasted money if I had to toss it after using it only a couple of times Thanks, Murf/kokehead
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I bought some LS Supreme last year and I used some of it the remainder has been sitting in an unheated garage since then. I know it got well below freezing this winter, but I'm not sure if it can freeze. Is it still usable or should I just chuck it and get more? Any Ideas???? Thanks, Tony
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I do a lot of pier fishing at night. I stand outside the light in the dark and cast just outside the light. In high winds before a storm when the fish are extremely active I often have trouble feeling a strike. My question is has anyone tried mixing anything like strontium aluminate glow powder with their epoxy? With a little glow to the tip I would not have to count on feel alone. Standing in th
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I haven't done any rod work for a few months and when I opened my box of goodies (sealed box with all my building tools and bonding agents) i noticed that my bottle of Glass Coat was thick (jello-like) and white. I've read about this happending. What's the cure? I assume it is still useable? Coby
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I have been asked from time to time what epoxy or epoxies I use for my feather work and I have always told everyone that I use HobbyPoxy. I had recently discovered that HobbyPoxy now longer exists, except for my stash. I have now experimented and found a substitute and it is even better than HobbyPoxy. I use Klass Kote NOW and it is some really nice stuff. It is gin clear, very thin and VERY
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