I think (could be wrong) that blanks are "rated" by their pre-build characteristics.
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"what brand guides they use will help" 800-508-6013 info@13fishing.com They may or may not tell you about the guides used!
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An external sleeve as described here has worked for me.
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After applying a sufficient layer of finish with either manual or finishing motor rotation to the top of the blank with it moving away from me, I move from the top of the blank for applying to the bottom with the spatula just barely touching the blank. Going the length of the finished area once or twice near the bottom front of the blank lets any excess collect on spatula. If using a brush, I use
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From Google - "Is UV resin better than epoxy resin? UV resin cures quickly with exposure to UV light, while epoxy requires time, heat, or catalysts to cure. This means that if you need a resin that will harden quickly, UV resin is the way to go. However, epoxy is more durable in the long run. UV resin is more brittle and less durable than epoxy.Jan 8, 2023 " I believe some are using i
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If it is a painted blank originally and the paint has not been removed to the underlying surface, the finish scratches will most likely disappear with a finish over the section.
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Even though each section was built on the straightest axis, when assembled slight imperfections of the concentricity in the internal ferrules can sometimes create a "curve". If it hasn't been finished yet, some tweaking may straighten the appearance.
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Sometimes customers ask for impractical or even impossible products to build for them. This may be one of those situations. I would think a 13-14 foot center pin rod comes the closest to what is possible in this case (long drift rod). Maybe this could be presented as the best available alternative.
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Superfine steel wool will work to degloss the finish surface if needed.
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Is It a low viscosity finish (lite finish)?
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You probably don't need to worry about a "5 day deadline" and if you do decide to scuff the thread finish before applying a second coat use an ultrafine scuff pad very lightly as already suggested. There is no need to use anything more abrasive.
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Stated above - "some ideas as to pick up epoxy that works for the thread at a local area." Unless you have a tackle or rod component store in your locality that has rod building thread finish, I think you would be better off ordering some. I have had the resin thicken up many times but never the hardener component. The resin will re-liquify if microwaved for about ten seconds at a ti
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I have used thread finish as glue for rod building with no ill effects. It is runny initially so you might want to let it set up a bit before applying.
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I would try joint pliers or a small pipe wrench on the locking ring after wrapping it to keep it from being chewed up by the wrench. The leverage might be enough to move the ring.
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ross, > > Thanks, the painted core is what I was interested > thinking about. > > What concerns me is the core material doesn't seem > very sturdy by itself and I know the carbon sleeve > adds strength to the core but I am not sure how > well paint will protect the core from ding
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These ready to cut and shape foam cores work well and avoid the work of making your own from scratch. My process in brief is cut, shape, thread finish, white latex house paint prime, base metallic FolkArt acrylic craft paint, thread finish or Varthane water based Spar exterior urethane (if base isn't going to be roughed up), decorative painting with FolkArt metallic(s), and finally thr
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Does anyone have a photo of a rod with a foam core > grip. > > Thanks The first link - carbon skinned. The second - painted.
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I frequently use foam cores that I paint and then coat with thread finish. A top coat of Perma Gloss would give the grip additional hardness. I think Perma Gloss directly over the foam or painted foam would probably degrade the surface. Thread finish over the foam to initially smooth and level the surface protects it as well from being eaten by the "hot" urethane finish.
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Google search = "Bonda Seal Clear, rustins.ltd·Manufacturer Moisture cured single part polyurethane varnish. Formulated from high performance resins to provide a non-porous sealer with outstanding non-yellowing properties and gloss retention. Use: Concrete, Masonry Size: 8.5 fluid ounces, 33.8 fluid ounces, 84.5 fluid ounces, 1.3 gallons Type: Surface Coating" Sounds a lot like P
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This RodMaker Magazine video is worth a look - .
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Having the rod sit indefinitely before finishing is not a problem as long it is in a relatively clean and dust free area. Take all the time you need and enjoy the learning experience and be satisfied with the guide alignment and appearance before putting on the finish.
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A little heat from a hair dryer or embossing gun may allow you to insert a bodkin or needle near the tunnel end of the thread wrap and through the last thread or two from the inside out. With rotation(s) the tag end can be pulled out to allow unwinding the thread. Gentle heat can aid in removing the remaining epoxy thread finish with a craft stick. Spine is not important to guide placement wit
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Looks like a snelling or whip finishing technique to me.
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About equal length fore and rear grips for 9 to 10 foot shore fishing rods on the right side of the picture to balance the rods by holding in the fore grip.
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Metallic black craft paint faux finish over metallic gold thread
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Lots of steps to this one
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Coordinating handle and thread colors
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Cover by Tom Kirkman - grips by me
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Quick and simple
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