After four or five passes, or when you change a color in your wrap, try doing another pass with a larger size thread. It's easier to pack firmly against the bigger diameter. Pack all the points and then remove the larger thread. If your threads are still moving, use more tension in your pattern threads.
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Skip the masking tape. Use the thin double sided tape. Your pattern is most likley sliding up or down the blank. Butt wraps? Tape a popsicle stick at each end (grip and tip), a turn of the two sided tape and you're good to go. Add another tape turn after so many passes. Cut through your tape bands on top of the popsicle stick to remove your waste
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There are a number of sources for placing Fuji > guides. Fuji publishes a few charts in their > Japanese catalog. We developed GPS. Mudhole > assembled kits. And then there's static loading. > It can be confusing. Every one of these sources > will give you a different layout. I honestly > belie
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That post should be framed and hung in every rodbuilder's shop. That's funny stuff. Thank you Jim.
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You got your answer. UTMOST.
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Ah....do you not suppose Aleks was referring to shipping OUTSIDE the US? Oops, didn't see that last part.
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Layout your first cross using square spacing and just keep cutting it half until you get the size you want.
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Would someone with back issues be kind enough to copy a left list from Jim Kastroff's mermaid weave pattern in Vol 4 issue 3 for me. Can't find my copy anywhere and I don't have enough hair left to tear out in dismay. One of my favorite patterns from one of the best weavers around. Thanks. Think my email is open.
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rub something like a popsicle stick over the residue. Fingernails work as well. If you are going to put a guide back in the same place, a bit of 400 sandpaper can be used and thread extended a wrap or two to cover any scar marks. Heat can soften.......and melt blanks. Don't ask how I know that.
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I use a tack cloth all the time, if people have a problem with them, it's possible that they are being used incorrectly. You are most likley right in your temperature diagnosis.
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There you go. And it can be a pretty good sized ballpark. Still amazes me how many people still want to ream.
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Do what Roger suggests, but you might have to up the pipe to 2 1/2" if you have a 25 or 30 spinning guide on there. Check your postal service rates, they are most often less than the shippers. I use the blue caps (a small piece of bubble wrap stuck in them at each end) and 2" clear sealing tape.
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Higher speed = faster application and sharper, cleaner edges.
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Dereck, call Utmost and leave your phone number. And unhide your email for this site.
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The RDR on that page is the only one that fits his needs, price could certainly be beat.
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You could ask Batson's about the DSS series. Check with Utmost Enterprises, they carry all the Rainshadow line up.
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If I had to wait 24 hours for CP to dry, I'd change my CP. If I had to have 70 degrees for it to dry I'd have to sell my house and move to Arizona. Take the tip from Bill, it's most likely packing.
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Unless you are using an exceptionally large (or high frame) reel a size 16 guide should be adequate as a butt guide. If it is something as big as an older Penn 3/0 or 4/0 you could start with a 20. For a 7' try 16. 12, 10 8, out with 7's. Or 16, 10 and out with 7's. Easy peasy.
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I think you will be very happy with that blank. Check Utmost Enterprises for availability...good people, good price, excellent shipping costs.
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I think so. My biggest is 67 and that was on a tough stick (66mh). To me, anything over 30 is just work, may as well use a rail rod and electric reel. The 250 would be fun and get the job done. I have several RCLJB's on local boats and have had no complaints. With the way our halibut seasons are going, it's nice to have one rod for halibut and the same one for bass and lings on the way back.
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There was a thread on one of the SoCal boards that suggested a perfume atomiser and acetone. The very light mist is what did the trick. Only works if you can acetone up there!! Why not use a finish mixer and eliminate the bubbles all together?
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Rainshadow RCKJB 600 or 606-325., or go to the 606-250 for more fun. All are skinny things with brutal strength and nice sensitive tips. I know Utmost Enterprises gets them from Batson's in one day if they are in stock, and I bet they are. Great blanks, good price and perfect for our northwest butts.
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Just curious Bill, the bubble buster Utmost carries is a plastic bottle, wick and some marbles. They ship them all over the place. It's just an empty bottle. You can't get that shipped to Alaska??
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Put heat or cold shrink on the EVA if they are getting beat up. I think Batson still has a tutorial on a neat install method somewhere on their web site. Maybe James Taylor can tell ya where it is!
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Check with Carol at Utmost. They have a bunch of oversized EVA in the shop and I know you won't beat the price.
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If they are available from Batson's, Utmost Enterprises would be your best bet. Right down the street and actual mailing costs...no handling charges.
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Can't say Ben. All my cork work is with rings, reamed to fit. Cork won't stretch. Was that a trick question??!!
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Gaga??? Nope, I got gaga when automatic transmissions came in. If you had trouble with the rubber cement installation method, you may have missed a step in the process. Use it if you want to or not. It is a game changer for a whole lot of rodbuilders. For me, I'm always on the hunt for something that makes the process easier and quicker. And a .625 grip would go like butter on hot toast. I have
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Use the rubber cement method. Get the large ID, no reaming needed.
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One phone csll to Batson's and your problem will be solved. You have one of the best machines on the market and a company to back it up.
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