Has anyone had any experience with mudhole's crb inshore series rods, specificly model isp 805.
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Not sure how soft the tip is since I have a heavier version but a phenix black diamond PSW760L 7'6" 8-25 1pc mod- fast action or PSW760ML 7'6" 10-30 1pc fast action sounds like maybe a good choice. I have the 7ft heavy version and it has a relatively soft tip( for a rod rated for 20-60lb line) and loads of backbone. I have used mine for live bait fishing and shark fishing on the bott
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Not sure if this is right but giving it a shot with the pics of my cork handles
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How do you post pictures on here? I can take a picture or two of my cork and see what yall think, but I think it is replacement time vs just needing a good cleaning. I could be wrong though.
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I know I shouldn't feel silly for asking questions on here, but I am used to going on my own and figuring stuff out. If it was any old rod I would more than likely start pulling cork off and see what happens. This is the first baitcasting rod I bought after I taught myself how to cast a baitcaster. I know it has to be 20 years old at the very least and is still one of my go to rods when ever I go
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So once I get the cork off, do I use some heat to remove the epoxy that glued the cork grips on? I feel kinda silly asking but I haven't torn down a rod handle before and this is a sentimental rod for me and I don't wanna mess it up.
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I have a kunnan rod I want to strip and redo since the wraps, guides, and the cork grips are showing thier age. How is the best way to take off the cork handles? I want to also rewrap it with thread that is as close to original as possible, does any one happen to know what color blue thread they used on the rod or should I just try and eyeball and find the best match?
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The brass tube thing sounds interesting, do I need a special type of contact cement? I was thinking could I grind down some of the spare eva into powder and mix it with some type of glue to fill in the gaps that way? I figure as a last resort I can cut out the damaged part and extend the threads I wrapped on the split grip a little farther up the blank and cut and glue a winding check in
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I was taking epoxy off of guides and from those pesky decals I am working with and I peeled some epoxy off that had come up against and soaked into the eva handle. Well now I have a couple small chunks missing from the eva. It is the bottom of the grip up against a winding check and the chunks go probably 1/8 inch deep behind the winding check.
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Thanks guys, the alcohol smearing the stuff around sounds like it might be why some parts repelled the epoxy and some didn't. I'm guessing the dna is denatured alcohol?
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I am building a rod for a friend and he sent me some clear sticker/decals to put on his rod, the problem is they want to shed the epoxy. I'll have the stickers covered with a nice smooth coat of epoxy and come back a few minutes later and it has shed the epoxy, sometimes it is the whole decal sometimes it is just a part of it. What can I do to prevent it? Also what's the best way to keep them st
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Yeah I bet it could. I eyeballed the piece I got before I bought it and then double checked it by chucking it in the drill and giving it a spin. I will give it a go tomorrow and see how it works now that the wind has died down.
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I like the drill and threaded rod idea, I'll have to go to the hardware store and get the stuff i need. Thanks
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I don't have a lathe or a power wrapper or anything so I'll be doing this all by hand. So which would be the best way to sand down the edges of eva grips so it meets up to a butt cap, reel seat, or to taper it towards the rod blank some? Would it be better to sand it down first then put it on the rod or to glue everything up and then tape off the reel seat/blank/butt cap and then sand the eva dow
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I don't have a reel seat yet to mount the reel on the rod to see how much clearance I need but the reel sits low enough I dont think I'll need anything bigger than 20, but on the other hand it may be low enough I'll need to go bigger to raise the line up. I might be able to use 8's for runners but I'll have a couple biminis and a connecting knot running though occasionally so I was thinking 10's,
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I have a Phenix psw700h blank that I am building for my Okuma Andros reel. I am thinking I will run 40 or 50lb braid on the reel once I go all braid on it. I was planning on doing a spiral wrap, what guides would yall recommend? I was thinking titanium K guides from fuji or virtus light titanium. Also I was thinking of using a 16, 2 12's as the transition guides and then 5 10's. Does that sound a
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Thanks for all the info guys. I actually blame Mudhole for this, in a good way of course. I took their rod building course in Raleigh and I have been looking at most of my rods and when I did a stress test on my UL it looked like it needed an extra guide or two so the line angle between the guides isnt so sharp. If I add a guide though I am afraid it would slow down the rod which is why i was thi
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My reel is a 10 sized quantum, the spool isnt that big but it has a long reel stem. I went and loooked at the concept guide spacing in the library and if I did it like that the choker guide would be only about 8 inches from the tip. My rod is only 5'6'', could I do 2 high framed guides then drop down to micros, or would I do 2 high framed guides, a 8 or 6 sized guide then down to micros?
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On an ultralight spinning rod, or any spinning rod I guess, how do you determine the size of the first few guides before going down to the micros? Also does the action of the rod help or hamper micros?
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Does it make a difference on how the butt guides are on the blank? Any big game casting reel like that tld you level the line with your thumb as you reel the line in, so why wouldnt you have the first guide dead center lined up with the reel seat and the reel?
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