Randy, I use 5 minute epoxy to attach all of my Tip Tops. I live in CA and I have found that the hot melt glue will get hot in the sun and allow the tip top to rotate. I have a tooth pick that I have sanded down a little to get some epoxy into the Tip Top tube and apply some to the blank. I have never had one come loose and if I need to remove them, I jus hear the Tip Top a little and it will
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The best way I have found to prep guides is with a Dremel Tool and a Dremel #425 Polishing Wheel. It works great, moves material very quickly and leave the guide foot polished and really to wrap.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have built a lot of the 5SC70MF and they are > very nice blanks, but I think you may want extra > fast for drop shot, and the MF is what I would > call fast, not extra fast. If you want something > that is excellent but less expensive, look at > RX8+S822.5 Rainshadow. It can be had for ab
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Frank, I have been building bass rods for tears using size A metallic thread and have never had a thread problem.
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Fernando, If you have not tried them give Mudhole's MHX High Modulus a try. I have not been disappoint with any of their blanks and my customers love them. For a spinning rod blank you might consider: Mudhole's HM-SJ843-MHX 7' 1 8-15 3/8 - 5/8 Fast Med
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'Worked for me...Thanks Jim
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Mike Lawson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There was a thread some time ago with instructions > for a box to place rods into for good pics. A > search turned up lots but not that particular > thread. Any tips for capturing rod builds in good > photos are greatly appreciated. I second this inquiry!
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scott clarke Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the advice gentleman, i'm using snake > skin under the guides & metallic thread overbind. > Building a rod for a good mate & thats what he > wants! Have not done this before so wish me luck, > any other tips would be cool bananas, cheers. Scott, Just do not pull the metallic
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Scott, I use size A metallic thread all on the time and have never had a thread problem with any of my builds. On saltwater rods I use size A under-wrap and size D over-wrap on the guides. Never a problem, although you will find it is a little more difficult to wrap with it until you get the hang of it.
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Drew Longnecker Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You say you have used the same sable brushes for > 35 years. How do you clean them and store them? I may get in trouble for this, but I use Diamond 2 Brush Cleaner from Bullard International. I even store my sable brushes in it and they come out soft and supple ready to use...just wash them off with warm
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Josh, Try a 3/4" hole saw available at your local hardware store...works great.
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Tod, IMHO, I would recommend the Mudhole's ProKote thread epoxy. It has a medium thickness, has a longer working time than most expoies and comes out crystal clear without bubbles. I would recommend two coats and I am confident you will be very please. Mudhole also make a High Build, which is thicker than the original ProKote. You will not be disappointed with ProKote. It is my "Go To&quo
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Cameron, I personally would go with the fast action to move the fish quicker out of the slop.
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As Joe says above...Mudhole's Chart is great! I also use it to size winding checks and trim pieces on blanks from other manufacturers. I just find a blank on the Mudhole Chart of the same length, close to the same butt diameter and same tip size. Then use the diameter indicated in the Mudhole Chart to size winding checks, etc. So far it has worked great!
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If you have not tried the XLA Hookkeeper from Kigan give them a try. I picked up a couple of dozen from Karen at Bingham Enterprises and everyone of my customers that sees them wants one on their rod. I have even switched out a couple of rods for clients after they saw them. They work great for drop-shot, worm or crankbait rods. Kigan has a winner there!
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Ted Meehan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Buzz: I am using ProKote and I am very happy with > it but had trouble with the gold Metallic thread. Ditto on the ProKote. I love the working time and clarity....bubble free! I usually apply one to two coats of Perma Gloss and then a couple of coats of the ProKote and the wraps look fantastic. I also use met
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Will, I built myself a Drop Shot rod about a year ago to try them out for myself. I typically use 5 - 6 lb. test on the rod. I was impressed with them from very first cast. I first saw the guides at the ICAST Show in Las Vegas a couple of years ago. At that time I thought to myself "what a gimmick". How wrong I was! They are great... cast further, the line seems to be much more
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I use mostly metallic with ProKote medium build exclusively. I first apply two coats of Perma Gloss waiting about an hour between coats. The Perma Gloss helps remove the air trapped in the wraps around the guide foot. I let it dry over night them apply one or possible two coats of ProKote. The finish comes out beautiful. I use two coats of ProKote on my Bass rods and only one coat on the lighte
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ...and there are two new rings on the way... Jim, You got my curiosity go big time. What are the two new rings?
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Don't Ya Just Hate That!
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'Can't Wait!
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's a good point. Remember that the line > doesn't necessarily run through the center of the > guide ring. On a rod spiraled to the right, the > line will run against the right hand side of the > butt guide, so put that on your centerline or 0 > axis if you're worried about line stacking heav
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Zachary, Something to think about: I have found that placing the butt guide about 5 degrees to the opposite side of the spiral wrap keeps the line from stacking up on the spool. I usually place the butt guide with the inside edge of the guide / line on the zero line, then start the spiral around the blank. This places the butt guide in +/- 5 degrees to the opposite side of the spiral. That
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Bill, Thanks for the info. I used Weldwood Contact Cement when I glued up the pie shape pieces. I left the O.D. a little large than the EVA grip and thought it would sand down flush with the grip. No such luck. I thought of getting some colored EVA form from Billy when I do it again. Anyone want the color strips that I have?!
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Rick, For What It's Worth: I am not familiar with the porker chip issue; but I did buy the colored EVA form strips from Mudhole and was disappointed. I was building a Fuchsia Metallic St Croix rod for a friend's wife and needed the pink and purple strips. The EVA form strips are much more rubbery, (if that is a word), and do not sand very well at all! After cutting multiple layers of the st
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I built a Rainshadow RX 8 822.5 drop shot rod for my bass club secretary for all he'd done over the years for the club. Not long after giving him the rod, he stepped on it while it was laying on the deck of his boat. He loved the rod so much, he called me and asked me what kind of warranty there was for boo boo's. I told him they don't warrantee "boo boo's" and "brain fades&quo
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Julian, Go with the 36" as mentioned above. My work bench used to be 36" high, until my wife talked me into cutting off the legs. She didn't like the work bench showing through the garage window. I cut it off as requested. 'Have not like the work bench as well ever since! Go with the 36" or with what Tom suggested: "have the center of the chuck the height as your elbow when
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Charles, You might try sending an e-mail to Jim Ising at Anglers Resource, e-mail address: jising@anglersresource.net He can probably tell you the status of their shipments from Japan. They have been very forth coming with me in the past. Hopefully Jim isn't ups
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We all wish it would come every month. That would be Heaven!
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Mike, For what it's worth, I just finished spraying an ocean jig rod I am building for a friend. I painted the rod with Tamiya RC car body paint in a spray can. Then I sprayed the rod with two part automotive clear coat and it came out great. I used a Paasche two phase air brush with the #3 tip, (largest), and it puts out a large enough cone to cover the rod fine. As noted above, they do run out
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