> Any one have any picutres or plans for a mortising > jig. I have my router monted in a table so I was > thinking about some sort of carage. Or, building > a box over my lath and mortice with a pin rounter > turning the blank using an index pin. > > Any pictures would be great. Not plans exactly but if you already have a table all you need is a couple of blocks o
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That is some real nice info there ... I've wondered for a while what rpm's my lathes are really turning. I'm going to attempt to use a small bike odometer to register rpm's so I can try for consistency in what I do.
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Lots of possibilities here ... very nice
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Mike Barkley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > `Great article although it says that up to 20% of > theBirch trees that have bark harvested will die > and it affects the quality of the lumber from that > tree I think the issue is care here in how one goes about harvesting. I was in the mistaken group who thought that taking any bark off the liv
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William Bartlett Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > According to the RodMaker article, You never want > to harvest bark from standing living trees, it'll > kill them. Go out in the woods or look around for > some that have been blown over to harvest from. Actually this isn't true according to a local birch bark canoe manufacture. Also this a
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Tony Dowson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I want to make a 3 buff buffing system for my mini > lathe and was wondering if any others out there > have made similar setups,and if so,how they went > about putting it all together? Tom, you can make one easy enough. You can use 1/2" allthread rod, some 8" flannel buffing wheels from
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I'd be interested in getting this ... thanks
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this came out very nice. I have some diamonite I'll have to try this.
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Those that are using the single foot guide for the tip is it the same size as the rest of the running guides?
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Thanks for the suggestions but under wrapping isn't an option for this 2wt blank. Will try the GB Candy Apple without cp and see how it looks.
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I have a customer who wants candy apple red wraps to match his Ford truck. Anyone have a suggestion for thread?
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Since I'm don't have enough alconites for this new lamiglas 9' 6wt project I been thinking about using the Baston "F" guides. Never used a taming guide and am looking for some input as to what size tamer guides I need. Oh, as an after thought, I'm wanting to use single foot guides for the strippers and do you happen to know which guide best fits that agenda? Normally I'd use
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>I am looking to purchase a good lathe to turn some wood and acrylic handles. Boy did you open a can of worms <G> This is really a subjective subject and you will find the lathe-specific-faithfuls coming up out of their wood chips to support their favorite lathe of the month club. That being said, I'll throw in my biased 2 cents into the mix. For me, since money is the issue
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Randy Parpart (Putter) Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Volume 10, issue 1 is in the mail and some have > received it already (Ken Preston for one). Got mine 2 days ago, but I live in the NW so others may have gotten them before me
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Thanks for the tips. I'll try the sharpie trick first and if I had a teenage daughter I'd just steal her black fingernail polish ....
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I've finished shaping the feet and was wondering what paint or finish to make it all black agin as I'm going to use silk without CP and the feet will show through.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Throw them away - you'll not use them again. At > least not on grips. OK, howabout a hint ... do I need to start saving pennies for a new tool or three?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > October 28th. 5 weeks .... I can just stack things up <G>
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>When the article "hits" it will forever change the way rod builders ream their grip bores. How long do I have to wait for the magazine to hit the post office? Got a few grips turned and a few blanks waiting <G>
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Guys ... thanks for all the kind words. I almost didn't post the pic because I'm not that much of a craftsman and all I had was my razr phone to take pics with as the batteries in my fuji were dead. Mike, it's not too soft. I expect it to be a lot tougher than I first realized. I have a casting rod I'm supossed to make for a friend and as soon as I figure out what I need as far as hardwa
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In case anyone is interested I posted a pic of a grip that I made from the bark of Red fir. You can tell by looking at the filter in the background how much dust sanded off as it was white.
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7 1/2 or 8" ... can't remember at the moment. Spent the day on the river and my mind is cluttered with Cutts ...
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Since I've only done fly rod grips I don't know. When I go home tonight I'll take a pic and send it your way as I've got a grip I'm doing now made of Red Fir bark rings and you can see there's a lot of room.
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I have one ... got it on special from menard's for $59 and I believe the chuck I got was this one from I use Andy's mandrels so no problem there. It is M2 because I use a drill chuck in the TS. It also comes with a live center and a few other goodies.
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Chuck Mills Wrote: > Ron, I had nothing but trouble with a hole saw. > The bark tears easily. OK ... haven't tried it on birch bark yet. I've been making rings out of western cedar (beauty bark).
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Chuck Mills Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 1 1/2" equals a lot of sanding! Get a 1 3/8" hole saw (Ace, Lowes or Home Depot). Remember that it is the outside diameter that is measured for the hole. With a 1 3/'8" hole saw that makes a 1 1/4" ring.
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In reading a past Rodmakers I saw an article about using these 1" balls for a butt cap and thought I'd do that. After trips to Walmart, PetCo and Toy's R Us I cam up empty. Anyone know where to find them?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes, althought here are different types and heat > ranges for those hot melt adhesives. > > Now for glueing up our handles and reel seats, > you'd want to stick with an epoxy. Ralph is > talking about the ferrules used on most bamboo > rods. Not the standard seats and grips which we >
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Ralph O'Quinn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >Of the readily available technologies available > to the average rod builder the hot melts are > probably the best choice for this job as they >will stay bonded longer than the epoxies. By hot melts are you referring to the glue sticks my wife uses in her hot glue gun?
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Stan Grace Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have had good success with JB Weld for other > purposes but I would use Rod Bond for the ferrule > if I had it available. Thanks Stan ... problem is I don't have any rod bond handy as most of my stuff is in storage. I do have some 20 minute epoxy and the JB Weld. Maybe I should just order some ...
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