When I started I got a starter kit, came with a little book and it said each rod has about 70 yards of thread on it. I've found out that it takes way less than that, or way more depending on what your building. Fly rods are pretty simple, Like george, I'd buy two spools of 100 yards, or get a pro spool and have enough thread to wrap for days.
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Yes Sir, the 3s70mf-f is the rod your looking for. but it's fuchsia metallic, so a touch on the purple side, but certainly pink.
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Does it have a bunch of twist in the line?
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So as a gift I did not put a reciept in the tube, nor did I even generate one. I'm really only interested in getting payment for the parts so I can build a new rod. I was going to send them links to all the parts and prices on mudhole since that's where I received all the parts other than the blank.
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I've got statements from the postmaster in Pine who said he could not have packed that rod better.....and the rod only went 104 miles(I'm sure it went 150 or so once they sent it to Denver for processing and back out to Pine, CO. Here's to hoping that this goes smoothly enough.
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Shouldn't be too hard then, I insured for the cost of parts and shipping of parts, and shipping to a friend. It was a surprise gift that I paid for.
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So, I've shipped a few and have never had problems, and I've always purchased insurance in the amount to cover the cost of replacing all the parts, shipping of parts, and shipping of the finished rod. So I sent a rod out last Wednesday to learn today that It arrived in the post office in Pine, CO broken in two. A 1.5" PVC tube mind you with a 10' 2pc 8wt rod. I put the insurance amount at
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I'm still searching for a good blank, I will have to try the Blank dave listed. I did order a SP-LB82 from mudhole today on sale, will try it out and see how it goes. I still want a composite blank or a solid carbon blank.
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I'd stick with 3cc's like tom said. I've tested with 2cc's each part myself. Some products take well to it, other products not so much and I stick with 3 parts each there.
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You sure can.. I made one rod with one bumper guide that way and all the rest have had two transition guides.
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Jim hit the nail on the head, you can buy skeleton pieces to do just that, but there is nothing wrong with cutting one up yourself either.
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The threads didn't move, other than the gutterman, they all bellied out off the wrap surface like they just stretched out....I didn't have problems with the wrap moving, I CP'd it and let it set and came back to bellied out threads.....I'll still finish over them, but it's for sure a learned lesson.
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Wrapped up my second decorative cross wrap Wednesday night into thursday. I used purple pearl and white pearl gutterman metallic thread along with Gudbrod HT metallic. When I put CP on the wrap to lock it all in place when I was done, the gutterman thread expanded and lumped up loose in between my other threads and it now looks a little off......@#$%&, but just as a warning to others. Any Dec
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Are trying to cut down the seat to save weight, then split it down the middle and re-glue it so that you don't have to remove the handle or guides to get it done?
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I'm with Phil, that's a top tip for any fly guy, attach the fly to the stripper and loop the line around the reel. When you're ready to go, unloop the line from behind the reel and tap the rod, the fly will fall off and you'll be casting. Impresses friends as well. Why don't you look for a hole punch kit for clothing laces. Just don't crimp it on, it'll have about a 1/4in" long shaf
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The Batson ISWB945 will do the job for sure, but I caution you not to build this rod if you don't intend on a minimum of 2 oz baits. I had a difficult time loading this rod with less than 2 oz. I also just completed a Phenix USB-711MH-B and if you had not said 6oz, this would be my choice, it loads on al ittle less bait than the batson. Both rods came out to the same build weight, right under
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Does anyone have any experience with blank development, from a customer side of things. How would a person go about getting a custom blank developed. Who would you contact, and if you have experience with this, are you looking at a cost in the hundreds/thousands/tens of thousands for development before picking a model to bulk order?
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Works well and looks good, can be easily trimmed down to size if they are too close together. Two that I built using them.
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Have seen previous threads saying October/November timeframe, has anyone else seen anything or know where to get them at?
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The results being that the check was too large and the seat nut would not slide over it to allow for more seat to be cut down.....and I found that rubber winding checks weigh a lot less, so when weight matters, I will always not use them and go with rubber/vinyl checks.
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Good luck with the winding checks, larger blanks I've tried this on have not yielded good results, and the checks themselves do not save weight, they are rather heavy to use on a rod that you are cutting the threads on the seat to save weight on.
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I'd find a fabric store and pick up a a single same color of each brand, throw down a centimeter wrap on the butt section where the handle will be covering the blank when you build it and test each one. I put down wraps next to each other and use one brush width to apply CP to half of each wrap, then finish over it to see which brands will work with finish, and which will work with CP and finish
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You're the man Ron! 48" Medium ice blank, I was going order some mag bass blanks and cut them down to get 40" ice rods, but this may well be a much less expensive alternative.
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I'm still on the hunt for a rod that will make a nice 40" heavy lake trout rod, I'm probably going to end up purchasing a 6'6" rx7 mag bass rod and end up cutting the butt off it, and then using some of the butt end to build the handle on, then arbor the blank in that handle section. The guys I have asking are looking for fish in the 20+ pound range. I would use fiberglass but they ar
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Sounds like you got it. I used Pac Bay Minima fly guides on my 8wt based upon the recommendation of folks not necessarily affiliated with Pac Bay, and the price was right.
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Bill, there's no finish over the thread, I get what your saying, but the thread is the important part, its the thread that is grippy, I guess if that's how you put it, or it's the outter surface.
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I'll get a pic from one of the LTX rods in question and I'll see if there is anything I can come up with, I'm sure I can wrap it, but what keeps those threads in place is beyond me, maybe a real light coating of epoxy, the thread is still thread on the grip side of things.
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Yeah, those grips are on the z-bones.....I'm refering to the older LTX rods, I'll maybe do some playing and see what I can't come up with, I'm just worried about the thread moving.
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No, it's not cord, but I've thought about that too.
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I cannot seem to find any information on a grip that is wrapped over with thread, similar to the Kistler LTX's. Has anyone done this in the past? Or have any pictures of this?
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