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Current Page: 5 of 16
Results 121 - 150 of 466
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I've spoted a few box turtles in my yard but still no new Rodmaker issue. How long does it take for a turtle to make 145 miles from High Point to Flat Rock? Maybe it is a race between a tortoise and a snai! A rabbit would have mad it two days ago. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I use a scaspel or a shoe knife, but I'm sure the thread would work too. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I have used cork dust mixed with Titebond III and the plastic wood as Duane stated. Both work. I have had the same problem you describe. After filling the voids. I sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I have used the old 811, Diamondite, and the America Tackle. I think the American Tackle penatrats better with higher %solids and more surfactants (that lower the surface tension of the liquid), than the Diamondite. My first choice is the old 811, but when I run out, I am probably going to the American Tackle, unless Gudebrod goes back to its orginal formulation. I have heard too many bad thi
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
Gudebrod CP is going through a bunch of reformulations. If it is the old formulation, addition of denatured alcohol (small amount) wil help with the lumps. If it is the new stuff I have no idea how to fix the problem! I don't think the new CP is as good as the original formulation! I think Gudebrode maybe trying to cut cost! Ed Smith Flat Rock, NC
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
Chris, My reaction is on a 7 foot light action rod, I don't have a "choker" guide. I am not familiar with the Penn 5500, but I use Shimano 1000 series and Mitchell 308/408. I remove the spool, tie a peice of mono to the center spindal of the reel with five or six guides threaded through the mono. I tie the other end of the mono to the reel tip and then play around with the spacing
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I agree with Chris! When blanks are shipped in PVC tubes, I have never had a problem with any of the sponsors of this site. Cardboard tubes, and particularlly DHL, are batting 1000 in damaged or broken (2 broken rods). I just don't buy blanks from this sponsor anymore even though they did refund my money. I think the major problem occurs in shipping not defects! Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I use the IP 840 alot with 4 lb line. Best ultra light for the money. On the first cast with the first IP 840I built, I caught a 4lb 10 oz Largemouth. (I got a picture to prove it too!) Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
A heat gun works nicely if it has been put on with these recent tip top adhesives. I had an experience with an old solid fiber glass rod that gentle heat would not do. I finally used a butane tourch and with all the pulling and tugging it finally Exploded! I conclude it all depends on the age of the tip adhesive. Beware of these old rods when replacing the tip. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
James, My experience with Ron and Maggi has always been first class plus. My only regret is that I am too far away from the White River Arkansas Trout fishing that I don't get there enough. Has anyone discovered trout fishing better than the White River Arkansas?? Any rodbuilder that goes anywhere near Mtn. Home should pay them a visit. One problem-Ron is always gone fishing!! Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I do most of mine similar to the way Mike Shelden suggest. If you don't build a lot of rods and don't want to get fancy then the 2.3 rpm would be fine. What you don't want "globs" to form. I have seen Micke Barley's work and it is beautiful. You just need a means to keep the epoxy moving. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I am not sure what vodoo math, calculus, or differial equations Bill is tthinking about but what I do know is, that many vendors at the show donate items for the reception. (including Rodbuilder Magazine) I do remember who these people are when it comes to me making a decision on who to buy my rodbuilding materials from. Same thing goes as per sponsors of this web site. I can say that I have
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
You do not need epoxy!! Just tighten the block down real good. Do not oversize the hole by more than 1/64 of an inch. (This depends on the type of wood you are turning) Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
My experience with EVA and Hypolon is best to use Contact or rubber cement!! (Both are the same animal) Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I use rubber cement (aka contact cement) for EVA and Hypalon. For all other applications I use epoxy, Gorrilla glue, or Titebond III depending on the application. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
Karry, I think that is the safe way to do it. I hope others will learn from mistakes like Chris and I experienced and not run the risk of getting seriously injured. (or Killed) I don't think they knew about hot melt 50 years ago. KISS - just saw it off! Thanks to all. Ed
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
My mother past away back in January and we had to "clean out the house." I found the first rod I every had. It was a solid fiberglass rod that I remember as so sensitive I could feel the gils close on a fish at two feet. It was in bad shape! I removed all the old thread and guides. I then proceeded to remove the tip. I tried gentle heat without success. I then heated the tip with
Forum: rodboard
16 years ago
Edward D. Smith
No, You don't have to, but I do it anyway for these two reasons: 1) If you ever have to remove the wrap, it comes off much easier if the thread has CP and 2) I think it makes the finish stand up on the thread better to give it a nicer appearance IMO. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
To get my two cents worth in: I have used one coat of American Tackle CP followed by two coats of Gudebrod. The American Tackle CP seems to penatrate the thread better because it is loaded with a ureathane dispersion and surfactants that lower the surface tension. The Swifty, U-40, and several others are very similar with lower percent solids and surfactants. (These could be clasified as &quo
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
Ellis, Insted of the sandpaper, I use 00 steel wool to buff before I apply the last coat. (I suspect a very fine (>1000 grid) would do the same thing) One added comment-the thinner the last coat the better the appearance. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
Permagloss is a polymeric ureathane/cyanoacrylate. I have used it on wood but IMO Birchwood-Casey Truoil gunstock finish to be far superior on wood. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
Not just carrots, brocolli, bean strings, etc. They will try asparagus too! Bill Stevens there will probably let you chose your material. The menu is varied. I like the idea of the buckyball idea the best. It will be called C60 and be made from Rice (University). Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
The terms Polyester and Acrylic are extremely broad chemical terms. With acrylics only acryic acid linkage is common to all acrylics. You can almost call latex an acrylic. Polyester only contains a terphlate linkage. All these things can be crosslinked with everything else under the shinning sun. All these things react with UV generally going to a more yellow color and become more brittle.
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I have drilled them out with metal bits but you have to keep them straight. (Easier said than done.-I have messed up a few in this learning process) If I drill at 3/8 inch I can put it on a 5/16 butt. Wall thickness is also a big consideration using this method. Hapalon is easier than EVA. I've always glued them on with rubber cement with no problem. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I'm like Larry, but it al depends on what size skeletons you are going to use. I use a center finder and drill center hole then put the wood on a mandrel. Lamar and Penn State industries sell these. I like the Lamar's the best because they are heaveier. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I like the Sorby tools the best. They seem to retain their sharpness even on tough wood like walnut, maple, etc. Beware of Delta tools which they claim are made by Sorby. They are not as good as the Sorby's. Good lathe tools are not cheap but you get much better quality tools by paying the premium price and in the long run, will last much longer and be easier to use. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I like the Tru-oil best. Walmart no longer carries it here. The last bottle I got was at Bass Pro Shops. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I have used both the TAPS and the Testors. They both are fine. In addition I have used these powders for thermally coloring jigs. The are all great. I think Ken Preston has the most experience with these pigments for coloring rods. Ed Smith
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
Mike, So many of your ideas/help have had a great infulence on many of the things that I use, I just cannot thank you enough. While we have not always agreed 100% your ideas have been 100% helpful. I don't think I have ever talked to you withlout coming away learning something! You are a Great Teacher of the Craft! We can enjoy Putters beer, since he will not be in HP in 2008 and we can
Forum: rodboard
17 years ago
Edward D. Smith
I am using 40 wt. polyneon (Polyester). I think I am going to hand wrap it the next time. Indeed it is beautiful threat and the variety of colors are numerous.. I am burnishing with thumb nail, Gudebrod nylon burnishing tool, or needle pick (as a last resort). Billy, I did see you working with that metal tool in HP. Swampland had some, but when I went by their booth no one was their to ta
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 5 of 16

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