I just did a base wrap with lime green metalic, and black metalic. I can't figure out how to get the stripes to form in this wrap. Yes Tom I have read the article several times. I have burnished, I have packed, I keep getting a straight 2 colored wrap. I give up. I might try it again when I can see the wrap being done in person or on video.
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The experiment failed. I think part of it was that I didn't have enough tension on the base threads, and they wouldn't hold their position when I did the burnishing. I will give it another try in the next day or two with a 2 color base and more tension on the thread.
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Phil: I am just giving this a try. I have never seen a triger wrap in person, and figured this was the best way to figure them out. All 3 of the base threads are metalic. I will do part of the test wrap in a regular dark blue thread and part of it in black just to see how it looks.
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I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but I am using an old piece of 5wt fly rod blank for this test wrap. This blank measures .31" diam. This has been a day of firsts for me. First time I have tried a tager wrap. First time I have run 3 threads at the same time. First time I have used my power wrapper to run thread and finish. First time I have used the caps that fit into the
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I am trying my first tiger wrap. I backed way off of the tension on my tread. I am using Red, White, and Blue metalic size A thread for the base wrap. I have burnished the heck out of this, going one way, turning the blank 1/4 turn, and burninshing the other way. I am not seeing the movement that I see in a lot of the other wraps. Am I doing something wrong, or am I just looking to hard for
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Mike: Sorry about that. I was simply following a Goggle search for "Howald Process Bottle Blank", and since one of the items listed was from Mudhole, I posted it. Corkey; I guess you are back to square one.
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Corky: When you google Howald Process Bottle Blank, the Ugly Stik blank comes up. Try this link: .I have never used the Ugly Stik blanks so I don't know if they all use this process or not. You might have to download the catalog, and see which blanks use this process.
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I know that you guys are working way above my level, and there probably isn't anyway I can help. I am a medically retired Firefighter/EMT, and can't wait to see pictures of this rod. There were 343 Firefighters, 60 Police Officers, and 8 private service Medics that gave their lives in the service of others on 9/11. I am on board even if it is just buying a spool of thread.
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Flitz should clean the green off, and polish the metal as well. This is a paste product, but is very fine grit. I have used it to remove rust from blued guns. You didn't say why the wooden grips need to be removed. Are they loose, damaged, or just need to be refinished?
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I am looking for ideas for a Red, White, and Blue themed rod. I can usually see in my mind how a rod will turn out when I am just using 2 colors. For some reason, I can not picture these all together. I want to use Metalic Red, White, and Blue thread, and then a contrasting thread to finish the wrap. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Pictures would really be appriciated.
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I use the Elmer's Golden Oak filler. I wet my finger with water, before I sqeeze some of the filler on it. This thins the filler a little as you are wipeing it on the grip, and seems to do a better job of filling the cork. I try to fill the voids until they are just level with the surrounding cork once it is dry. a little light sanding, or even scuffing with the 3M pad, and it is ready for a
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Just to be on the safe side, wrap a wet rag around the portion of the reel seat behind the hood, and the rod blank in front of the seat. The reel seat is aluminum, and might conduct heat where you don't want it. I have started to use old credit cards etc,. to scrape this stuff off. They are harder then a finger nail, and more forgiving then a razor blade.
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Take a look at the Strubel fly reel seats. They have removable fighting butts for most of their reel seats as an addition. The last couple of fly rods I have built I have used both the Snake Brand snake guides, or the Hopkins & Holloway single foot guides. The Snake Brand guides take little or no guide foot prep. I actually prefer the H&H single foot guides.
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Dean: The old guys showed me 2 different solutions for stuck metal ferrules. One was to put the rod behind your legs, grab the rod, and use your knees to pull the sections apart. When this didn't work, it took 2 people. One would grab the rod above and below the ferrule, and the other would grab the first ones hands and both would pull. Today I keep a number of rubber turniquets around. The
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Dave: I just returned home from my Dad's place. All of the Foul Proof guides he has are heavy wire, and large. I am sure they were for a deep sea rod. Let me know how the project turns out. I have 2 old Sila Flex rods that need some attention.
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Dave: I just returned home from my Dad's place. All of the Foul Proof guides he has are heavy wire, and large. I am sure they were for a deep sea rod. Let me know how the project turns out. I have 2 old Sila Flex rods that need some attention.
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They were probably Foul-Proof guides. Let me know what sizes. I located some at my Dad's awhile back. Schneiders Rods may have some also.
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Tom: You said this was a $400 custom rod, but didn't say what type of rod, or who made the blank. You also didn't say how much use the rod had after the owner glued the drill bit in the tip. Is this a one piece rod or multi piece? What caused the break in the first place? For me, the simplest and best repair for a multi piece name brand blank is: get a replacement section for the rod, and wr
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John: I agree with you. I started casting a spinning rod when I was 3 years old. My Dad had me casting in sportsmans shows in So. CaL That was 56 years ago. Good equipment, and good instruction. You can have the best of the best rods, and without good instruction on how to use it, you might as well have a $15.00 Shakespeare. Buy a $15.00 Shakespeare and then get good instruction on how to
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I agree with the rest. I have a power wrapper and still wrap by hand. My wrapper has a dryer motor on it. I use it, but they are not neccessary. Some of the best finishes I have done was by turning the rod by hand while it dried.
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I have a gut feeling on what the answers to these questions will be, but here goes. I am building a Batson SB 720-4 blank. I am using Fuji YAG/LAG type guides.The reel I am using has a spool face of 36mm. Doing the math, this places the choker guide at 38 1/4" from the reel face, or 22" from the tip top. I have 4 Fuji LAG size 4 guides to space from the tip top to 22". I now h
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Ted: Rub some white chalk, Crayon, or China White on the male end of the ferrel. Put the 2 pieces together, and just before they get tight, twist the top half of the rod, Take them apart, and look for where the "white" is rubbed off of the blank. If the white is rubbed off of the top of the male end, you can trim the male end a little at a time until it fits. If the white is rubb
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I just got the parts for my new rod. This will be my first split rear grip build on a spinning rod. I am use to getting the long cork rear grip with the glue in plug. Ream it to fit the blank, glue it down, and then glue in the plug. I was surprized to get a fighting butt that is blind drilled (no plug). What is the acceptable method for fitting these things to the blank? I assume that you
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I eyeball everything also, but as my eyes get older I have thought about getting or making a center finder like the one Barry Thomas has. There was an article on makeing one of these in RodMaker Vol. 12-5.
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I am going to build a Batson 720-4 rod for myself. I have already decided that it will have a split rear grip, and the new concept guide set up. This will be a spinning rod build. I want this to be a Red, White, and Blue themed rod. I have never done a Tiger wrap, or a weave. I really don't want to get into weaving just yet. I am looking for suggestions on Red, White, and Blue themed rods.
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Trung: The Flexcoat brushes are fairly inexpensive, and intended for "use them once, and throw them away" type use. Where do you store them while they are drying? The next question is what type soap do you use when you wash your hands? There are a lot soaps out there that have moisturizers (olis) in them. I use a cheap dish washing soap. It is designed to cut oil and grease. I
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Trung: I think David is right. Something is contaminated. This could be something on your hands, to arisol oil from cooking or furniture polish.. Some threads that are used in sewing have a lubricant on them. I would start looking for where the oil is coming from. Wipe down all of your tools with alcohol including razor blades. One thing you can try if you get fisheyes again is to let yo
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Russell: I am old, blind, and have paws instead of hands. When I have to hold these small guides to dress the foot, I use small machine bolts with flat washers and a nut. I have had too many dremel tool manicures trying to hold even size 8 giudes by hand.
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David: I am already using tall guides with the Fuji CYAGS. I built one of these blanks before, and had to go to a Fuji CYAG 25 just to get the guide to fit into the 18" to 22" inch range from the straight line to the choker guide. What Fuji guide would you use that is size 16, and extra tall so that it fits this build? I really don't want to sound like a newb, I am trying to learn n
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Mike S.: When you go to a size 16 rear guide, where are you placing it? Do you go with a very tall guide so that it fits in the 18" to 22" range from the face of the reel, or do you just fit a tall guide where it touches the line between the center of the spool, and the top of the choker guide?
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