I am trying my first tiger wrap. I backed way off of the tension on my tread. I am using Red, White, and Blue metalic size A thread for the base wrap. I have burnished the heck out of this, going one way, turning the blank 1/4 turn, and burninshing the other way. I am not seeing the movement that I see in a lot of the other wraps. Am I doing something wrong, or am I just looking to hard for the movement?

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

You won't see much movement until the top color is added.

Burnish like this----)))))((((())))))-((((((-)))))))-((((())))). Then turn 1/4 and try to do the opposite. I normally burnish different lengths of about 1-2 inches either together or apart. As you spin the blank the burnished wrap should appear wavy. I'm sure yours will look fine, but burnishing in different directions will yield a wicked design. Check out the photo section for the maroon and white I just recently did. I've only done three colors once and wasn't happy with the finished look, but it may have been the way I did it. It's hard for me to control 3 threads also.

Read the articles in the online library here - I'm not sure you quite understand how the effect is accomplished.

............

I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but I am using an old piece of 5wt fly rod blank for this test wrap. This blank measures .31" diam. This has been a day of firsts for me. First time I have tried a tager wrap. First time I have run 3 threads at the same time. First time I have used my power wrapper to run thread and finish. First time I have used the caps that fit into the finish bottles, and seal on the syringes. You guys and gal's are going to drag me kicking and screaming into the new way of building fishing rods. Thanks for teaching an old dog new tricks.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/18/2011 06:56PM by Tom Kirkman.

Interesting combination of threads. Are all three of the base colors metallic? Not sure what one would expect to achieve by using three colors, not the regular two high contrast recommended. Would love to see the finished product.

Phil:

I am just giving this a try. I have never seen a triger wrap in person, and figured this was the best way to figure them out. All 3 of the base threads are metalic. I will do part of the test wrap in a regular dark blue thread and part of it in black just to see how it looks.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

Mike, I have had the best luck with Madeira thread and white NCP size A thread on bottom. Only two threads. And Madeira and a size A sac thread. I really think the slight size difference in the Madeira and NCP gave it awesome movement. Using white NCP also shows up well.

The experiment failed. I think part of it was that I didn't have enough tension on the base threads, and they wouldn't hold their position when I did the burnishing. I will give it another try in the next day or two with a 2 color base and more tension on the thread.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

I also just finished my first tiger wrap last weekend. After a lot of research on this site and others, I went with the recomended "black and white" for the base wrap. I did a basic ))))))))))))), 1/8th turn, (((((((((((((((((((, 1/8th turn, etc for the burnishing. I applied two coats of finish with a day of drying time between. When I did my top wrap, I just used the main color I wanted, in this case chartruese green, and my sacrificial thread. The key I noted here is that the wraps need to be perfect! I know because I unwrapped and rewrapped a couple times. You don't want to have to burnish anything (in my opinion) during this phase as it seems to screw everything up. After trying my patients a bit, I finally did a top wrap that was acceptable (for the first time... and it's not one I'm selling). At this point I carefully removed the sacrificial thread and tied everything off with a metalic purple, adding a spiral of metalic purple on top of my top thread. I then did my top finish. One thing I had trouble with at this point was bubbles in the finish. Not from when I mixed, but from when I applied and worked it. It seems that with the ridges created by having one thread with a space inbetween, it is very easy to form bubles. I got a lot of them out, but not all. Anybody have tips on the bubble issue?

Anyway, I hope this may help you with yours. My thread was all NCP size A. I will try Brandon's burnish technique on my next one.

Mike, I have found it easier to get a desired outcome with NCP size D thread for the wraps. The metallic thread had a coating on it and will not hold a burnish like NCP will. That and the fact that the NCP will press down and flatten out makes for much better contrast. The key to the bottom wrap is they need to be uneven, no specific pattern just knock them around some. I often spin the rod wrapper and burnish the thread while it is slowly turning. Where your real holographic shift comes from is the amount of coats between wraps. If you have time 3 or 4 coats of high build will yield some great results. Two words for the top wrap, straight and even, take your time with this and if you need to walk away for a few do so. :) The primary color of the wrap will come from your top thread and that choice is much more important than the bottom ones.

This is Orange over NCP Black and White:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is Metallic Blue over NCP Black and White:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is Florescent Pink over NCP Black and White:
[www.rodbuilding.org]
All these under wraps were the same thread just to give you an idea on the top thread influence. I am still finishing up the Pink one but I took a pic just to show you the difference.

Shane, try a minimal amount of heat and the bubbles and they should release, I usually use Flex Coat high Build and hit it lightly with a torch to even it out and let the bubbles release. It takes very very little heat to release these and if you get it too hot the epoxy will boil and you will not be able to get those out.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/21/2011 06:40PM by Scott Brown.

I just did a base wrap with lime green metalic, and black metalic. I can't figure out how to get the stripes to form in this wrap. Yes Tom I have read the article several times. I have burnished, I have packed, I keep getting a straight 2 colored wrap. I give up. I might try it again when I can see the wrap being done in person or on video.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

Are you making sure to wrap the top threads in the opposite direction from the bottom threads?

Rich: Yes, I wrapped the first try in the opposite direction. The big problem is that I am not able to get the stripes to form in the base wrap (like the pictures of the base warp shown in the Rodmaker article). I may be trying to do this on a blank that is just too small in Diam. for it to work. I am sure there is something I am missing, and will not understand until I see the wrap done in person, or see it on video. Thanks for all the help everyone has tried to give me.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho