I believe part of the problem which Denis is experiencing is due to his writing style, which I must admit is quite difficult for me to easily follow. I have seen Tom state many times that the addition of components will indeed change rod power and speed. The AA rating is not going to change because as has stated, the weight is applied to the tip, not through the guides. So within the confines
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I believe part of the problem which Denis is experiencing is due to his writing style, which I must admit is quite difficult for me to easily follow. I have seen Tom state many times that the addition of components will indeed change rod power and speed. The AA rating is not going to change because as has stated, the weight is applied to the tip, not through the guides. So within the confines
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I am able to successfully compare blanks even from different classes and categories. I find that the numbers are still relative regardless of blank or rod category. I also find that taking the measurements is fun!
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Bravo! A most constructive use of the system. My use of the CCS parallels your own.
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I would like to play a bit of \"devil\'s advocate\" with Dennis if he might humor me. Most catalogs give a weight for the blank. But what about after the rod is built? That weight will surely be different, will it not? What about the weight of a finished rod... we add a reel which changes the weight. If we take it fishing we may get it wet. That will also change the original weight
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Permit me to respond to Mr. Feazel because I think I can help him a bit. \\\"Although my previous post may have been mis-leading, it was my intent to compare two blanks at multiple points, not to compare blank \\\'A\\\' and \\\'B\\\' at different points. Yes, the blanks will reveal a different set of numbers at 1/2 than at 1/3 but what I am looking for is proof that each blank will exhibi
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Because I am a simple person the best I can do is a simple reply! There is one question that some have asked and I have developed what I feel is an equally simple answer. When someone asks me where the CCS deflection standard came from, I tell them... Dr Hanneman got it from the same shop that supplied another bloke with the length for the centimeter (or inch-whatever your case may be). They a
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\"Just as a hammer will indeed pound a nail, it still won\'t tell you what type or length nail to use, or where to place it. You have to do that.\" Well put! No system can tell you beforehand how long a blank will be if you cut it or extend it. No system can tell you beforehand how much your blank will weigh after you add a handle and guides to it. No system can tell you if
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Thank you.
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I need to get some small, round brushes for use on very small and delicate wraps which I intend to coat with Permagloss. Before I buy a bulk package of the Flex Coat variety, I want to confirm that the hot solvent in PG will not eat the plastic bristles these brushes employ. Any comments from personal experience would be much appreciated.
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My Permagloss is thickening in the bottle just a tad. Not solidified mind you, but thicker than it was two months ago. Would adding a few drops of Xylene reduce the working consistency back to original? I suppose I could just give it a go and see what happens, but would hate to ruin this large bottle if anyone has done it and knows it not to be a keen idea.
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They are the same on a steady pull. The difference will be the diameter. 10lb braid will be much smaller than 10lb mono will be. Diameter for diameter the braid will be stronger than the mono. One thing that I have noticed is that due to not having as much stretch, on an impact the braid will break at less than the mono will.
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Use of SF guides on surf rods is becoming more popular. I would advise the Forhan lock wrap to solidify the guides in place. This makes it almost impossible to knock one out. I would limit the use of SF guides to only light surf rods though, and move to lower frame casting type guides for the choke and running guide on mid to heavy surf rods.
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Great reel seats! Make sure to get the model with the built in nylon hood liners. You will have to wrap it onto something solid. Cord or cork or the blank itself. But you will like it. Very sturdy and holds the reel extremely well.
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Interesting morning spent on testing a new St. Croix 4S66MLF. First, I took an hour to arrange the best Cone Of Flight system I could. With 1/4 of an ounce, squarely in the middle of the suggested weight range, with 8 pound mono my best COF set up could hit 105' give or take a few feet either way. This was with about twenty-five casts per guide set up. I settled on this one as my control group.
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When I was young and foolish I once fitted an EVA grip to a fly rod. I found that the critical interplay between the casting hand's fingers were absorbed by the slightly squishy foam grip and resulted in poor casting and great fatigue at the end of the day. I removed the grip and replaced with it with a cork grip and found all was well. I have enjoyed the rod ever since that silly foray into the
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Looks good!
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There is nothing wrong with the finish. My observation was that the coloration of the hardener had not changed over the course of many months, until I opened the bottle and exposed it to the air.
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A newcomer to the spiral systems, I ran into the Simple Spiral article firsthand and have used it a few times. I like it. Works well and is easy to set up. I found the article easy to read and understand but there is some confusion. A builder I ran into yesterday was showing me a new rod that supposedly had the Simple Spiral and Bumper guide. He had what called Bumper Guides at two locations abou
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I may be way off base here. If so, I apologize. But I have made an observation that I have no other explanation for. I purchased a new kit of LS Supreme Hi-Build Epoxy about eight months ago. It has been unopened and in a dark cabinet since that time. Last week I got it out to use on a rod I was preparing to finish. The hardener was still crystal clear---at least as clear as the resin. Both looke
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I think it probably is less important because everything is less important as you go down in line size and diameter. Nothing is as critical on smaller, limper line as it is on larger, stiffer line. But having made that statement I find the 27X to be a good constant for locating the choker guide. It works with nearly any and all reel sizes and line types and works rather well I might add. Not a
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Any time your work receives a compliment it is a very nice feeling. It lets you know somebody appreciates what you have done for them.
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Metal turning lathes will allow you to do more than a wood lathe will if you ever decide to get involved in making lathe parts, or turning objects other than wood. Doing this will take longer to set it up but the opportunities for craft usage would be tremendous. But I will not argue that for just knocking out a cork or wood grip, the wood lathe is going to be less expensive and somewhat quicker
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Good luck finding them in stock anywhere. I did manage to get about a half of a dozen in a couple sizes. Interestingly, I sized them opening for opening against a Fuji Ti-SIC which I assume is similar to all such ceramic fly guides in actual ID. A #4 Minima has the same ID line opening as the #6 ceramic. So I will assume that I can use #4 Minimas where I previously had been using #6 ceramics and
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I believe you are looking for the DPSLBD seat, they come in either size 20 or size 22. They call it a "Ferruled Reel Seat." I am assuming that any dealer that carries Fuji products could get it for you.
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That is a very good point! I have an older one and love it with a #6 line for close in fishing, but will switch to a #5 line for reaching out on larger waters.
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I would stick with the Rodmaker articles written by the originators. Pay close attention to what Bill Colby says about using the varigated or trimar thread. He is getting a two-color combination with just the one top thread. Use high contrast threads on the bottom such as B&W or B&Y. Then make your main thread on top a purple/gold trimar variety. The other top thread will not matter be
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I have searched high and low on the Pac Bay website but other than a mention of the fact that the are available I cannot seem to find anything that lists model numbers or frame/ring combinations and colors. Does anyone here have any information or a link to a site there that would show the available types and model numbers?
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I am changing from Flex Coat to Diamond II for epoxy. I am assuming that the syringes I was using in the FC can be used successfully in the DII as long as I keep the resin and hardener with the appropriate containers. Correct? They have been purged of any old epoxy but I see no reason to wash them out with anything.
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Bingham Ent. carries CUI products. You could also check with CUI and ask for a complete list of their resellers.
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