I have been thinking of ways to increase the value of my rod for customers but which do not require a great deal of further investment on my end. Little things that might mean a lot to the fisherman but which cost almost nothing to deploy. So far I have come up with hookkeeper, fish length limit thread marker, rod bag. What other small add-ons do you offer that make your rods more user friendly?
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Joysticks?
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Any insight on the new offerings from Northfork?
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Petri Wipe On Gel. This may be exactly what you are after. Wipe it on and let it dry. Satin finish.
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Lending ones name to a product line and working for them are two different things. I would guess the former?
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I mentioned an easy method for this yesterday. Takes about a minute to do and leaves you with a perfectly sized decal that will wrap around the blank and have the edges meet perfectly without having to do any calculations or enter any information anywhere. I got it from the Mud Hole instructions for sizing abalone for wrapping around the blank. I will not repeat it here since it is on the Mud Hol
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Thanks Bill, but I am already using this technique on the decals for my wraparounds. They are coming out just fine!
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Anyone that saw the Mud Hole abalone instructions may have learned how to form a perfect overlay accounting for blank taper. Mark off the decal area. Put several winds of masking tape at either end of that area. Then slice the tape bands and remove them. Put them alongside the decal on each side and draw a long from the top and bottom of each. Cut on those lines and you will have a perfect decal
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Yes! Set the rod horizontal on wall pegs or shelf brackets. Any bow or set should be in the middle of the supports. Tie a cord to the bow and hang a weight so as to put a slight bow in the opposite direction of what you have now. In a few days the rod should be fairly straight again. But be aware that it can easily retake that older set.
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I got the gist of the joke earlier than most I think. "Optimize our guidetrain designs" I still have not seen any optimization of any guide placement. You have a certain amount of room and a certain number of guides there is nothing revolutionary or even evolutionary you can do in that space with that number of guides. I said it before and I will say it again..... this is much ado ab
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I doubt you will see their work. This topic started a few days ago when others were discussing the CCS. A few jumped in and began raising objections about it due to the fact that, as they claimed, the CCS would not tell you everything you might want to know about a blank or rod. But these same people have never bothered to make the same statements about length or weight measurements, which als
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What? Denis had a rod break? I have not had that happen. I would be happy to share my guide number and layout program with him in order to prevent future stress failures. Obviously, I must be on to something!
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Using seven or eight guides plus a tip top on a 7 foot rod, you will find that there is only so much room within which to put those guides and therefore only so much you can do with the spacing. I would find it very hard to believe that anyone can do anything based on this ballyhoo that would result in any sort of spacing that is in any way practically better than what the average builder is alre
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This thread began when I presented a test I had performed and the observations I had made from the results of that test. They mirrored at least one other builders own test. Denis either did not understand what either of us were saying or chose to ignore those results even though they showed us that his earlier concerns were unfounded. If the silence is deafening it is only because most rod bui
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You cannot look at a bare rod blank and tell where the pattern angles are. You cannot flex the rod blank and tell where they are. It would not appear that they matter one whit anyway. The rod builder need not use any special consideration when considering where to locate guides on any well designed rod blank. The manufacturer has seen to it that there will not be a problem. If any special cons
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You cannot look at a bare rod blank and tell where the pattern angles are. You cannot flex the rod blank and tell where they are. It would not appear that they matter one whit anyway. The rod builder need not use any special consideration when considering where to locate guides on any well designed rod blank. The manufacturer has seen to it that there will not be a problem. If any special cons
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You began by raising issues with the CCS which you said was not sufficient to provide you with information that you thought critical to locating guides prior to building the rod. You did not provide any system that would provide that information and the issues you raise have proven over many years not to be issues, really. The problems you suggest are not taking place and you have no proof that a
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Ah, \"previous posts\" have indicated that there is no problem with what you call high stress points on a blank either prior or after a good build.
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Tell the customer that he has two options! You can reinsert and glue the guides back into place but you offer no guarantee that it they will not come out again and maybe very quickly! Or you can rewrap the guides in place with a Forhan lock wrap and offer him an assurance that they will not come back out for a long, long while. Put the ball in his court and then do as he wishes.
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I would also be interested to read Denis\'s system, presented concisely and logically here on this page. Please present it and how to use along with the improvements we should see in our present rods once we have implemented the system.
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A large corporation once desired to increase its sales of Shampoo. A sharp employee suggested they change their instructions to read, \"Wet hair, apply shampoo, lather, rinse, repeat.\" The word REPEAT meant that anyone using the product and following the new instructions would now use it at twice the rate they had done previously. Smart. Putting a self imposed shelf life of one year
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I have no doubt that you are correct. That point was hammered home in the photos that ran alongside the article in Rodmaker Magazine.
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I was going to suggest something similar. I think you might go smaller than BFAT6 but I am not sure what their size ranges include. That may be the smallest BFAT runner available.
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My observations indicate to me that much of what is being discussed along these lines does not have any real impact on what we do with a fishing rod. The bare blank and how it flexes in its natural state does not appear to be changed radically unless you use a very radical and improper number and placement of guides. I would hope that most custom builders are versed well enough in the basics of g
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The CCS does not tell one where to put the guides. At least I do not use it for that. I do not believe it was intended to do that. I wanted to see if a rod with a normal or sensible number of line guides loaded by means of a line strung through the guides and loaded that way, would flex differently than a bare blank with the load applied directly to the tip. It did not. The flex profile rema
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I am sure that would result in a radical change to the blank flex profile and that the CCS would easily be able to note any change in AA. I believe there was an article and photos of such in a recent issue of the magazine that depicted such radical and even less so guide numbers and placements. But I would never build a rod with just one guide and a tip top so for me that is a mute point.
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Triple post, sorry. I hope the moderators can remove the extra ones. I thought I hit the submit button only once.
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For lack of something better to do this afternoon and because I find it all too much fun, I tried some flex profile tests, making tracings of both guided and non-guided versions of the same blank. My results taught me something. I present them here for whatever they may be worth to someone else. St. Croix 5F-70MF 7 feet, 1-piece, medium power, fast action blank. Supported horizontally at th
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AHA! Great fun! Tom made mention earlier that any change in flex profile between the naked blank and a rod with guides installed and lined would only be apparent if far too few guides were used. I plan to find out. This afternoon I embark on some comparative tests just to satisfy my own curiosity. I will report back!
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Allow me to take a crack at this one... I believe I understand the question. Rod length does not affect reel drag but it does affect the effort required on the part of both fish and fisherman. A shorter rod takes away some of the leverage advantage any rod offers the fish. The longer the rod the more force the fish can apply against the fisherman and the less force the fisherman can apply agains
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