Question for Bill Stevens, when you use the TKTAG # 4 micros on the casting rod, do you run the 4's all the way down to the butt guide? Or do you use a 6 and transition to the 4's? Also what tip do you use? I seem to find a tube size correct for the #4 tip... Thanks
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As you look at the reel/rod compared to the new guide concept as shown above, see hoe the choker falls. Big reels, big distance. Ultralight reels, smaller distance. When placing the reduction guides, just make sure they fall in place as the line will feed. Direct drom the reel to the choker, alog the plane as shown.
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Do you use 2 coats? I cannot get the link to open at the left... I see they are having IT problems. Kyle Robinson
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We use it a lot, no problems. We like the U-40 color loc, and/or Diamonite. They both work, no problems. We them use a LS Supreme on top of that. Kyle Robinson
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Greg, I am also going to pick up the IP840 for a panfish blank. Scott, this blank weighs only 1.11oz. Rated for 4 to 6 line test. This blank is a mod-fast ul blank. Midwest # is RB48. Bill or Al will spec it out for you. Kyle Robinson
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Scott, I just picked up a rod kit from Mudhole, MHXSK-17. This kit builds on blank S841-MHX, which is a slate finish. But it is a very light 7' blank. It comes with a St Croix handle kit. Everything but the threads. 2-6 lb ultrelight. The whole kit was like about $63.00. I love the blank, can't wait to build it! Batson has some excellent options also! Check out Midwest R&R to the left. I k
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Glad you and Bill had a goodtrip Al!
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Well, golfers do change up grips as much as rod builders do seats and handles! It is a good thing there is not guides on a golf club! They would never figure out the spacing! Now that I think of it, I got as many rods as they have clubs! Well, we got reels, they do not!
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We use U40 LS supreme, for CP, we use U40 Color Lock 2. We do not use CP on all rods, but this works good for us. We use a mixer for the epoxy. We do not let it set too long. Follow the directions. If you do not let it set too long, it flows on good, levels good, no problems. We do hit it with a alcohol torch quickly. This really helps. If you use labels as we do, we like to coat them with CP fir
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All good advice. I own a couple businesses, so doing the paperwork, and tax issues are part of the deal. If you only build a couple rods, not worth the business issues. with the business issues, you have to keep records for all expenses, of course record sales, and pay taxes if there is an income. If you do it as a business part time, or full time, this is what you must do, to take advantage of t
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On some rods I have laid an underwrap of -for example-silver. Then use a red thread for the top or guide wraps. This gives a totally different color. The red will be more true red than maroon. The best way to find out is to do some practice wraps on a piece of scrap rod bland. Lay down the underwrap, cp 1 wrap, do not cp the other. Then add epoxy, then the top wrap, cp 1, not another, then add fi
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Sam Fox on here is a bamboo expert. He lives in NE Iowa. Not too far if you need to ship it. Kyle Robinson
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Thanks Guys. This is what i was lookijng for! Sam, good to see ya 2 weeks ago! Kyle
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What Tom says is correct. I have built a few spirals. I do like to find the spine, just because I have always tried to. However, I now always look for the straightest line, or plane of the blank, and use that. Usually it is on the spine. Some of the newer blanks do not seem to have as defined a spine. I also try to listen to what goes on here, what the more experienced builders say. Seems tha
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A question for the fly rod pros. My father-in-law passed away in 1981. He had an old flyrod, in a wrapped case, a 2 piecer. The brand of the rod and label on the rod says "Royal Javelin". I do not know a thing about older flyrods. I do not even know how old it is. My son has a couple flyrods, and my Brother-in-law is giving him Grandpa's rod to him as a gift from him and my wife. So I a
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Hi Mike, The Mudhole kits are a good product to start with. Also call Bill or Al at Midwest Rod and Reel, or Lance at Swampland. Both of these places will spec out your build, with every componant you will need. they will also recommend the type of blank, seats, and guides you will need for your specific build. Kyle Robinson
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If the components you now have seem to spendy to start out for a first build, order a kit from Mudhole at the left. Order a cheaper inexpensive kit, in about the action and speed you are interested in getting. Build that one first. Or as the others are saying, build one, do not be afraid to make a mistake. my wife is the builder here. She has been building a few years. I have helped her, setting
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We tend to get a few rods with the top 6" broken off. We redo the tips, maybe the last guide, give them back a shorter stiffer version! Rod lockers cause a lot of the breakage. Sticking the stiff blank into a "too short" rod locker, not good! We got a cealing fan over the table where we work! Not a good plan, but we keep it off all the time. LOL Kyle Robinson
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Hi Roger. Good timing for your comments. I have a thread going asking about an issue with this same design. The reel fits the rod very well. I am building my first skeleton seat rod. I have a couple different customers who are interested in one. This got me interested, and so it goes. I fish a lot, and am interested in finding out how it will fish, especially from the comfort level, and of course
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Everything is fine, the hoods are in place as designed. The feet set inside as intended. My question was, do you ever use a piece between the middle of the reel foot and the blank, as a shim, or just let the reel set in the hoods as designed. The reel fits very nice as it is intended. I was just wondering if a shim was ever used by anyone. Raymond, you have a good point. I guess that is one of t
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Hi all. I am building my first skeleton seat rod. I have everything set, handle is already epoxied, no problems. Do any of you shim the gap between the reel base and the rod? I know some folks build a shim assembly, so that the seat has a firm presence against the rod blank. I could use cork, but I would think that a rigid piece of something, used as a shim would give me a better sense of feel or
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Look on Mudhole for their tutoriels. Kevin does a good job of explaining some basics.
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Another idea... Go to the search function, type in "spiral wrap", set the time setting to 1 year, and let it search. Start reading/ There is a whole lot of info there. Some of these articles are very helpfull. I also think that it sounds like you are loosing too much energy in your rod blank when casting. I think Tom and Greg are right on the money. I have built spirals, with 12, 10, th
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Winding checks are so cheap, i just ordered 3 or 4 of every size, That way I got them all on hand.
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Congrats Ray! Congrats to Larry Also!
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I know of a couple guys who I have seen break good quality IM7 rods by high-sticking. They had a good fish on, 1 a walleye, 1 a bass, instead of swinging the fish, or netting the fish, as most smart anglers would do, they just lifted the fish straight up out of the water by lifting the rod back over their shoulder, dangling the 5 lb fish in front of their chest. This will bust a good rod every ti
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Gary, Welcome! And congrats with your new venture. We are all eager to see the new blanks and to build on them. We are also very glad to see you join the forum. This is indeed the best rod building forum out there. Tom does a great job for sure! We are also very interested in seeing what you, Jason, Brad, and the rest are up to. We know you folks will continue to develope new goodies for us all
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Very nice job! Thanks Bill!
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Invoice the customer for parts, and labor. Do not even mention "rebuild new rod". You will be fine. It is a repair, with some new parts. Kind of like taking a car to the body shop!
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I agree with Tom and Mike. I love my first one, am going to build another real soon. Kyle
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