Excellent Job Matt!! Very first class. Can you share your pen or ink?? Thanks
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If you are building to sell, you may want to go measure different reel feet. Set the seat accordingly to fit several. Most have about the same. However, make sure you have a bit of room like Mike said. For mine, I build it for a Currado, plus 1/4 inch. For a Customer, ask for his reel, add 1/4 inch. Make sure the thread takes the full nut plus some of the hood! Otherwise you will have problems s
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Could Mike forward a link to this when it is done? That would be great!
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Thanks for the info. We were told be a big brand retailer in the fishing world that the top end, Crutial on up were G Loomis blanks, the lesser ones were imported from the orient somewhere. This is not my thread, but I sure appreciate knowing the truth.
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We all can use a good New Years laugh! But someone is getting big $$ here for these ideas! The old fiberglass painted rods are maybe not always so bad! Dig them out again... Naners, oranges, carrots, apples, maybe we need to rub our rods down with Fruit Fresh, or some fruip preservative in the future.... We never know! They may cast farther! Jay, I like the Timber Stick idea. When I was a k
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Hi Folks, I am getting ready to put micro guides for the first time on a casting rod. I plan to use 4's. Should I use a couple #6 micros starting with the butt guide, then the #4's to the tip? Second question for a 2nd rod- Also, I am thinking of building a spiral wirh micros. Has anyone done this, and if so, what did you use for transition guides, or bumper if it was a simple spiral. I am g
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Thanks guys. You reaffirmed what i thought to be the case. I think I will build the rod on another seat, then show it to him. thanks again,
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Good tips here Guys! I have been having problems with this. Now I have a better idea how to do this! Love that thread tip duane!
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I am wondering if anyone knows if this reel seat is available. It is from a Diawa steez rod. They are called air beam reel seats. The spinning rod seats are the ones I am wondering about. I do not think these rods are worth the money, but a customer likes the seat. Any possible help would be appreciated. thanks
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I just took the old seat off of a Berkley series one spinning reel that I have had for 20 years. This was a split gripped rod, with a plastic exposed blank seat. I made a couple cust with the dremel tool as you guys said, then applied heat, took pliers and peeled the seat off in chunks. for this type of seat, the heat gun did wonders. I also used heat on some old guides in the past, and the heat
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I thought it was built on a G Loomis blank, but may be wrong. Interesting to know...
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Roger, I am in the process of building my first split with a micro seat. I am not convinced either. They thing looks good, but I am not crazy about how my hand wraps around the reel, and the seat assy. I palm a bc reel all the time, but even then, it seems like I do touch the seat assy at times. I do not think it is comfortable either. I got to put the guides on it still. I may just finish it to
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It looks like they might pull it out!!
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Work with the sponsors. Have them spec the rods possibly, let their knowledge direct you to the best components for what you need to build. They know what may be specially priced. Good suppliers have to make a profit. If they do not, they go away. You will get better pricing by buying correctly from you suppliers. Try to buy the whole build from 1 supplier, if possible. Compared to buying fro
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Great issue. Loved the rod blank breakage article. Very informative. Thanks Tom. Thanks for Gary's and Jason's input also. Excellent job!
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I picked up a set, but the blade works the best for me!
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Tom, I am glad you have thick skin, and I am sure that most of the other members on this forum feel the same. Keep doing what you do, as you do it very well. I have been a member on here for only a year, but I have read about everything there is to read here. Love the library and all of its info. You have always done things first class. Giving credit where it is due. Keep up the good work.
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Find some good pics of how the epoxy is laid over the wraps. This is key. You want the epoxy to seal, lock and hold your wraps tightly in place. You want to keep the wraps tightly packed together. Flow the epoxy around the wraps good, sealing from the top, down into the space between the locking wraps and the guide well.
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This has been recieved very well. I am glad to see that it is working for you folks. I have sent out about 60 copies so far. This should give everyone the flexability to figure costs/profit in a fashon that is tailored to how they track specs and price their rod builds. There are features that can help the pro builders, as well as the hobby builders. Any questions, let me know.
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Brad, can you repost that info, please...
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Thanks for the info Jon. The story does a good job of telling the story in Gary's words.
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the email is correct. I did have it wrong, but the correct email is: kfg001@aol.com
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A note regarding taxes, and FET. There is a formula which calculates state sales tax. The cells are L51 cor 52 for the input data. Also for the FET. As you may know, if you buy and build, there is a FET to be paid by the purchaser. I won't get into that, because it is explained real thouroughly in the library section here. Tom and others have covered it a lot in the past also. But it is calcu
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Sorry, I should not have put in the WWW on my email. Do not know what I was thinking about. I have sent out about 25 copies so far. If you want one, and did not get one, let me know via email, i will send you one. After you read the directions, you can see how you will be able to customize the spreadsheet to your own needs. After the build, save a copy of this with your customers name, date
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It has been a bit since we talked about tracking costs and profits on rod building. I have an excel speradsheet that could be helpful to anyone who needs some tracking costs, markup, and profit on rod building. The spreadsheet is available to anyone on this forum who wants it. Just email me, and I will send it via email. I have even included an invoice that you can print out for your customer.
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Above is a link to Batson's reamer set. I have one of these, and they are terrific. Well made, quality, easy on the hands, and they come with spare sand paper. Good value. Several of the sponsors to the left carry them.
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Jim, well said! I agree, this type of person is a waste of time. And you are right, he would be busting the rod, and want a new one all the time. I know a person who breaks a rod every 2 years, so he can got get a new one. He guys ok rods, but not the best, but does gety ones with warrenties. He wants us to build him one, I just laughed at him. I tell him that our rods are not for his style. He
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We like to use CP sometimes, sometimes not. For example, I like how the red thread we use turns a great maroon color with out the CP. But stays red with it. Depends on what you want the finished color to be. Sometimes we do a test on a pc of rod blank to see how the finished color will look..
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I hand ream everything. Good reamers work great. After a while you will learn a fine touch with the reamers. Do not force them. Keep moving, and twisting lightly, and you will learn how to do it. I am sure some of the more experienced guys on here will have some tips. After a while you will be able to keep the reamers centered, cut evenly, by feel, and by watching. When you try to force the rea
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Tom, I was sad to see you have to defend your actions on this board. But, I am glad you did. You do a first class job here and with the magazine also. My only wish is that I had gotten into the rod building a few years ago, so I had all the older copies! You run a class forum, and magazine. Do not change a thing. As for the companies that are on this board, they speak for themselves. They all re
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