You need to set up the rod and see what happens with the reel you are going to use with it. There is no one set answer for this. What I told you before, works for me and the rods and reels I use. I have been using the simple spiral more and I start out with 3 #6 double foot guides, I like them because they tend not to get messed up when you might accidently step on them on the deck of the boat
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You get the butt guide in the right location for that line and reel, you can go smaller in size. You will have to adjust the position of the butt guide to find the optimal position for the setup.
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I would look into these guides for the first and or second guide from the reel, then go to the Alconites. You get the height you need off the blank better I think with them. With using that line, you could easily use a 25 or even go down to a 20 or 16. You would just have to play with the distance the guide is from the reel. You would also be adding less weight using these guides.
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For myself, I have mine at 0 degrees and have no problems for the bass rods I have workd on. I think it also depends on how close that guide is to the reel. I tend to have that guide a bit further from the reel so the angle the line makes from that guide to the reel is smaller than if the guide was closer to the reel. I am also dealing alot of times with reels that have a more norrow spool so
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You could take a razor blade and trim them down and then apply another coat of finish.
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With that 8 foot crankbait rod I made, I was doing it for a demo on micro guides. The original reel I was planning on using for test casting did not hold enough line on it. I spooled that reel ever time. So for me, using all micro guides did not effect casting distance, but since it controlled the line flow better from the reel to the first guide, I think it helped with casting distance.
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For what I have done when doing an 8 foot crankbait rod and some redoing of past rods with the micros, I would say forget the 6 and 4 and go with all 3's. That 8 foot crankbait rod casts like a dream and I have used it with mono or braid. The only thing I have found when using all micros, and seems to get a better line flow off the reel, place the first guide from the reel a bit farther than yo
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Depends on what thread you will be using and if CP is going to be used or not. If I am not using CP and using a light colored thread, I will use some model paint like Testors to cover the foot to make it match the guide, that is when I use guides with black frames. This way you do not see the silver of the frame through the thread. For dark threads, it does not matter if you use CP or not, the
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Have done it alot, but I would say don't bother trying to save the cork and reelseat. Those items can be removed, if you do a search, there has been alot talked before. Myself I just cut them off the blank and start with all new parts. You might also have to refinish the blank itself, myself the best way I have found to get all the old finish off the blank is by scapping, using a razor blade h
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What exactly are you measuring? The guide size is based on the ID of the frame, not the ID of the insert. All inserts have different ID's depending on the material used.
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I would suggest one of the Castaway blanks from Swampland. They have 3 to choose from depending on what weight lure you will be using. The only thing I would say though, don't spiral wrap a crankbait rod. If you can give them a call at Swampland and talk with Bill Stevens, he can tell you alot about setting up that rod with micros. When finished, these rods will cast a country mile with a cra
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I would look more into the simple spiral. If you do a search here I am sure you will find plenty of information on it.
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I am taking a look at several older rods that I use for my bass tournament fishing and re-evaluating the guides used. Now most of these rods were completed some 15 years ago and the guides used were very typical of the time. Switching to mostly micro guides and smaller double foot guides where applicable. Also on some decided to remove the long butt wraps I put on them. Can't believe how much
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I have done with no problems. When I modified an exposed blank reel seat once that had ribs inside, someone suggested tinting the Rod Bond. The way I modified the reel seat, in the exposed area, you could see the ribs. With the Rod Bond colored black, it filled in the gaps and you really couldn't tell that the ribs were there.
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You can not go by the ID of the insert. You have to go by the ID of the frame.
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The power ratings are going to be different per manufacturer. Ones medium may be anothers medium heavy. And as you can see it varies in the same company itself. The best you can do is get a blank with the specifications you want. But I would find it hard to believe unless I could see for myself, a blank with a line rating of 8-17 and being considered a light blank. Can you gives us the spec
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For things I have been doing for heavy flipping rods for bass and using micro guides, when I doing the spiral portion, I am using 3 #6 double foot guides. You might be able to just use 3 # 8's and not bother with the other sizes.
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One thing to add to that. Don't pull the guide, I found it better to gently wiggle the guide and it will work its way under the threads. By pulling it is easy to pull too hard and out comes the guide. You have more control by wiggling the guide.
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I was shown something many years ago that told myself that every rod I build would have somewhat different placements. This person had 10 blanks of the same model and when held by the tips, the butt ends all were at different positions, not one of the blanks flexed the same. I use the NGC and it gets me my location for the choker guide and then I layout my running guides to the tip and I see be
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Here is who our bass club has used before here in Illinois, Rayjus Outdoors.
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On my Jet lathe, I have to crank out the tailstock a bit to get mine to fit properly. If the tailstock is cranked all the way in, then the end of the chuck shaft hits.
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I have been using the simple spiral but I use 3 #6 double foot guides then #3 micros out to the tip. I place my bumper guide though so I get the best line path, it is not always at 90 degrees.
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Get with the guys from Swampland and get a Castaway 963, 964 or 965 XP3. One of these will fit the lure size of a rattle trap being used and will throw it a country mile. Use all micro guides and even with 65 pound braid, it casts great.
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They are nice reelseats, but what I have found if you are really wanting to take weight out, use the Castaway reelseat Swampland has. The complete reelseat weighs less than just the rear section of the Minima seat. And if you make the Castaway seat a split grip iteself, you take out even more weight. If you use the Minima seat and you have to end up reaming it out to fit the blank, really watc
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It can vary and can be dependant on techniques. I know many like them a bit shorter so the butt end does not get hung up in clothes or their coats. Most getting a rod will have some idea how long of a handle they would prefere.
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Well guide size is based on the OD of the insert or ID of the frame. You do not measure the ID of the insert. Everyone's inserts are a bit different.
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It is a hard black material. I know of some that have worked with it. I know at one time it was kind of hard to come by for someone to use it. Not sure now what it is like to buy it.
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I do everything I can to keep dust down in the room I do my finish work. I clean often and do not move around much when applying the finish. I know other also use a drying box, so the rod is enclosed as it dries the finish.
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Heating up the resin is about the best you can do. Another thing that can help, once the finish is mixed, spread it out on aluminum foil, it helps it last a bit longer. Or Mudhole as aluminum foil dishes, like 3" in diameter which lets the finish spread out more. Spreading it out also help you get rid of more of the bubbles in the finish. Also where you located at? Looking at your pos
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Best I found was a bit of heat and scrapping it off.
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