I can imagine it is frustrating. But with the advent of such small guides and even half sizes, it's often hard to quickly eyeball guides and sort them perfectly. The difference between a 6 and an 8 is evident. The difference between a 4 and 4.5 not so much, particularly for older eyes. ..........
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If you are not using CP on your wraps there is less reason to extend the epoxy beyond the wrap edge. Otherwise you'd want to extend beyond the wrap edge by a tiny bit to seal off the wrap from possible water intrusion. CP will not effectively seal against water over time. ..........
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Don't pack it full of epoxy. You're adding more weight than you are strength. A 3/8 inch overhang to accommodate the fighting butt is of no concern. You'll never stress that area enough to realize any issues. ............
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One company's A is not always the same diameter as another company's A. I seem to recall that the Fuji thread runs a tad smaller than most other companies' similar label size. Hitena might also. So in the absence of AA NCP, you might attempt to find some "smaller" A size NCP. ..............
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I use 2 roughly 1-inch long arbors. If you were to use a full length arbor, it's certainly not going to hurt anything. Any additional weight would be terribly slight as the arbors just don't weigh that much. As far as additional epoxy weight - the fit of the arbor should be close to the rod blank. The amount of epoxy between the two surfaces is absolutely tiny. It's just not of any practical conc
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You can hand wrap on a power wrapper. You can't power wrap on a hand wrapper. If you want to have the option of doing both - get the power wrapper. I am a firm believer in having as many (and of good quality) tools as you can afford. Even used sparingly they make various tasks a pleasure instead of a chore. If you think you might build larger saltwater type rods a power wrapper is invaluable.
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Always start with sources you can trust. The series of videos by FlexCoat are simple, straightforward and have stood the test of time. They won't steer you wrong. Many of the sponsors here also feature videos on their websites or YouTube channels. Get an idea of what's involved and then come back and ask any questions you have. .........
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Almost certainly that 4'11" blank is designed for use in a Uni-Butt. Find out who the manufacturer is and give them a call and ask to be sure. If it's not a blank meant for a Uni-Butt, it'd have to be intended for single piece use as a very heavy stand-up rod. ..........
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A closed wrap is made by continuing to wrap threads until there is no underlying blank or under wrap showing in-between the main center pattern threads. ..........
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Your opinion would match the research. Both the article and book state why casting and spinning rod optimum diameters will be different. ..........
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I didn't say I didn't like your opinion. I simply stated that there is a correct diameter for any particular sized hand, in all situations. If you fully read the article or the book - both state the optimum diameter for spinning and casting reel seats will be different. Casting rods generally take a different diameter grip or seat than a spinning rod because most fishermen will cradle or palm
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It's about proper ergonomics and size doesn't change with stress amounts. Not my opinion, but that of the U.S. military studies into human bio-mechanics and their relation to good ergonomics for tool and control handles, levers, etc. Larger seats weigh more, but the location of that weight changes little. It's too low on the rod to affect much in the way of swing weight, rod speed, etc. ..
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As a few have pointed out here, the size listed in the model number is for the inside of the seat. The outside diameter can vary based on the seat style. In other words, two #20 reel seats may have different outside diameters. Just something to consider. .........
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Jim Reinhardt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Most of the rods I build are ultra-lite trout > rods. The only size seat I use is a size 20. > > p?photo=22269&cat=500 > > I posted a photo of the seat on my go to trout > rod. Exactly. Your hand does not change size so whatever works well on a heavier rod works just as well on lig
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I use at least an 18 if not a 20 on UL rods. The seat should fit your hand, not the blank. ...........
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Just keep wrapping until you have the wrap closed in. You won't "fail" miserably. You will have to pack a bit more towards the top end of the wrap and burnish and spread a bit more towards the butt end of the wrap. Some will use Taper Offset Spacing for more precision but honestly unless there is a very steep taper along your wrap length I've not found it necessary. ........
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As of December 19: Exhibitors All Around Fishing American Tackle Anglers Resource Batson Enterprises Bill Ballou's Custom Fish Grips Carolina Cast Pro CORK4US CTS Fishing New Zealand Custom Colored Guides Decal Connection Decorative Studio DreamWeaver Rods EP's Rod & Reel Foundation Outdoor Group Hatteras Jack HFF Custom Rods Mickel's Cust
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Any blank can be a walleye blank if it suits what you're doing. In fact, many blanks labeled as bass blanks in one category will be labeled as walleye blanks in another. Same blanks. .........
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It can be done but usually requires that you use two identical blanks so that the tapers match. If they don't, you will have difficulty keeping the sections firmly mated when extended. .............
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Not sure that many, if any here, paint reels. I would think some sort of appliance epoxy would be about the best you'll do. ........
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Rich Forhan has been on and I believe that Jim Upton will be on in the near future. .........
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Most all the blank suppliers offer some surf blank models. MHX, American Tackle, Batson, etc. ..........
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Just mock up a handle a foot shy of the butt. Cast it, retrieve it, pull on it a bit. You'll then know exactly what you're going to have if you do cut a foot from the butt and build the rods that way. ............
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Some years ago there was an antique tackle dealer at the Expo. He had a 1972 Browning Silaflex 7'6" 5-wt fly rod, new. As a kid I coveted a Silaflex but as a kid, I didn't have the money for much and certainly not one of the premium rods of the day. So I bought the one at the Expo. Last year I strung it up and took it for a spin. I expected it to be very poor compared to the fly rods I've bo
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"Mag Tapers" were originally meant to indicate very steep tapers - large butts and small tips. Very fast actions with powerful butt and light tip powers. The term may be more marketing than anything else these days. I suspect it depends on the manufacturer. ............
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A 4.5 ceramic will have an opening that is somewhat less than 4.5mm. The size is measured on the inside of the metal frame. While a 4.5 might pass the line you may find that if you need to pull any sort of leader or loop through the guides that 4.5 may tend to be a tad small. I doubt I'd go less than a #6. ...........
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I usually spiral cut them and then pry open with a screwdriver. Glass blanks are very susceptible to heat damage. .................
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Titanium will save you some weight but it will be minuscule due to the fact that most use much smaller guides these days so none of the guides out there weigh very much in such small sizes. To me you'd never realize a practical difference on that rod between a quality steel guide set and the same in titanium. Now if you are looking for something that won't rust when used in harsh salt or brackish
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Orvis called that system their "Flex Index" system. This is where Dr. Hanneman got the idea for the AA component of the Common Cents System. ............
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