Thomas & Thomas... I built two prototype saltwater rods for them way back in the early 1990's. .............
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Their company catalogs said otherwise... Action - where the rod initially flexes. Speed - rate of response and recovery. Power - resistance against flex. Action and speed are commonly mistaken one for the other. ..............
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If you will mount the stripping guide 32 inches from the rod butt (assuming no fighting butt) I think you're going to find that it doesn't get much better than that. ..................
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Many of them confused action with rod speed (still do). They are not the same. Action is where the rod initially flexes. Speed is how it "feels" i.e. how quickly it reacts and recovers. Much of the time when you hear fly fishermen talk about "fast action rods" they are not talking about the flex profile but the speed of the rod. They just don't know it. A progression ac
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Fly rods only have one stripping guide - that is the guide closest to the reel. Many will have two double foot ceramic guides due to the main load on a rod being in the bottom half to one third of the rod's length. I wouldn't worry about that too much on the light line weight rods but once you move up into the 6-weight range I tend to use two ceramics on the butt section. Some years back I mig
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Early on I mounted most of my spinning seats uplocking. Over some time I reversed course and now almost always mount them downlinking. Due to the shape of the seats you've mentioned, I'd think you'd want to mount it whichever way provides the most comfort and control. .........
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The manufacturer catalogs from that time period, even before and since, have typically depicted rod action as where the rod initially flexes. These would include Lamiglas, Fenwick, Loomis, St Croix, Featherweight and a few more. ...........
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Zenaq is still working on the carbon composite guides. However, they do not plan to introduce them in more than 3 sizes and none of those will be small ring, low frame single foot guides. Those types remain best suited when done in current stamped metal types. The company's idea is to mate current low frame single foot running guides with 2 or 3 high frame carbon composite guides. ............
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A straight finish edge off the end of the wrap has little to do with the RPM of the motor. 40 RPM is not necessarily too fast for finish curing. I don't generally don't use a drying motor but when I have I prefer 18 RPM. The Flex Coat machine is very versatile and I suspect that you could buy a simple two dozen dollar finishing motor and adapt it to the machine. Call John Cates at Flex Coat a
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The trouble with someone selling you the "codes" is that it is all too easy for those codes to be electronically shared far and wide. Not hard to put yourself out of business that way. ...................
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Saving money is rarely a viable reason for building a rod. In fact, if you consider your time spent in building it, you are almost certainly better off buying the commercially made version. The other thing to consider is the warranty. Granted, it will be a limited warranty against defects in materials and workmanship, but that covers the entire rod if you buy it from Sage. If you build it, it wou
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They'll be at the Expo this year. ...............
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Richard Jankouskus would have had some but he passed a few years ago. Vic Cutter might not have one but could tell you what they looked like. I think you and I spoke on this before. .....
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Exhibitors as of 11/09/23 More to add early next week- All Around Fishing American Tackle Anglers Resource Bill Ballou's Custom Fish Grips CORK4US CTS Fishing New Zealand Custom Colored Guides Decal Connection Decorative Studio DreamWeaver Rods EP's Rod & Reel Foundation Outdoor Group HFF Custom Rods Mickel's Custom Rods North Fork Composites
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One reason that the most strength in a rod blank is in the outer fibers is due to the fact that as the diameter gets larger the tube becomes more stiff. As it gets smaller, the tube becomes less stiff. So as you cut through those outer fibers and reduce the diameter at any particular point, you have an effectively smaller diameter tube. This becomes particularly critical the closer you get to the
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Common Cents System. AA is action and ERN is power. Go to the magazine website and you can find and read the article on what it is and how to use it. ........
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If they show a chart for that blank in a standard guides-on-top configuration, just use that as a starting point but put the guides on the bottom of the rod. You can keep the butt guide up top and dial in your transition to the others any way you want. .........
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170 is common. Take the measurements on that axis and most likely you'll see the power come up a little bit more. Just a little bit. ..............
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The Common Cents "Big Picture" will do what you ask. ..................
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The power in a rod blank is mostly in the outer diameter. By sanding the outside walls you may easily compromise the structure of the rod blank. I'm not surprised that its power was reduced. The question now is - will it hold up for what you want it to do? ............
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You can find the stiffest axis by hand just as easily. It's not likely to be 180 degrees opposite the spine, but who knows... maybe you got lucky. ..............
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You may be dealing with a previous heat issue. ..........
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Straightest axis and stiffest axis go hand in hand > many times. Yes, they go hand in hand almost always. But the softest and stiffest axis are rarely 180 degrees apart. The spine and the straightest/stiffest axis are usually anywhere from about 110 to 170 degrees apart. .........
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I don't know what "Tiger" thread is. I doubt it can mimic the moire effect of an actual two-layer Tiger Wrap. Is your thread more of the varigated type thread that was sold many years ago? By all means, CP will keep whatever colors you have brighter and more vibrant. Otherwise the thread will indeed turn translucent. ..............
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Take a close look at the blotches. I've seen these before but it's been years ago. I seem to recall that I was able to remove them fairly well with a good cleaning. Really depends on what they are - old mold or mildew spots, water spots, etc. If they are deep into the blank finish you could be dealing with heat spots or something that isn't going to respond to a general cleaning. .............
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Guides are way overbuilt for the job they have to do. They'd be plenty strong. Rich Forhan covered this in his podcast with Bill Falconer a couple weeks back. Even a heavy bass, heavily loaded, only puts about a pound of load on any of the mid to lower section guides. Much, much less on the guides on the upper half of the rod. ............
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I've collected Heddon rods for many years. The #10 was a big seller but was one of their lower end models. However, Heddon used very good cane on all their rods and other than the smaller number of guides and less expensive reel seat, the #10 is a decent rod. One thing you have to be careful of with the older cane rods is the glue used to bind the segments. If you see any delamination along i
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Sounds like a lot of trouble to me. One of the things that makes the Forhan Wrap so good is that it really doesn't add more than a couple of seconds to the regular guide wrap. You can do them on the small guides but there isn't much room and thread ends up high on the leg. The old L style, or what they call fly rod single foots are easier to make these wraps with and they're just as strong if
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At 50F you won't have any issues with application. It cures by exposure to moisture/humidity. Not really very temperature sensitive in the way that an epoxy is. ...........
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If you're talking about a "Y" shaped single foot where you have two uprights directly off of one foot, you can't really wrap around each leg or upright individually. And as David mentioned the rise on the small ones is steep and wide so any type wrap-around security wrap wants to slip down on itself. This really rears its head on the smaller sizes which you'd be apt to use on the mid an
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