I don't rely on coatings for surface wear. The only Minima guides I've used are the Minima 4 in plain chrome/stainless. ..........
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These are fairly new to the custom rod market so I doubt anyone can give you a definitive answer. They just haven't been around long enough in this market for anyone to really know what they're going to look like after a few seasons of use. I'm afraid you're going to have to do your own research via on the water use in order to get the answers you want. They have been in use for a couple deca
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Klass Kote, which is a solvent based epoxy "paint" is the thinnest of the epoxies commonly used for coating guide wraps. It's about the same viscosity as varnish. If you ever used Clemens Crystal Coat, you were using Klass Kote. ...............
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Heat will accelerate the thickening and setting of the epoxy. ............
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The key is getting epoxy between the grip and the blank. If you fail to do that, the grip will simply squeegee the epoxy from the blank below it, being very hard to slide/move along the blank. If you do it correctly, two fingers will easily push the grip into place and you'll have to be careful not to push the grip completely off the butt end of the blank. ............
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There is no user friendly way to package PermaGloss. A can with a screw sticking out of it is a packaging and shipping nightmare. Trondak has explored many options, including one-time use foil packets, certain plastics, etc. None have proven satisfactory. It's a product whose technology currently outpaces that of packaging. ...............
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You can use nearly any thread, but only a few are designed expressly for use as guide wrapping thread. Sewing threads may have lubricants in them that can cause various finishing problems. Just keep that in mind if you run into trouble with a non-guide wrapping thread. .............
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Read the instructions on the FAQs page here. It will work exactly perfectly for you. You do not need to boil your grips. Just do what the FAQs page tells you to do. ....................
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If you do decide to use it, remember that Gorilla Glue needs moisture to cure. You'll have to dampen the face of each cork ring before applying the adhesive. .............
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It can be done, but it's not really the best product for the job. It's messy, stains clothing and fingers. Regular 2-part epoxy or Titebond carpenter's glue are better suited for this application. .............
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You need to file some flats on opposite sides of your threaded rod. Then use a matching washer between the spool washer and wingnut. This will absolutely prevent the wingnut from turning as the spool turns. .............
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All you're really trying to do is prevent a split out at the edge of the female ferrule. I had given a rule of thumb in the book I wrote for Amato that has become the norm - wrap the ferrule a distance that is about 1-1/2 to twice the diameter of the ferrule at the opening point. Make the wrap a little more snug than you do your guide wraps. Many manufacturers reinforce their ferrules and do n
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Well, the thing is, commercially made rods are not terribly sharp in terms of fit and finish. I always found it curious that the same fisherman who would never bother to give a commercially made rod, even a very expensive one, a double take, will go over a custom rod with a fine tooth comb. ..............
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Stainless steel will indeed rust. ...........
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With the exception of titanium framed guides, any and all such guides will rust in saltwater if you don't give them the proper care and cleaning. ...........
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Guides are not glued to the rod. That's a mistake you want to correct now if you can. If you do a good job wrapping and packing the thread, particularly size A, it will not look like thread. To the untrained eye, it will look like a solid band. If you want a true painted look, just tint your epoxy with black pigment and coat the wraps with that. ............
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When you punch a hole in the can, you need to use a larger screw eye than the hole you punched. The can will leak for just little bit and then the leaking PG will gel and seal things up. It will never again leak after that. .......................
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You need something to keep the solids in suspension. If you want thicker PG, allow the portion you're going to use to set out for a few minutes prior to using it. ............
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Not the topic question, but no color preserver can perform miracles and none claim to hold perfect shade when light threads are used over dark blanks. If you try to paint a black wall with white paint, you can't blame the paint for not remaining perfectly bright white. Common sense should rule the day. ............
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I'm not totally up to speed on the manufacturer's instructions for using that product (4 coats?). If you're sure you followed the directions and can't find anything else amiss, I'd call the manufacturer and see what they can offer. ................
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I suppose someone should explain why storing PG in the refrigerator extends its life. Here goes - a "frost free" refrigerator removes moisture from the air inside the unit. The absence of moisture in that environment is why PG stays liquid for a much longer period when stored in the fridge. In the paint can mentioned above, however, you do not need to store the PG in the refrigerator
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In this day and age you must have a website. It provides you with legitimacy. One of the first things a person interested in your work is going to do is look and see if you have a web presence. If you move ahead with a website - keep it simple and to the point. Photos are better than text. The idea is to raise interest and have the potential customer contact you for details. You do not want a
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PermaGloss will keep for years in a sealed metal paint can. Punch a small nail hole near the bottom and seal with a screw eye. Pour in the PG and seal the can. Some will leak out but will quickly form a seal around the screw eye. .............
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It wouldn't set. Moisture has to be present for that to happen. PermaGloss actually contains 2 solvents. These are necessary to keep the solids in suspension but their evaporation alone will not cause those solids to cure in the the intended manner. The base product has been altered by Trondak and although it is a moisture curing urethane, there is no other product exactly like it. ....
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That's very true - action is where the blank initially flexes. Speed is the rate of reaction and recovery and that is definitely affected by the modulus of the material used to make the rod. .................
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No, the material has nothing to do with the action of the rod. You can make fast action blanks from bamboo and slow action blanks from the highest modulus graphites. IM6 is a trade name for a specific carbon fiber. IM8 would be a trade name for another specific carbon fiber. Generally the higher the number within the same company's classification the higher modulus of the fiber. .........
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Find a thin walled blank that closely matches the taper of you what you have now and inner sleeve the section to a distance perhaps an inch or so beyond the crack. The light nature of the blank makes this a simple and effective repair. The hard part will be finding the scrap piece to use as a sleeve. .............
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If you're concerned about laughter from other surf fishermen then you're going to have to back up and forget about doing a lot things that would otherwise help you build a better surf rod. I'd recommend you read all you can about the various spiral wrap systems. The O'Quinn method is used by many surf fishermen I know and they all feel it produces a better all around rod than anything else.
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I'd take a hard look at the Minima 4 guides. You'll get a larger opening per size, which allows you to go smaller without giving up anything in terms of ring opening. And you'll save eve more weight. ................
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Do it the same way you do any other rod. Assemble the sections and treat it as a 1-piece model. Just be careful not to get finish down from the ferrule onto the adjoining piece. .................
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