In effect, a 2 piece rod nearly doubles your cost over a 1-piece model. It is, for all intents and purposes, 2 separate rod blanks. Each time you add another piece, you are building another blank. Even after recovering the tooling costs, you always have the additional labor involved in building multi-piece rods. This is one of the primary reasons they carry a higher price tag. The days of cu
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No they're not, but no human hand is going to be able to tell the difference. Multi-piece rods are more expensive to build - good tip over butt ferrules require the blank be made on separate mandrels. In order to maintain a good continuity of properties across the ferrule area, the diameters and wall thickness of the blank at those points have to carefully altered. Although more expensive to
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It's unlikely the PermaGloss will lift something like Epoxy. The ideal process would have been to coat the blank with PG first, then wrap and apply epoxy to the wraps. But if you have to go the other way, just get close to the edge. If the PG touches the epoxy, you shouldn't have any problems. ..............
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No, CP should certainly not repel the finish. But some products take time to perfect. Sometimes such perfection is the result of a lot of lab and field testing. Other times it happens after the product is released and thousands of people begin using it. Any problems quickly raise their head once in the hands of the consumers. This is the sort of thing that users should bring to the attention o
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Good ferrules flex with the rod. Modern ferrule design has come a long way. If you were to blindfold most angers and hand them a multi-piece rod they'd never know it wasn't a 1-piece model. ............
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They're not necessary. ............
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It never disappeared - your browser called up an older page. ..........
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They're pretty durable as they are but you won't hurt anything by putting a coat of epoxy over the top. ..............
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If you're putting light colored thread over a dark colored blank, the thread is going to lose a shade no matter what brand CP you use. ............
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You browser cache called up an old page which it cached before you made your post. Your post is right where you left it. Please learn to use your computer's internet browser. Thanks. ............
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Hard to do on a wood lathe. Attachments for holding the tools, etc., are going to be difficult. But there is an alternative - stay tuned to the next issue of RodMaker. ...........
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I am going to chose a popular and readily available monofiliment in .010 diameter. Same for braid. My only goal here is to control this particular variable so we focus mainly on the rods rather than the line. We'll provide the line the day of the contest but it will be a brand and size that almost anyone can obtain locally for their own casting tests. .................
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I believe the Renzetti chuck mounting bore is 3/4 inch diameter with 16 threads to the inch. You'll need to figure out what your dryer headstock shaft is and then you'll know if it'll fit or not. ................
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Yes. ................
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With a 3-jaw chuck, you can however, mount a specialty chuck driven spur center for working with square turning stocks. I should have mentioned that just above. ..................
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The morning's mail brought a couple more booth contracts. Expo Vendors as of 9/9/09 Batson Enterprises (Rainshadow/Forecast) Midwest Rod & Reel Seeker Rod Company REC Components Donart The Rod Shop, Inc. Skin Shop USA Scott’s Custom Rods (Fish Sticks/RodDancer) Kinnikinnick Wood (realseatblanks.com) Swampland Rods Angler’s Roost Enterprises
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Square ended stock isn't going to work with a 3-jaw chuck. These are fine for blanks or other round objects but not for square stock. ............
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I would add one thing to Steve's post - generally you slip-strike the fish on a fly rod thus the rod doesn't really play much of a role in hook setting. You're setting the hook by hand directly in line with the fish. There is no sweep of the rod as with a casting or spinning rod. ..........
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The firmness of both hypalon and EVA varies based on the manufacturer. Neither Mud Hole, nor any of the other component suppliers make these products. They source them from overseas manufacturers and the hardness grade varies from shipment to shipment. Not much anyone can do about it. Generally hypalon is not very firm. It's somewhat spongy to begin with although it tends to be tougher than m
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I like an 8-1/2 footer personally and a 5-weight will be plenty of fun, but a 4 would be even better for bream. Earlier this year I built a rod and fitted it with the Minima guides and really like them - a perfect compromise between snake or wire loops and ceramics. Most likely I'll use them from now on. ...............
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At some point while out fishing, any rod is going to be bent to 90 degrees and this won't hurt a thing. You just never want to take the tip beyond 90 degrees. Very stout rods present a bit of a different problem for guide spacing in that they're sometimes hard to flex very far and you certainly don't want anything coming loose while they're in that position. But nearly any guide placement sys
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Apply a weight to the tip and at some point as you weight the tip more and more, the relationship of the butt to the tip will be 90 degrees. The butt will be horizontal and the tip will be pointing down, vertically. This particular relationship is the basis for many other guide spacing systems as well. .............
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Bill, My point is that a rod that measures 3.5 ERN is not a "true 3-weight" anymore than anything else is. Too many people have used the CCS ERN figures to declare that certain rods are incorrectly rated. They're not - any of these rods will cast the rated line at some distance. ..................
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Bill, No, you've made a mistake. The Common Cents System does not attempt to define what a "true x-weight is." It only provides a power number that can be translated into which lines will easily load the rod at certain distances (WL). A rod that measures, say, 4.5 ERN on the CCS scale will cast a 3-weight line just as easily as it will cast a 7-weight line. But not easily at the sa
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The ruling number is in the article in the library page here. The instructions for form 720 are written for the first point of sale between the manufacturer and dealer, not for the first point of sale between a manufacturer and consumer/end user. In those instances where the manufacturer is selling direct to the end user a "constructive sales price" is used in order to all what t
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There is no such thing as a "true 3-weight." The AFTMA standards are for lines, not rods. .........
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Thanks. The only problem is that those instructions do not include the "constructive sale price" of a fishing rod sold directly to the end user at the first point of sale. That amount is 60% of the selling price. ..............
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Remember that the spine is not a thing - it is an effect. So when you assemble the rod the overlaps at the ferrule change the position of the overall effect slightly. It really doesn't matter as spine has no effect on rod twist nor casting accuracy. .................
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The Sportsfishing Excise Tax (FET) is based on the selling price. It has nothing to do with profit. If you sell a rod to the end user for $200, his tax is 10% of 60% of the selling price ($200) or a flat $10, whichever is less. In this case it would be $10. If you sold the rod for less than your actual cost, the tax is still due. ..................
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It is whatever you tell him it is. There is no standard for fly rod weights. Absolutely none. The number you put on the rod, is what it is. What Eugene suggests is a nice notion - I wrote an article on the very same subject and recommended that rods be rated for the line that will load them at 30 feet past the rod tip. For fishing in closer, upline by one. For fishing out very far, underline
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