U-40 brush cleaner is GREAT stuff. I won't use anything else to clean brushes,epoxy or permagloss. Jim
Forum: rodboard

U-40 brush cleaner is GREAT stuff. I won't use anything else to clean brushes,epoxy or permagloss. Jim
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Steve Rushing has the Secret! I put Tru-Oil on with a micro-fiber rag and then use my finger, wiping the finger with a coffee filter perioodically, until I feel it drag just a little. I use grey scotch bright between coats. I also prime my inserts with System Three Clear Coat epoxy and sand it smooth before I apply the Tru-Oil when I use porous woods.
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I have some 1" inside diameter rings. Sent you an e-mail.
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Have any of you tried this? If so what do you think? I see that @#$%& carries it.
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Rod bond is a good adhesive for nickle silver. I got the following advise from Ralph O'Quinn several years ago. Nickle Silver can be tricky to bond. He suggested scuffing the part with scotch bright and then using a VERY THIN coat of CA glue (super glue) as a primer. After the CA is dry bond with rod bond.
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where can you buy empty paint cans to store permagloss.
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Where do you get 1/2 pint paint cans?
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When I build rods for myself permagloss is my finish of choice. Epoxy may look better for the first couple of years, but after that it is permagloss hands down. Permagloss will not completely fill the guide tunnels, it has to much solvent and the finish shrinks as it dries. If I am doing a large guide, I will sometimes coat with a heavy coat of epoxy (I use system three clear coat, very thin) and
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When I build rods for myself permagloss is my finish of choice. Epoxy may look better for the first couple of years, but after that it is permagloss hands down. Permagloss will not completely fill the guide tunnels, it has to much solvent and the finish shrinks as it dries. If I am doing a large guide, I will sometimes coat with a heavy coat of epoxy (I use system three clear coat, very thin) and
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Thanks Ray. I just did as you suggested. I have to try this. Man there is some great work on the photo page!!
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Wow!! Antti Kymalainen's handle on the photo page is beautiful. I see how the rings are cut. How is the rest dune.
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4 lbs. Berkley Fire Line.
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I use permagloss on almost all my rods. My first coat is always a flood coat. I put it on heavy enough that it would drip off if I didn't rotate the rod quickly. I keep the rod rotating as I coat each guide. I let the first coat dry for 24 hours. Each additional coat is light. If the later coats are heavy the permagloss tends to build up at the edges of the wrap. The pemagloss has so much solv
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Go to the hardware store and get a cheap respirator that will handle the fumes from organic solvents and you won't feel that way. It's a small price to pay to take care of your health.
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I want to build a fly rod as a gift for a friend of mine. He fishes the Kenai for salmon and trout 2 or 3 or three times each year. He can spend all day flippin for reds when they're running. When he fishes trout he uses a bobber an 8 lbs. tippet and a bead. He is not an accomplished fly fisherman, but he is the most determined fisherman I have ever seen. The blank needs to be durable as h
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I use UL spinning rods for all my fishing. Their are three handle configurations that I like. 8" tennessee handle with the reel taped on. 8" tennessee handle with a small fuji plate seat. Regular handle with a fuji 20# reel seat. I can't stand the feel of a small graphite reel seat. I use the same size seat for UL rods that I would use on a salt water rod, because I use the same han
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Perma-Gloss is my finish of choice. I have been using it on most of my rods for th last 5 plus years. It is tougher and more flexible than any epoxy. It is crystal clear and never yellows. The first rods I used it on look like the were done yesterday. The only draw backs I can think of are the smell and the clarity. Because the finish is so clear the thread under the finish will fade if expos
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I have built ultra-lights on the blanks you intend to use. I like to start with a #16 Pac-Bay M series guide(This is the same style you were looking at) Followed by a BYAG #10 and then #6 alconite fly guides to the tip. I use a fly guide instead of a normal tip top to cut down on weight. I have also used M series guides on the entire rod. Both set ups work well. I believe the key is matching t
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Does any one still make or sell unsanded graphite blanks? I have always liked th way the look.
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When you inlay a feather over a good coat of epoxy, the feather looks like it is floating. This can be a very cool effect.
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I used YLI 3/0 dark green tipped with Persall's gossamere black. I applied a heavy coat of Gudebrod 840 allowed it to dry and applied a second coat. The 840 is very easy to use and preserved the green color very well. I did two wraps over a YSG #12 spinning guide and top coated one with Klass Kote using a spatula and on with Perma Gloss using a sabel brush. Both wraps turned out great. I going
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I do inlays on reel seats. I usually cut a slight depression with a gouge and a parting tool. Then wrap the depression with thread to give backround to the feather. Inlay the feather fill the depression with epoxy, sand and epoxy the handle. If you don't like the gloss, wet sand and use polishing compound or rotten stone to ge the finish you like.
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try a place that sells kite building supplies. Jim
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Try butternut. It's light and the finish brings out the grain a color of the wood.
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Thanks Don I'll give it a shot.
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Don I've been using Klass Kote over two coates of perma gloss and have liked the results. I want to try just Klass Kote on my next rod. How do you apply the first coat, flood coat or a light coat? Brush or Spatula? I have the gloss only. Jim
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Don I would Like to visit with you about your techniques with Klass Kote. I plan to use it on a Trout Unlimited rod over YLI silk. Any tips would be appreciated. I tried to e-mail but your e-mail is hidden. Thanks Jim
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Get U-40 syringes from Custom Tackle. The don't have the rubber plunger. For a few bucks you could get a life time supply. Jim
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