Don Someone on this board will give you the specifics on the repair. Ralph O'Quinn is one of the experts in this department, but I am sure an inner fiberglass sleve will work. When you are done if you over wrap with 3/0 or finer silk and finish with a very very thin epoxy or maybe diamondite or spar the repair should be almost invisible and you could save the decal or inscription. Jim
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Right now I get very good results with Classic Rod Coat and use Gudebrod 840 in place of color preserver. However epoxy has one characteristic that I don't like, it tends to pull away from edges like the end of wraps an the edge formed by the side of a guide. I think that is one of the reasons the bamboo boys prefer spar varnish, it behaves better on edges. I wish one someone would invent a fi
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Check out the ulrta-light and light action rods from Dorber.
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Glad it worked out for you. Butternut is on of my favorite woods, makes a nice light handle. Jim
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Eastern Red Cedar is really a Juniper and we have quite a bit of it in Southeastern Minnesota. It grows on quite a few of the bluffs down here. You might try Root River Hardwoods. Root River Hardwoods 1300 Highway 52 N Preston, MN 55965 (507) 765-2284
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Send an e-mail to Dorber, you will get a reply from Ray Bauer and he will go out of his way to assist you. Harry Boyd at www.canerods.com can give you some insight on Dorber blanks. Ray told me that their blanks are produced in Flippin Ark. and that they are trying to find a U.S. source for their Pre-peg
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I have been trying to find a finish I can use with a class of 30 students and have been experimenting with Gudebrod 840. The stuff is easy to use and looks great when it's applied properly. In the short run it appears to be plenty tough and is very flexible. Has anyone had any long term experience with it or any other water based finish. I can't believe that with todays technology and the conce
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Try these sites Hope they help Jim
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I think I found my answer. I have been using eastern redcedar which is really "Juniperus virginiana" whatever that is. I love the stuff the smell the color and the feel. Thanks for the info on finishing.
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Are these woods the same? Similiar? Does the color of Juniper change with age like cedar does? What finish are you using on the juniper? Is there a finish that can keep red cedars purple streaks purple? Thanks Jim
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I bought 200 rings from Donart 1 3/8" diameter with no hole unbleached at 30 cents each. Wow was I surprised! This is pretty good stuff! I have paid 5 times as much for cork that wasn't this good. When I sort through it I will be able to get several very nice handles. And the rest will still produce good handles. Got the tip on one of the bamboo boards.
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I love TN handles. I hate graphite slip rings. I hate aluminum slip rings. I don't mind plate seats, but they are a bit heavy for light rods. I think the design of the old sliding seat that Rick's Rods sells has merit, but they are a bit light in their construction and a little spendy. On my own rods I use electrical tape, but have trouble making a rod for someone else and handing them a roll of
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The solvents in permagloss are pretty hot and permaglass must have a pretty high ratio of sovlvent to solid. I put a flood coat on a guide wrap, and I mean a FLOOD coat, and as it cures it shrinks so much that the tunnel buy the guide foot opens back up at least on the larger spinning guides.
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Can you thin Diamondite. I would like to use it for the first coat on translucent wraps, but I always get a small bubble or two beside the guide foot.
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You might try one of the Batson Forecast E-glass blanks. Glass is pretty tough and the price is right. I just used on of their ultra-light blanks to make a spinning rod for a fourth grader and it turned out very nice. Jim
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want to use YLI 100 silk on a St. Croix SC 5 with the brown finish. I don't want to use color preserver and would prefer a green wrap. I tried color 221, but it looks black under the epoxy. Could anyone give me some suggestions either a green that would look green, or another color that would look good. Thanks Jim
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I've been fooling around with diamondite and was having trouble with small bubbles poping and leaving craters. I think my basement is to cold and the resin was too viscous. I warmed the resin just a bit (5 sec in the micro-wave) to the temp of luke warm tap water and the viscosity went way down. The mixture was water thin and stayed that way in the cup for at least 30 minutes. No bubbles at al
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Tried Diamondite ove a coat of Gudebrod 840, wow does that turn out nice! Easy, low build and no bubbles. Also tried Diamonite on wraps without CP and it seam to me that this stuf is very different than epoxy any fuzzy or piece of dust stands up like a mighty redwood. I will trim them with a razor blade an try a second coat. Am I dong something wrong? Thanks Jim
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If you want the CP to get between the tiny strands it would seem to me that thread tension would become an issue.
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I was reading a post on another board and a builder was talking about thinning one of the water based Color preservers with distilled water. I was of the opinion that most of the water based finishes were surface coatings and would not penetrate nylon thread and that all thinning did was wet the thread with water while most of the solids sat on top of the thread. I would like to know if I am rig
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Could anyone tell me how to flame ratan? Thanks Jim
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If you need top quality try REC rings with no hole and bore them yourself. REC has very nice cork, but it ain't cheap.
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How would rattan work over a foam core. Could I still use Titebond III as my adhesive or would I need to switch. 6 lbs. foam? Thanks
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I am building a spinning rod for a fourth grader. His mom wanted a rod he could use on our local trout streams, so I gave him one of my old graphite ultra-lights. After some thought and knowing the young man I figure the rod will become a two or three of four piece after a fall or whatever. So, I decided to make him one from one of Batson's e-glass blanks that I cut down a bit, I think it is an
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Mike I have mixed the M guides with Alconites and like the set up. I use a #16 M series then a #12 or a #10 Alconite spinning guide followed by 4 or 5 #6 alconite fly guides. I let the size and and angle the reel forms with the blank determine whether I use a #10 or a #12. I have also used a #20 BYAG in place of the #16 M and don't notice much difference. I use the M series on rods where I p
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I cut them on the lathe with a parting tool, then no sanding is required.
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Which sponsors carry them?
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Here is the link.
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I'm not an expert, but I have used a lot of Tru Oil. I believe it is a wiping varnish made with polyimerized linseed oil, but I don't know this for a fact. I do know that when Tru Oil is second coated it forms a mechanical bond with the first coat of Tru Oil. You can tell the bond is mechanical if you do too much sanding prior to the third coat, you will get a ring where you have sanded through
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Also if you don't care for the gloss of a tru oil finish Birchwood and Casey has a stock and sheen conditioner that will give you a softer finish when used over Tru Oil
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