The only way I've found to avoid it is to burnish with significan pressure on the burnishing tool. You might shorten the length to minimize it too. I put them on the bottom where they are less likely to show, but for the most part, once the rod is done and put into service, I don't notice any of the "defects" the wraps may have. I expect size A thread will show it less than bigger
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I doubt if one could measure any physical difference between before and after sanding unless one got carried away and excessively sanded them. The only attribute that could be reasonably expected to change is True Natural Frequency, but I doubt even that will change. It's easy to do , so you might want to consider it.
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Sight casting 1/8 to 3/16 max, often in wind. I'm not sure if I mentioned it, but I'm at this time dealing with travel rods, 3 piece spin. When the wind is too high or I'm having a bad day with the fly I go to the spin with small jigs tied as flies. I also use the rod for the occasional try for a cuda that shows up, hence the interest in having a little more power than the 15/71 that casts the
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What Tom and Daryl said. To eliminate it with an on top build start with a 10 double foot or Fuji RV6 about 19 inches from the reel level wind guide, then locate runners, single foot fly guides of your choice (some are a little higher than others) in a size 5.5 or similar, and locate them with the two line static load test at Anglersresource.net. The advantage of a two line load test
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Thanks, Russell. I have an 8 1/2 foot 6 wt fly blank built as a spin, and it does ok with the job on bones at long distances, but short cast accuracy is tough. Too "loose" and "floppy" to get the timing right. On the other hand the actions over 80 degrees are too fast to get the timing right. Seems like about 70 degrees works the best with the light jigs I use.
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I've been trying to find CBS on Seeker's web site to no avail. Nothing that looks right at Rodgeeks. Still looking.
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Certainly is confusing, IMO. I think the best thing to do is to look at the Materials section of the web site, where it explains the different materials , at least most of them. Then when you look at blanks, XRays and others, the material is, I believe, listed with the blank description. It appears that HM LMX Lambda is their highest end material except for C602, which is new and revolutionary,
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thanks!
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Well, like Edison, some of my ideas just don't pan out. I should mention that I've got what is almost a hotshot rod and don't like it anywhere near as well for casting as the 15/71 I've mentioned. It could be that the GLX mentioned earlier would be the answer. Tom: "The fast taper live bait blanks in glass with an outer wrap of carbon for a distance that stops short of the tip area is
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Maybe she could feel it land?! Lol Les, let's not get started on sensitivity again! :-) I also thought about a KR Concept using these for the Reduction train - and regular KB's and KT's for Belly and Tip Section guides If you want to maximize TNF/recovery speed then use these for runners, assuming there will be some and they will be lighter, and the metal guides for the reduction gu
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I think I should rephrase the idea-Emphasize rather than try to eliminate the difference between the stiffest and least stiff axes of the blank then build accordingly to take advantage of the difference. The article implies that there is some control over this-I expect that it is in fact practical if it were considered advantageous. I expect Thomas Edison was told a few times that "I
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There are finished rods using KR concept; Bass Pro/Cabelas has some, or did have some. Johhny Morris Signature is one. I expect the reason you don't see more is about cost/pricing. Here in the library is how I used to do it. I find the Fuji software and the use of KR Concept//KLH/ setups so good that I don't even test cast any more. I just build with Fuji guides to the software dimensions
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Thanks for the hot shot AA. Not far off from my blank's 81. I just don't get your argument about spine. The difference between power on one side of it and the other is measurable, like any other attribute of the blank Like length and weight. You seem to be dismissing it as an attribute of the blank when in fact it exists, and has an effect on the performance of the blank/rod. If it cou
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The spine may be an anomaly but it surely is a physical thing. We can measure it. We get different ERN's on and off spine. I think the manufacturers are trying to minimize spine, but if they "didn't try so hard," and worked to emphasize it, they might get a larger difference between the two conditions. A builder friend of mine has an Italian blank that has no detectable spine. Inte
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I've tried the very light fast tip and it doesn't cast all that well. Timing of the release is critical, accuracy not that good. At least I have not found one that works all that well. Slower actions work better, in my opinion. Casting on the "same axis" would not be a big issue. Most of the time in using these rods I'm casting directly overhead with two hands. Same axis//plan
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In the interest of casting light jigs and yet still having the power to fight powerful fish (think bonefish) how 'bout a 7 foot 2 or 3 inch 3 piece travel blank with an ERN of 15 on one side and 20 on the other? Strong spine oriented right, it would load well with light jigs on the casting motion yet have more power to handle the fish on the fighting mode. Does not seem impossible, but the sta
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What Tom said on the fix. To avoid in the future, I believe the problem most have with waviness over a long length like a decal is applying too much epoxy and not applying it with "longitudinal" strokes. I see all these comments about taking excess off, and videos with gobs of epoxy all over the equipment, and I just don't have that. And I get smooth epoxy over decals. Light build
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What Kendall said.
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What is the exact model number? I cannot believe a 1 inch butt diameter. I've built one M1 , but it's a finesse rod, really like it. I just built a 7 1/2 foot Rod Forge MH with KLH 20-10-5.5M + size 5 KB's and KT's and they seem adequate. I would not consider all double foot for a rod like this.
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Thank you Tom K!
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I am not sure that putting a new coat over a sticky coat results in a bad build. It could be that the sticky coat gets enough of the right molecules to finally cure properly. I would really appreciate one of the real experts on epoxy to chime in on this issue. It is at least worth a try rather than stripping and rewrapping a whole rod as the first step.
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Tom, put it on thinly and it should be fine. But I would also wait a few more days. With all due respect on mix volume, I do not think anywhere near 10 cc of each component is necessary to ensure proper proportions. I often use just 1.5 or 2 cc of each and have no problems. I mix for about 2 1/2 minutes, always use syringes.
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The O rings on one of my aluminum seats were in fact special, had a right and a wrong way to go on in order to fit into the groove in the nut, and had a very thin section size. I'm not sure that standard O rings will always work the same as the ones that come on the seats.
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I would think even Pro Kote, properly mixed, would cure well by 4 days at 70. It does take longer to cure than others I've used. I also in the winter cure OK at a little lower than 70.
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The numbers should not change, in my opinion.
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Failure to cure is almost always a mix problem, either wrong proportions or insufficient mixing. Use syringes to measure, mix for at least two minutes, making sure to drag the bottom material into the mixing, and take your epoxy out of the middle of the mix. To fix what you have, I'd wait some more time, maybe in a warmer room, then put on another thin coat of properly mixed AND TESTED epo
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You can also do a double dowel rig with the front dowel under the rod and the rear one over it. Tape it to hold it from slipping. When the load is applied it will be stable. The dowels should be placed at 10 % of the length of the rod. If the dowels are sunk into a piece of plywood, it can be placed in a vice's jaws to hold the rig, then leveled as necessary. Measure from the tip to the floo
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The tiptop still looks a little clunky, but the guide design is much improved over earlier versions, IMHO. I would be interested in how their weight compares with equal size titanium frame guides and tiptops, , on a percentage basis.
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I have used rigid polyurethane foam reel seat arbors for ramps off the front and rear of spin seats. I have painted them with "hardware store" paint to get a uniform color , either in white or ivory, and they take paint well. I then finished them with a couple coats of wrap epoxy and of all the rods I have done this with, I only had one failure. It was made from a foam grip form and
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Don't dress them.
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