Thanks, John. I remember that string of posts. I sometimes use Tru Oil on burl as it gives more contrast, brings out the "grain." Yes the rubberized gets darker, part of the increased contrast that I like. I use just one coat.
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I agree 100% with Roger and will add that I must have missed recommendations for 10 guides on a 7 foot rod. The rod specs sound like it's designed for something like 20 pound braid and most likely will work fine. It certainly will work fine with light braid, as mentioned by Herb.
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If looking for traditional action Quickline is not the rod. Not familiar wtih any MHX fly rods. If liking a faster rod, QL is a beautiful, light, very nice rod. All the fly rods I've checked for CCS run at the top of the "range" for power. i. e. Quickline 6 wt measures almost 7. Rainshadow 8 measures almost 9. Might want to try one line wt up on our blanks. The price for Quickli
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Everything. At least I do.
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" medium extra fast " I love it , Anthony. Give my regards to your wife. But I don't know what a likely AA is for that.
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Right on, Norman. I am a devout advocate of CCS, but as you say. . . .
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Right, Herb, great selection from Rodgeeks, and most are about 2/3 the price of the ones I selected.
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Right. Subjective. I got it. However, if you ask a bunch of anglers how they would describe a rod with an action angle of 72 degrees, most will ask you what you're talking about, and the rest will answer "fast." There is value in knowing how most rod company ratings correlate to CCS. Even though it's subjective.
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I would not go below 6 1/2 feet. That boy is growing fast and shouldn't have trouble with a 6 1/2 foot rod even today. And the casting ease and hook sets for a 6 1/2 far exceed any 5 1/2 I've ever seen. If I were going to build this rod I think I would go with a Rainshadow Revelation. They have a whole bunch of suitable blanks to choose from whether you want to go short or long. This woul
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Point Blanks CCS and RDA data are shown when you select a model then click "hard specs."
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I would not consider 72 degrees as extra fast. Yes, it's subjective, but for the rods I've tested that are labeled as extra fast the AA was always over 75, even as high as 80. I would consider 72 to be fast.
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Do you have a garage with concrete floor and a vise? If so send me an email and I'll show you my rig which works very well, doesn't use a big sheet of pegboard, easy up easy down when not needed. It is not as easy to use as the "official" big rig, but almost.
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You guys do know that not all pennies are 2.5 grams, right? From 1983 they are 2.5 grams. Before that they were 3.1, quite a difference, so don't ignore it.
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Rubber bands hold the butts to the rods quite well. I have a number of plastic bags of 10 pennies, 20 pennies, and a couple of 40. Also have two bags of lead bullets, each weighing 300 grams, if I remember correctly. This speeds the process of deflecting the rod. I have the chart for tip angle with a little line level mounted to it so I can keep it level while observing the indicator piece.
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Sorry Norm, didn't realize that. Thanks for your expertise. I guess I'm missing something as I have used that seat a number of times with no complications. Must have lucked out.
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An easy, much used, reliable way to handle it is to tightly wrap the butt in the area with masking tape to get the diameter you want. When you glue it up be sure you totally encapsulate the tape so it won't deteriorate if water gets in. Don't think that this is not reliable-it is bullet-proof. I have no problem with Norm's solution - it is also bullet-proof and a little (very little) light
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Just looked at the Mudhole sets. They don't make sense to me, and don't even agree with the Fuji sets in their catalog. Do it like Norm. Size 16 strippers will work for some lines, but a 20 will work with the same lines and more. A concession to Roger's way of thinking. :-)
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I consider the blank color first. All colors will go with black, grey , charcoal, white. For other blank colors look at a color wheel on line and try to find your blank. The color across the wheel, and many near it will look great with your blank. Then, if you keep your trim silver metallic, gold metallic, or blank color metallic with a fine wrap on the outside to give it definition, you will
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Logic would tell me to look for a fast action fly rod blank that will cast line that weighs about 1/2-1 oz. Come on fly experts, about a 12 wt? The real issue is loading the blank properly for casting. A "fast" fly rod will be more "moderate" than a spin or cast blank called "fast." I think this is feasible, but need some expert fly guys to chime in.
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I've had no trouble with the Fuji recommendation for reduction guides if I set them up with spacing such that I get the bullseye, then place the first guide where I want it, moving the reduction train as a set to try different stripper positions. Then the running guides are set by the stress test. Your initial selection should work well as should the set with the suggested 5.5 L. If you want t
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The only preference for the 90 degree guide that I've seen is to put it on the same side as the handles so when placed on the deck of the boar it will face up and not into the deck. Since weight and sensitivity are not issues with this type rod I would think double foot guides would be preferred. Most guide manufacturers rate their two foot guides using line pound test as the rating factor.
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CP protects the original coloration of the feathers and thread. If you don't use CP with feathers they will come out almost black, certainly much less attractive. Same for snakeskin. It also provides a stable platform on which to put the inlay and when it dries, the feather will be secure. often inlays are better if done in several layers, so CP keeps the under layers in place while you top w
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I have never applied a feather inlay to thread that has not had CP already on it and dried. Might work, but I don't know. I think you need a hard finish which will allow the feather to move freely. Feather inlays are not as hard as they look. I have never washed feathers before; cannot understand how the feather could be washed and then look like it is pristine. I do as Don does. I'll only a
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I agree with Norm, but I would use the K series where I can get the big foot of the KB. And use locking wrap.
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Very interesting Jim and Roger. Roger, when I got back into building in a serious way about 10-12 years ago I had an extensive discussion with a true expert builder who advocated that the line should contact only the lower half of the first guide on retrieve. I argued for basically your method. I never truly understood or believed the "lower half" method-didn't make sense then or now
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Roger and Thomas , thanks for the info. Roger, yes, I cast with two hands all the time, but feel no preference between the two styles while casting. I don't mind the smooth smaller diameter of the split grip when I contact it. I seldom use rod-holders, so that doesn't influence my decision. I prefer split grip for cost, styling, and that it offers another area on the blank for info/decals. S
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Roger and Thomas, please explain why you prefer what you prefer.
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I think the guide match with the line is more important than the rod or the reel. Rod is certainly last in priority. In the Anglers Resource catalog there are simple, clear, recommendations on the reduction guides. Very easy to follow and you can order guides with confidence without having to order extras. After reduction guides are selected the running guides, KB and KT are a piece of cake
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I forgot to mention that I would use two KB's , then the KT's.
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I see no need to buy any extra guide sizes. The reduction guides are right on; I have built that setup a number of times, it is the Fuji recommended setup, and as long as you don't want to use braid heavier than 15, it will work fine. Test cast with a couple different locations for the reduction set. I don't think the placement of the running guides based on static testing will affect castin
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