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Current Page: 106 of 182
Results 3151 - 3180 of 5444
5 years ago
Michael Danek
The Rod Geeks people are very good to work with. Call them with questions.
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Michael Danek
I have used borh flex coats and Pro Kote and my conclusions are that the major difference between Pro Kote and the Flex Coats is cure time. Pro Kote took so long I was always worrying, even over a day after application. The differences between the Flex Coats is obviously viscosity, and I prefer the light over the high build. I most always have a nubbin or something to fix after the first coat,
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Michael Danek
It's not as much about the micros, it's about the reduction train. I would start with the running guide size of about 5 minimum (it they would pass any knots you may want to use) and then try to find a reduction train that will work. I wouldn't even consider trying to make 20 or 25 work (on a spin setup),and 15 would take pretty large guides, like 30-20-10 or something like that. For these tes
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Michael Danek
I'm not sure I'd trust some of the wine corks I've seen. Some are pretty poor quality. I'll stick with foam cores when I need a core.
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Michael Danek
Lamson Guru II will handle anything fishable with this rod and costs about $250. For fresh water you can go with less, but if you want also to be able to go salt, the Lamson is a very capable reel at a reasonable price.
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Michael Danek
I say don't overthink this. Reel angle is, IMHO, highly overrated as a significant factor in rod design. Do a 27X, select stout single foot spin guides that will best cast that 30 pound mono, and experiment to get the best performance. The real issue is 30 pound mono, not the reel angle or lack thereof. I would start with a stout 30 guide, reduce in no more than two more guides, and use mat
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Michael Danek
Got it, didn't think of that.
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Michael Danek
Roger, your plugs will be in 1/8 in increments, right? What about blanks in between. ? I used to drill through then mix an epoxy/shavings mixture, plug it, sand. Now I usually drill through then plug with an auto interior trim rubber bumper available from auto parts shops. Gives a good , soft feel to the end and a pad on which the butt rests when the rod is stood up on its butt.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
I tried heat gun, too easy to overheat and get wavy finish. Also, unless you have a really clean area, it will stir up dust, fly tying feathers, etc. It can be done well, but easy to screw up.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
If you ever lose a rod overboard and cannot retrieve it for a day or two, you'll probably be happy if you used waterproof glue. Don't ask how I know this. Also, I've had rods I've used in Canada that didn't leave the boat for a rainy week. I think waterPROOF is the wise choice.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
I suggest putting the stripper guide where you can reach the line easily when reaching for it. Maybe a little stretch to reach it, but you want to make that important action easy and natural. Advantages of snakes over ceramic: MOst likely lighter, so more sensitive rod with faster recovery than if ceramics were used. Sensitivity probably not an issue for this rod, but recovery speed may be.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
I suggest putting the stripper guide where you can reach the line easily when reaching for it. Maybe a little stretch to reach it, but you want to make that important action easy and natural. Advantages of snakes over ceramic: MOst likely lighter, so more sensitive rod with faster recovery than if ceramics were used. Sensitivity probably not an issue for this rod, but recovery speed may be.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Expert advice for handling this troublesome product above- not the brand, the viscosity. But. . . For the future it seems the obvious choice is to go to a lower viscosity product, and use two coats if necessary. Easy to avoid footballs, fewer bubble problems, less need for heat or diluting. Overall, more reliable high quality wraps. If one is new to Pro Kote medium build, be aware that it take
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Ernest, I didn't mean the rod had "extra cork," or any judgment on the design of the rod, only that the rods I build, for lighter duty fresh water fishing, have much less cork. Therefore they displaces less water. And would, therefore be less likely to float. In spite of being very light. This string has really been interesting, a mix of jest, facts, physics, myth, and NIH. I'm sur
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
If helium replaces something heavier than helium it will make the outfit lighter (infinitesimally so in the case of its replacing air) and therefore it will take less water to be displaced in order to float the rod. In effect the density, therefore the weight, of the outfit becomes less. Think of using something like lead to put inside the rod. It won't affect the displacement, but it will aff
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Shocked at meeting me? Me too. I've never been to the IRCBE. The facts about a floating rod and reel outfit are that the weight of the water displaced by the whole outfit must be heavier than the weight of the outfit. It the weight of the water displaced is less than the weight of the outfit, the outfit will sink. Like a boat. While a light blank is part of the "equation," i
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
I'll get right at that recalibration. Has to be salt water, and a plastic reel. Lot more cork on that rod than I use, also. The real secret is a really big surface lure in the keeper. :-)
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
I love Point Blanks, but I have to admit my @#$%& detector went off big time.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Do the Rod Wrapz abalone products really capture the appearance of real abalone?
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Jim must be off fishing. Looks to me like no slim SIC's in tiptops yet, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a regular SIC tiptop with slim SIC guides. Only you will know.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Why not simply use Lite formulatoins of epoxy, then you will not be screwing with the molecular link up that is designed into the epoxy? Epoxy doesn't "dry," it cures due to the chemical reaction of linking molecule to molecule of the resin and hardener. It is a chemical reaction like combining oxygen and hydrogen to produce water. Putting other molecules into it has the risk of mes
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Make sure you use the right Madeira-Polyneon. I bought some rayon one time by mistake, big mistake. I'm sure you also need CP with it. I'm sure with its use with decorative wraps, it will shine just fine.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
One added caution, since epoxy is relatively soft, be very careful to wrap tightly so no moving of the thread after wrap is required, because it most likely won't move.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
I believe that a leaky syringe will introduce air, also. Move the syringe "plunger" slowly, and possibly get new syringes. I left high build epoxies behind years ago, see no need for them. Regular Pro Coat has a very long working time, so long that one sometimes wonders if it will ever cure. It will if properly mixed.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Bill, if you do the epoxy first, to get the build needed to make them smooth, then finish with Permagloss or similar, you'll have the best of both, build from the epoxy and hard from the Permagloss. You've probably already figured this out, but just in case others have not.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Ask the sponsor.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
As Tom says, the higher the load on the rod, the greater the advantage. IMHO, the ONLY disadvantage to a spiral wrap is that they look goofy looking down the blank. That is a defect in my design, not the design of the rod, so unless you have the same defect, spiral wrap it, simple spiral works great, easy to lay out. Put your second guide 90 degrees to the side that makes it and the reel handl
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
As Tom says, the higher the load on the rod, the greater the advantage. IMHO, the ONLY disadvantage to a spiral wrap is that they look goofy looking down the blank. That is a defect in my design, not the design of the rod, so unless you have the same defect, spiral wrap it, simple spiral works great, easy to lay out. Put your second guide 90 degrees to the side that makes it and the reel handl
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Implied in Roger's statement is that for EVA, being more compliant than reel seats or other rigid components, should have its length completely supported. You can also use, if the dimensions are suitable, reel seat shims completely supporting the EVA.
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Michael Danek
Winn came to our rodbuilders gathering and showed a number of salt water rods claiming that they worked fine. I think they were surf rods , if I remember correctly. i suggest you contact Winn and ask what the limitations of their grips are for saltwater rods of the type you are interested in. It could be that you and the responders are talking apples and oranges.
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 106 of 182

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