Mike, what does far beyond help mean? Splintered a lot at the fracture? If yes, then an inner + and outer sleeve sometimes offers enough support for the pieces to make it work. Been there, done that. With little to no action or power change. So far so good.
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Right on, Norm.
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Regarding Robert's second video, with the two guys talking about the seat- that sure looks like a 2 guide reduction train.
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I caution those who use ink jet decals-not all ink will be resistant to sun fading, especially some colors more than others I try to avoid doing my own because of this problem. Black is probably the most fade resistant color I've tried, but it's not "bullet-proof" (Canon OEM ink). I've not tried other brands.
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Roger, will the Speed Ball product not run if epoxy or CP is brushed over it? Norman , do you have a favorite brand of nib? thanks, guys.
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Roger, the tape has weight, so not zero. The foam core suggestion would result in a much more comfortable seat with negligible added weight. But I think the question was relative to a reasonable solution that would have decent comfort and durability. I would think, without having data, that a skeleton seat would weigh no more than about 1/2 ounce. Like the SKSS or PacBay skeletons. Would be
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I have only built a 2 piece 3 wt in Rainshadow RX6, and would characterize it as a traditional action. It was to the high end of power as measured by CCS and the AA was not indicating mod-fast, in my subjective opinion. It needed a heavier line to cast right for me-the 3 wt line I had was too light for it. I don't have the specs handy, but can get them if needed. I'm not expert enough to co
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The most important thing needed to recommend guides is the line that you will be using. Are you planning to pass knots? Then plan for them. I don't think max sensitivity is needed, so better to go bigger, like 5 or 5.5, or even 6.rather than smaller. Ice a possibility, then certainly go with 5.5 or 6.. Regarding other aspects, I think for a rod dealing with big, powerful, fish, a foregrip is
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Thanks, Roger, will consider it.
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Some manufacturers rate their guides by the pound test of the line one intends on using, so that helps.
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Thanks, Jim Ising. I never thought of that. Yes, Roger, I thought that the moisture was the cause. I've been reluctant to use a heat gun because of the likelihood of blowing dust around. I have done it in the past. And yes, Roger, I know how you deal with dust, but my build bench is a 6 foot resin table in my bedroom. So I just try to keep it as clean as possible, don't do fly tying at
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I recently went a little overboard with puffing on the straw to break some bubbles, and when the epoxy hardened it had sort of a satin look, not the hard, shiny, glossy, look that I love. Before putting another coat on I thought I'd try the plastic polish that is used to bring cloudy auto headlamps back to clear and shiny (the cloudy look on the headlamps is right on the surface, for the most pa
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Since you'll get some cushion from the mono I'd look for a blank of the length you want with fast action and a lure rating that fits what you want to throw (in order for it to load properly). Am Tac Bushidos are excellent blanks at a good price, as are Rainshadow Revelations. I also just got a very good review of the Liberty blanks from GitBitOutdoors.com from a builder friend. They also have
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When I said the rod I really meant the system,, which is what we are dealing with when considering a few mm 's effect on system performance. And if a very subtle change in angle between the line and the first guide can make the system a poor performer, then what about that great big angle between the line on the spool and the level wind guide? I have a T-wing, and it's very good. But I also
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Now that the guide train is figured out, a thought: When a few mm of 1st guide height makes the difference between a well performing rod and a poor performing rod due the change in line angle entering the guide it makes one wonder why the angle of the line on the reel spool to the line guide on the reel doesn't make every rod a poor performer.
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Good advice Norm. I forgot about the finish. I go with 5.5's on casting rods because if I decide to use leaders with braid, they will pass knots better than 4's, and I doubt if there is a significant performance difference. Versatility.
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Pro Kote is a fine finish, but be aware that it takes the longest to harden to the "dry" state, at least of the ones I've tried. When I use it I don't touch the rod for at least 24 hours. Check for hardness by touching the epoxy in the pan, not the epoxy on the rod. Since I almost invariably have something to repair on my first coat, I use two thin coats of lite (Flex Coat since it
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Great blank, and I love Fuji guides. I usually recommend, based on my own experience, for starters to use less expensive blanks for first builds since the quality of the builds usually improves a lot between the first few builds. Next time consider the RV reverse guide for the first guide, more belly guides on such stout midsection blanks, and 5.5 running guides for better knot passage (if yo
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Combine the advice from all above. Good stuff. But after the first , don't be constrained by any one guide system. You will want to learn and grow and make decisions based on what you've learned and what you or your customers want in a rod. Also, there are options available from other companies that any one company cannot offer.
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Responding to what you are trying to accomplish, the flex coat color preservative probably will meet your needs. It will sort of "set" the guides allowing you to inspect, but is not hard to remove. Guides treated with it will not move unless a significant force is applied. The only issue I see, and I don't think it significant to your goal, is that it will preserve the color of the
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A narrow trim wrap standing by itself, like the old bamboo fly rods, is something I could use some help on . The only way I know to do them is with a "nail knot," and that works well at 4 or 5 wraps, but is there a reliable way to make a two or three wrap free standing trim wrap?
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Scott, those of us used to using KLH are used to seeing 20-10-5.5 and it looks normal to us. Not to worry about bigger steps than what used to be considered normal.
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With that light braid about anything will work, in my opinion. I once did a 2 guide reduction to size 6 fly guide runners (25 - 10 or 12, then the runners) with Alps Y guides. My son has used it for about 4 years with a Shimano 4000 with braid, about 15 pounds, I believe, and it casts fine.
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With that light braid about anything will work, in my opinion. I once did a 2 guide reduction to size 6 fly guide runners (25 - 10 or 12, then the runners) with Alps Y guides. My son has used it for about 4 years with a Shimano 4000 with braid, about 15 pounds, I believe, and it casts fine.
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While you're at it, try 4.
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I'm with Roger and Norm. Repairs can be done, not that hard, actions are not much affected if done right. But if I had broken a cheap rod I'd just replace it and be done with it. Use the old one for repairs on your next break. (Yes, glass is ideal, but graphite works pretty well too)
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I like the trigger on a trolling rod. Really helps in those times when I'm holding the rod rather than having it in a holder. And I've never found a trigger in the way in a holder. I used to spend a lot of time flatline trolling for king salmon and used holders that oriented the rod mostly horizontal off the boat. Something to consider. Different strokes.
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when applying Tru-oil you don't need anything other than your hands. Put a few drops onto the surface and work it around with your hands. This will give an even, very thin coat. You may do a number of coats like this. Don't hassle me because cork doesn't absorb, this works. Like you would do with a gunstock. Nice, soft, satin, look. I agree with the comment on cactus cork-it looks great wit
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I respectfully believe an inner sleeve is not necessary for a break at this location. Read the Library article on rod repair and use the over sleeve and it should be good to go. Using an inner sleeve , if unnecessary for good structure, will only slow the action down due to the excess weight. I agree that about 2 inches of overlap is about right. No more, for sure.
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No one has answered the question of toxicity, but I believe it is wise to use a mask when sanding carbon fiber. It has to be a problem for the lungs. It is hard for me to justify sanding blanks to change power when I know how many great blanks there are out there that cost less than $75 and come "ready to use," the right power, the right action, good finish, no risk of creating toxi
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