But Roger, that is a crap shoot. Yes, it could work. But, it could not work. And you won't know until you have made an irreversible move on the blank.
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Very valuable post by Spencer.
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I have built two Quicklines, both 4 piece nine foot, one a 6 and one an 8. They are in fact, based on CCS, what most would call a fast fly rod action. And the gloss black is beautiful. Both cast well. You stated they are reasonably priced, and you are right if you look around a bit. They are not priced the same at all sources. Both were at the top of the power rating for their weights, so yo
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You can get a Daiwa Coastal for much less than $200 on @#$%& from a 99.9% positive seller. Based on my experience with other Daiwa reels, that is what I would buy.
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A venture like this without the use of objective testing before cutting will most likely turn out like Ron Zimmerman's project. I also agree with Roger that cutting much of anything off the tip of modern blanks will have major detrimental effects. It is not that hard to make a CCS testing rig that will allow measuring any blank whether uncut or simulating the cut whether it be tip or butt. B
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Lots of good reels in that price range; I prefer Daiwas, but Daiwa is not the only maker of good reels. Do some research, consider drag as a significant factor for salt. Do internet searches for reviews of reels you are considering. All reels at any price point require rinsing in fresh water after use in salt. Every time. Read the directions.
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If the fish are shallow, as they are in the fall much of the time in drowned river mouths, then casting and simply "flat line" trolling something like a deep Thunderstick Jr. in one of the patterns with green, chartreuse, and /or pink should work.. I agree with Phil about the energy required, and furthermore think the planer boards are an unnecessary hassle. If the fish are shallow,
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I would appreciate it if someone can explain how adding guides to a blank can change the power of the blank. I get sensitivity, and maybe action, if guide placement is way off, but don't get power. Herb, Fuji was clearly talking about corrosion, not weight. I don't mean to be a pain, but I just don't think the posts are adequately addressing this new builders concerns. IMHO, no, your b
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You will need a base of epoxy on which to put the decal.
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I wouldn't break or cut it, but in the pic the pieces do show misalignment. If in fitting your sleeve you cannot be confident of getting the rod straight, then a clean cut may be in order. You don't want a rod with an offset part way up. I think the repair will be structurally just fine either way, cut or not cut.
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I wouldn't break or cut it, but in the pic the pieces do show misalignment. If in fitting your sleeve you cannot be confident of getting the rod straight, then a clean cut may be in order. You don't want a rod with an offset part way up. I think the repair will be structurally just fine either way, cut or not cut.
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But I see no reason why it would not work with wrap epoxy. I have a rod with white polyurethane (seat shims formed by sanding and painted white) that were covered with Pro Kote and the decals AND the white are still color true after about 5 years and probably 5 weeks running around on a flats boat in Belize and the Bahamas. + hanging by an east window for the rest of the time. Give it a try.
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I see no value in a 4 guide reduction train. This may be the application where the minimum number of guides is advantageous in the interest of giving fewer sites for the ice to form, fewer guides to try to clean of ice. I have done 2 guide reduction trains and they have worked just fine. I don't know the optimum size for icing prevention, but I would do as few as possible of both running and r
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Casting is not a priority, right? And the advantage of getting most of the guides on the bottom is significant. Since you are a builder you can pretty easily fix it if it fails. I recommend using the best solution you've come up with, possibly lowering the first guide to reduce the torque, and go with it. If you use stout guides it will probably work fine.
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I agree with Norm, CP with regular thread looks better. While it has been argued otherwise, it is my opinion that both NCP thread and CP, by preventing penetration of the epoxy, result in a less strong result. By using CP or NCP thread the wraps are more easily removed if one wants to remove them. I almost exclusively use regular thread with CP, locking loops on single foot guides, and have
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Keep in mind also that the mottling and blank show-through on lighter threads with darker blanks is affected by how tight the wrap is (not tension, but wrap to wrap tightness, or tight packing). It also is a factor.
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Thanks Phil and Spencer, valuable info.
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I just found a giant tarpon guide who prefers 20 pound "class tippets" on his tarpon rigs. I believe that's about what the pound test of my big drum rig was. But I'm still interested in knowing about how strong fly lines are. Anyone know?
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The Orvis can be ordered either way, can be converted at home with a tool included with the reel. It's more involved than the Lamson which converts without tools. Go to the Orvis site on this reel and open the link for the reel's manual. It also shows an exploded view of the reel, which is neat. It has what looks like a substantial one way bearing with a multi disc drag, unlike the Lamson whi
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Most reels, the Orvis included, are easily switched, but you should be able to specify, as above, how it's set up when you order. Or go to a local store, same price and they often will fill it with backing free.. Herb, if one is going to use leaders of 15-20 pound test, why back with 30? Do you know what the pound test of a typical fly line is? I know when anglers go after the big tarpon th
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Lower priced reels: I have a Lamson Guru II which has served me well for two years on the flats. It's so simple it's scary, but it works just fine. Orvis has a new one , the Hydros SL, that I have not used, but Orvis just doesn't put junk on the market. I have read good reviews on it.
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I just uploaded one, no problem. Remember that you have to log in at the photo page to reveal the "upload" button. After that it's pretty clear.
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Agree on the reel. There are a number of very good sealed drag big reels for about $250-$300 now.
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Use the simple spiral method and there will be no guide that is appreciably side loaded, or torqued, by the line. No problem with slow action. Use double foot guides for the first three. As low as possible for number two.
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Herb, not to mention a 52 pound black drum. Seth, go with it and welcome to the club. You are going to have a ball.
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Just a quick experience note about redfishing in LA, the guide carried a 9 wt Orvis Helios 2 in the boat. That's what he thought was the right rod for that fishing.
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When working with bright colors the use of color fast thread or color preservative is necessary. Do your best with the colors then don't look at the two rods together again. The new one will look just fine.
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I'm not familiar with the St Croix, but the Eternity is an excellent choice, IMHO.
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IMHO the most important factor to consider is not so much the fighting of the fish, I expect stripers to be in open water, so you won't have to try to horse them. The bigger issue is being able to cast the flies you want to use, especially in the wind. I would expect Donald is right with a 9. All fly rods I've checked CCS on have shown power at the top of the range for the weight designation,
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Thomas, prefer it because it stays clear better than others?
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