Bill- If possible-involve the kids in the building process. Fishing with them using rods they helped build would make for some memorable moments.
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Here you go Bill.......
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Michael-measure the width of the outside of the face of the spool-face being closest to the tip of the rod.
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Seems like a different situation than those you mentioned,Tom. I don't profess to have the industry knowledge that most here do but it seemed to me that All Star had a glut of domestic made blanks on hand when they moved their ops offshore. They became available in large numbers at reduced prices.... There appears to be a limited number of available Loomis blanks available now with what I see
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I will second the Fujis that Karen has at Bingham-I like them a LOT
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Kevin-Are you sure you want them THAT badly?
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I try to keep the "gobbing" to a minimum and babysit mine pretty closely for a while to keep finish from climbing the leg. I had a size 3 ripped out recently that was Forhan wrapped. Apparently 65 lb braid was wrapped around the leg when hook was set-pulled it out like the old "string tied between a tooth and the doorknob" home dentistry trick. Only plausible explanat
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Thicker shouldn't matter-should cure at same rate as what is on the rod. As said-the reverse would be worse.
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Roger- If building a spinning rod you can get by with less grip behind the reel-your hand is very seldom in contact there. Like Mike said-a ramp is sufficient. On a casting rod you will need a longer grip behind the reel-in the 3"-3 1/2" range because it is what you are holding on to when casting. If you have big hands even that length may not be enough. I recently built a r
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Rob- You mentioned guides with no rings-if there are any like that I'm not aware of them-no grooving problems at all with the ringed ones I've used. Their smaller profile make them less likely to be damaged by misuse. Forhan wrapping no more difficult than on larger guides-when you get to that point you are past the harder part-getting them properly secured to the blank prior to wrappin
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I also am inclined to go 1 extra micro like Robert does-if I am going to err, I want it to be in that direction. Insignificant increase in weight-an Alconite 4 weighs .05 grams
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Gaps in thread where decal would not be touching anything might expose adhesive to finish and cause a problem-have to try it-holler w/results. Burnishing decal over bare thread could cause thread texture to show through decal also.
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That info may change the score.
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Jason- Check Backlash Tools on sponsor list-I think they have a tool for holding the pistol grip so it can be turned with the rod
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Spencer- I sure wish you had three. If anyone else has some I would LOVE to have a spool. Chris
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Chuck I had a similar experience with Micro Set. I believe Bill touched on the reason. I applied a waterslide decal after finish had cured only a few hrs. past the dry to the touch state. Used Micro Set as usual-where it ran to bottomside of the blank caused that spot to swell. Using TM as well. As soon as I realized it I cleaned the area with distilled water-finish cured but area was still
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I also suffer from what I call color ignorance. There are too many of them to suit me. I was told by my wife that the color I painted the dining room is mauve-whatever the heck that is.
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R. Carlson--Tom's right... R. Glabach-- You and I have arrived at the same destination after travelling similar paths. Chris
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Rohit- It is not a polish-it has no waxes or silicones in it. Those might play havoc on your attempts to apply finish later. I have no idea what type of paste is used with the abrasive. There are also polishing compounds available-much, much finer abrasive-used to remove fine scratches from painted surfaces. They will not provide you with the matte finish you are looking for-they are
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Automotive rubbing compound will give a uniform matte finish-the abrasive in it is very fine and uniform. Apply with a wet sponge and keep surface wet, rubbing lengthwise. It has no silicones in it that could mess with thread finish application. Go slowly with whatever you use. Chris.
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Bruce- Try cleaning that spot up with the rod stopped-move the filter instead!
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Tom- Sam's method obviously works for him. All I use is waterslides from Dec. Conn. and I have never used CP over one. I haven't used all the different brandsof epoxy but the ones I have used cover fine for me. The folks at D. Connection are the ones to ask. Chris
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Flake size should be proportionate to guide size. Micro glitter............
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Mudhole has some nice military peel and stick decals-used a USMC one recently-nice.
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Proper placement of the guides will probably have a bigger impact on distance than guide type, provided that you use the smallest size of either type appropriate for the end use and the minimum number needed. This is assuming the chosen blank has the proper casting weight range and appropriate line size is used. Chris
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Tom- those spots could be where bubbles popped-air comes out of wraps when you are not looking-either way what Sean recommended should work.
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I admit to having doubts about the 3/4 rpm motors that Mike Barkley mentioned but they work at least as well as any other speed I've tried. Also they are very, very inexpensive.
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Lead does work better for the reasons Denis stated. I use round jig heads, grinding off line tie and straightening wire hook to use as a handle to remove ball when mixing complete. Also use bullet sinkers-cutting off pointed section and inserting a piece of wire into hole for a handle. Gives option of using different sizes for different batch size. Handle to hold makes a quick wipe with alc
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