3M is what I find most often available in the auto parts stores-works fine
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I also have a bubble or two "rear its ugly head" occasionally. Is there a way to "fix" this short of waiting and recoating after 1st application cures? Nothing I have tried works. Picking, poking, heat, etc. I know what an ounce of prevention is worth but to have one bubble ruin a 3 or 4" long stretch of finish over a decal is very frustrating and time consuming t
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Phil- The lite versions usually have a longer pot life-hence working time. They also cure to "dry to touch" and "hard enough to fish with" more slowly. I hope that is the answer to the question you asked. All too often in conversation and here one question is asked and some other answered. Often a good answer-just not to the Q asked. LOL My rod room is above
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That is your best bet. Glue it into the seat before reaming-the arbors are very light and ream easily.
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Tim-if it has worked for you all these yrs I sure wouldn't change now.
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Looking forward to the condensed version of the CCS
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I'll get a look at it in a few days when I see him...he doesn't have the funds to make any additional investment-told him we had nothing to lose by attempting a repair. I will read again the library article by Ralph and take my time in giving it a go. The relationship with him has brought me several other sales-he has bragged on this one quite a bit. With that in mind and his current situatio
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Charlie, if that were an option that would be OK by me. He spent more for it than he probably could afford and after having a little snip job on himself he found out the wife is 6 weeks pregnant. Too little, too late. My intentions were to repair it for him with the same profit in mind that you mentioned. Just wanting to know if repairing it without cutting out the damaged section was possi
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I just started giving with a rod a bottle to maintain water levels in Tr. Mtr. batteries. Quart spring water bottle-hole drilled in cap-1/8 " vinyl tube to reach the bottom. Squeeze and fill. You'd think you gave them an extra rod. Maybe they will buy another with money saved on new batteries.
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I built a flipping stick for a friend a few months ago. While it and some other rods were standing in his garage a rack of steel shelves fell on them-only one rod was broken-you can guess which one. He did not realize it was damaged until making 1st pitch with it several days later and it was flexing in an area it never had before. Damaged between reel seat and butt guide. He understands it is
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Blue T-rails from Rockler are very nice.
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Roger..... if they are all rolling that well you should probably give the brakes on them a look. After cleaning mine last week I added a round of wedge and did a track bar adjustment-she's much better in the corners and I have probably solved that tire wear issue I was having.
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Mo- The cork sheets aren't all the same-some may not be tough enough for a buttcap. This is pretty obvious but when you split the discs Jim mentioned... glue the good flat "factory" side to your grip and shape the side that is cut. Glue joint will be a little cleaner
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I have had a customer rip 2 guides out-occured on hookset-braid wrapped around them on hookset only explanation-like pulling a tooth with string and a slamming door. Broken Forhan wraps visible. Strange that it was the two in front of the butt guide.
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Most blank vendors I've dealt with will measure blank diameter at various spots if asked. Record the measurements on different blanks as you use them-next time you will know.
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I can't figure out why moving one guide makes it necessary to move 4 others. Mike-I made a similar gadget from a foot off of an old casting reel-attached a level to it and because the reel foot had holes through it I ran a bolt through it from the bottom. I could attach flourescent line to the bolt and run through guides with a weight hanging off tip. Worked OK but outside still seems better
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Billy-most of my blank testing involves jamming the tips into the ceiling-I build in room over garage -angled ceiling except in center of room-lots of opportunities. Advantage working there is quick access to curing room-adjacent attic-100 degrees.
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Something I struggle with and continue to spend too much time doing is aligning guides. Found the other day that viewing in natural light out of doors helps me tremendously. Perhaps it is that it is basically 360 degree source of light-no shadows and brighter than indoor lighting. Pointing rod at a bright blue sky with sun overhead or at my back seems to give a much truer look. Chris
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Phil-I agree with the your 99% assessment. But I think it l makes for interesting reading. I don't pretend to understand all the technical stuff. I like Billy V's injection of practical sense-gives my brain a chance to rest between the other stuff. I think nearly all blank and production rod builders attempt to balance performance and durability. Interesting also to watch the occasional p
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Hmmmmmm
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Hmmm....
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George-that sure reads differently now that we know he insisted on THAT blank. With THAT in mind he handcuffed you before you started. Your rebuild option may now be to remove the finish from the blank after removing the guides. He may not be receptive to that. I would make an effort to convince him it is the wrong blank and that there is nothing wrong with the build.......but you've probably
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Mark- If he is going fishing without the minimum necessary to start a fire he is making a mistake IMO. Can be a lifesaver.
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You got lucky that time, Mo.
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Harold-I don't think you would want to use wax on a blank prior to building. Some contain silicones. The polishing compounds used by auto painters are probably safe- if not they would have the same problems with paint as we would with thread finish. Testing on a scrap of blank is always a good idea. Read a comment here once that said a bare blank could be polished with a piece of Kraft paper
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Mo- Shot in the dark.....flourocarbon line may give a clearer look than mono. 4 lb test would give comparable strength to A sized thread. One of those test and see deals.
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That's good info. Further proof that nothing works everywhere or all the time. Don't know what size you are using --but you may not have to go up in size much to make that problem tolerable and still realize a weight savings over what is found in factory rods. A compromise. Using the smallest ones that will work.
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Mark-I don't see any difference. Same rule applies regardless of speed-apply the correct amount. You have to put on a sufficient amount to level and no speed, faster or slower is to correct putting on too much. If anything the faster speeds could make an overapplication more obvious. Chris
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I use both
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Any of those will work......I prefer slower speeds. On Mike Barkley's suggestion I tried one that turns at 3/4 RPM (.75 RPM)-works as well or better than any I've used. It's like hand turning without actually having to be there.
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