I have some All Stars that almost the entire rod will turn white in as little as a heavy dew, doesn't have to be raining-doesn't have to be used that day-just laying on the deck. Blank finish, guide finish, long finish runs over decals.....white.
Forum: rodboard

I thought I was losing my mind/doing something really wrong but I have had problems with Chromaseal repelling epoxy as mentioned in this thread. Isn't CP absolutely the last thing that should do this? Had not questioned it in this venue because I had convinced myself that it was my fault somehow. Replaced bottle I was using/different brushes/allowed more drying time....those have not correc
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Bobby....lots of ways. A nylon macine screw and nut works well for the sizes you mentioned. Carry a size or two to local hardware dealer..pick a screw size that fits ring closely. On the smaller 3s and 4s I use a pair of square jawed mini pliers that I glued inner tube rubber to the jaw faces to both grip and protect ring while prepping. Faster than using the screw and nut-no threading an
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Part of the fun would be the info swap that took place after all is said and done.....swapping your reel for mine for a few test casts-technique comparisons, etc.
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Heard same thing......hmmmm. Might be supplying blanks for their factory made "custom" line of rods.
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Billy-I think the concern is with the extremely small foot on the smallest micros as to whether there would be sufficient surface area to maintain adhesion.
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You've got to start somewhere, Brian. Strap'em on temporarily and do some test casting-that is what will reveal to you where they should be for your particular application. You could use that averaging method and get an average level of performance. No substitute for testing with the two different reels, line sizes/types etc.
Forum: rodboard

Jason-I don't think it is possible that your actions caused the bends. The color change could have made it more noticeable.
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Jim-it sounds like the line's stiffness is resisting the direction change that occurs as it leaves the tip of the rod-taking a curved path because it is not limp enough to turn sharply.
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Tim-you were never threatened with a visit from the "27X Police" You sure spent a lot of time and space saying "I'm not building mine like that and you can't make me". I think alot of folks kept coming back to this thread hoping to see something of substance in what you were saying, not "I just don't like the way it looks" You must have participated in som
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.. A rod that casts the greatest distance makes "normal" fishing distance casts effortlessly. If I can build the rod in such a way that it will cast 130 ft with some effort, it will cast that 50 ft I need it to with a flick of the wrist. I will be much less fatigued at the end of the day.
Forum: rodboard

Tim-I'm confused...a couple of posts up the page you told Richard it may work on his rod but not yours. Then you stated that you tried that method and you didn't like it because of the way it looked. Do you dislike the method because it didn't work or because of how it looked on a particular rod?
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I think not. The trebuchet's counterweight is accelerated downward by gravity-increasing tip speed. The counterweight's mass greatly exceeds the projectile's mass. Weights added to rod butts might have to exceed lure (projectile) weight by 100X to achieve that effect-if that is even possible. Your push/pull reasoning also applies during backcast to load the rod-pulling on the butt while push
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Alex I see your point...line path changes within the cast are limited to where line contacts guide surfaces with rod held at different angles-little change for sure
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Don't see any difference-angles changing with almost every cast.....in an attempt to change lure presentation on repeated casts to the same target....as boat position changes relative to target. Rod tip up/down...left/right---often changing more than once within a cast or retrieve..no two the same. Not enough room in the boat for that many rods-not if I have to have rods set up to cast and ret
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As Alex states- direction of pull changes while fighting a fish. That to me says no guide setup will result in a straight line path as pull direction changes without constantly turning rod and reel to follow. That tells me that keeping the line as close to the blank as possible--using shortest guides that will perform properly -will result in lowest amount of torque regardless of direction
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Mike-I sent you that many myself! I was the only one?
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I think it is called the NWTF....Nat. Wild Turk. Fed. Check their website. Might be something there that you can use
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Barry-getting the size just smaller than your measurement is the way to go. Ream a little to fit.
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The trend with manufacturers is obviously toward lighter guides without unacceptable losses in durability regardless of the guides' size. Mikes design looks like killing 2 birds with one stone. This is not re-inventing the wheel. It is an improvement on an existing product. If this design reduces the frequency of single ft guides from 10s to 2s being pulled out, how can it be seen as anythi
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New ideas have to start somewhere-Mike's design is a winner in my book. Could be designed with a little extra metal in the leg making them more resistant to bending. Benefits would "outweigh" neglible weight gain. Not something we are likely to see soon, but.... Mike- conventionally constructed fly guides have a foot....guess that would have to be called a toe.
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Turning the guides around with foot facing fwd would accomplish the same with no weight gain
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Earth to Rolly!!..........Earth to Rolly!!!.....he must be out of range. We may not get further details on his particular failure. I think the score remains..... SUCCESSES-many FAILURES-few I did not state earlier---but on my failures guides were torn by the roots....locking wraps broken.......and undamaged guides riding on the line between secured guides. Both occured o
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Jeff-I think that most are tinting there epoxy used for ramp making-eliminating the problem of yellowing. Mudhole has a kit of 5 or 6 colors for tinting finish used in marbeling and colors can be bought individually. I use a 30 minute epoxy-applying it like rod finish with rod turning-levels nicely. I mix it in my finish mixer-way fewer bubbles than by hand-allowing it to mix a couple of minute
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A wise man once said "you can tear up anything". Same wise man said to me "Son, I think YOU could tear up an anvil". DBL foot guides in these cases probably would have prevented all of them. I don't like the downside of that idea (weight) and I don't think it will occur often enough to warrant such drastic measures. Larger SF guides shocked in the same way would pull out
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I know that rod lockers have taken their share of guides, but in both cases with mine that could not have happend. One is owned by a guy that fishes out of a Fish & Ski-it does not have a rod locker. The other has a rod locker that will not hold a 7 1/2' rod. The scenario Tom described is a possiblity-similar to what I suspect happened-braided line the common denominator. Rolly I am ass
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Rolly-I've had it happen to 2 different rods I built-both flipping sticks-both using braid-both times on hookset on not large fish. Only thing I can figure is braid wrapped around guides and they were snatched out like tieing a string between a bad tooth and a slamming door. 1st rod it was 2nd guide back from the tip and the 2nd rod it was the two guides in front of the butt guide. Only reason
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My Dad had a Martin of about that same vintage. Sounds like one that should be cleaned up a little and placed on the wall. The one we have is on the bamboo rod he used with a wooden plaque behind it...a little brass plate with a few words on the plaque. It is on the wall at the lakehouse where the 5 sons who got their 1st fly casting lessons with it can see it and remember simpler times.
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I remember using them being discussed here in the past. Might be able to word a search in the right manner and find something on them.
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Unless you make the new one larger in diameter you may be faced with the same thing occurring. If customer is willing an EVA foregrip would lessen the odds of it happening again-it sounds like the blank flexed deeply into that end of the rod.
Forum: rodboard