Thanks guy's. I went home and sanded those imperfections and applyed a very light coat over them. I'll see later how it turned out. Didnt look like any grooves were showing. I dont know why I have the hardest time applying epoxy. There is always something that goes wrong. Thanks again. -Mike
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I have some imperfections in my guide wrap epoxy. I thought I heard someone say that you could try sanding the imperfections (ie: small bubbles and thread tags) out and then putting another coat of epoxy on? If this is possible what grit sandpaper would folks recommend using so it wont show through on the final epoxy application? Thanks, -Mike
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Andy, heres my suggestion. I just finished building a 6'6" Loomis spinning rod. I used American tackle titan (titanium framed) guides with Nanolite rings. These guides are considerably cheaper than the Fuji Titanium framed SIC's. I am not sure how the Nanolite will hold up to braid, but should be no problem. I used these guides in a size #30 for the stripper, then size #16 and size #10 .
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In every interview i've ever read with Trey Kistler he never gives up where his blanks are made or who makes them. It is a point of many discussions. I personally dont know what all the hype is about his rods. Ive fished the LTA's and held and fiddled with the top of the line LTX II's. I dont get all the hype? I know they are light in overall weight, but poor balancing makes them feel extremely t
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I originally took a 6'6" rod and cut it down to 6'2". Ive decided that with the rear (butt) grip (1 7/8") I can cut an additional 1" off and be able to cover the scratch with a winding check and wrap on the check. The logo i have for the rod says 6'2" but It'll be a 6' 1/2" rod. Thanks for all the suggestions. I think that will be my best option. Thanks for all th
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Thank you. I will go buy a white eraser in a bit and give that trick a try. Even if it just dulls it down so it doesnt stick out like a sore thumb. However the scratch goes into the finish. Its not a scuff mark. If that doesnt work i'll look for a gray sharpie. Man this @#$%&, I just got done telling my father in law (thats who its for) how much better my rod will be from a store bought IMX and
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I am building a spinning rod on a G-Loomis IMX blank (matte finish). I noticed last night when I was shaping and fitting the grips that there is a scratch on the blank. It is right in between where my split grips will be on the rear of the blank. Is there any way to fix this? It is not in a place that can be covered with a thread wrap or any other type of material. Can it be sanded or am i pretty
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Cant wait to see the issue about forming aluminum and other metals. Maybe I can make an "up to date" end cap like the Matagi's and not have to pay an arm and a leg for them. I dont know why there are no american companies that make aluminum end caps like the ones at the bottom of this page ? I feel they are the ultimate finishing product (especially the last one on the bottom right). Th
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I havent seen the Fuji titanium framed SIC size 30 spinning guide for less than $30 (and thats wholesale). If you know of somewhere that has that guide for less please, please, please let me know. Thank you, -Mike
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Thanks for the quick replies. I figured that was the case. The rod im building is a spinning rod for my father in law so I wanted to match it up nicely. The cost of the Fuji's is just too much to justify.... I mean $30 for one size 30 stripper guide!!!!! I just cant come to terms with that. I think i'll stick with amtak for all the guides except the tip and hopefully the difference with the fuji
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I have never used American tackle guides, but I was looking at the "Titan" series with titanium frames and Nanolite rings. I wanted to know if there was a big difference between American tackles titanium color and the Fuji titanium framed SIC color of frames? Wondering if I had half of one and half of another on a blank if it would be very noticable or are the frames from the two very s
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Ok, thanks for the info guy's. Will the 4000 print decals. Also will the dye-sublimination capable printers print logo's? I think that is a feature you can turn on and off when the printer has the capability? Thanks, -Mike
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So I guess I would have to go up to at least a 1300 to print metallics? Will the Alps md-4000 print decals? Looks like it is different (white) than the other models and has a built in scanner? I want My logos to be metallic so I guess the 1000 really would,nt do me any good. Thanks for all the help. -Mike
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I am looking to buy an Alps 1000 printer in the next day or two and I have a couple questions. I have used the search function here and found some very helpful info, but I just have a couple specific questions. -Do I need a speacial printer cable? I am running Windows XP. I was reading that the original cables dont work with usb ports??? -I am pretty sure I can download the drivers for XP o
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I've always thought of it like this in the 6'6" range.. 782 = Medium/fast 783=Medium heavy/fast 784=heavy/fast Are your postings above how you look at CTS blanks, or all fast action casting blanks in general? Thanks, -Mike
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Looks like I was wrong about the Lamiglass XMG blanks. I got the weight I posted last night from Mudholes website. It shows there that the 783 is 1 13/16, Lamiglass website shows 1 3/16. Thats a huge difference.... Lamiglass LSJ783 1.2oz. THATS WHAT IM TALKIN ABOUT!!!!!!!! I got that weight from Lamiglass website.
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Thanks for the reply Tom. I have no doubt you are busy. Thank you for taking the time to fill me in on the process. I should hopefully get them next week. I cant wait to get my hands on these mags. I wish I could see a pic of the Lamiglass finish Bill. I was almost convincing myself to buy one just to give it a shot, but I dont want a shiny blank. I guess your gonna keep your reel seat a secr
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I dont understand the CTS blank ratings. Can anyone with CTS experience please tell me how the line to lure weight ratings are possible?? These are for the Elite inshore baitcasting blanks. Im trying to see what to consider a Medium Heavy/fast rated rod. Line Weight Lure Weight 1-3kg / 2-6lb 5-12g - 3/8-7/16oz 2-4kg / 4-8lb 8-20g - 9/32-3/4oz
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Thanks for that info Enoch Tay. I have found that only one of the blanks mentioned here and on my other thread compare in weight to Loomis IMX and thats the SC-V. GLX is a much better material than the IMX so I know these are no where near what I am looking for. Too bad the SC-V doesnt come in a matte gray or black.... Would seem that the blank would be lighter if they didnt have the clear coat o
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Bill, I am familiar with the st-croix SCV blue blanks, But have never held a castaway blank. I really only like matte gray or matte black (SCIII) blanks. I do use a split grip/no foregrip design on all my rods, but no acid wrap guides. However, I have never seen the reel seat in your pictures? Is that something you made, or is this something I can purchase??? I agree that a swimbait rod probably
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I am currently using GLX blanks exclusively due to thier lightweight and sensitivity. I am interested to see if a comparable CTS blank is as light or lighter and as sensitive while still being stronger. If anyone has an elite series baitcasting blank and has the ability to weigh it I would greatly appreciate the specs on the blank you have and the weight for that model. Spencer, I definately
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thanks for the responses. I just found out about this magazine and cant wait to get some copies to read. -Mike
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Has anyone here used a CTS Elite baitcasting blank to build on? I am wondering how they compare weightwise with G-Loomis GLX blanks, lighter, more sensitive??? say a 6'6" medium heavy/fast compared to the same. Does anyone have a weight chart for CTS blanks? Specifically the Elite Baitcasting and spinning blanks? Thanks for any help, -Mike
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I just subscribed to rodmaker magazine Sunday 9-8. I also ordered a few back issues. Has anyone else ordered back issues? If so what was your experience in the amount of time it took to receive these? Does it take the same time that it will take to receive new issues? Or were they sent quickly (ie 5-7 days?) Thanks, -Mike
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