Thanks for the encouragement. Well I went straight home last night and got to work. I wrapped and aligned all the guides on the spinning rod including hook keeper and logo area and got the first coat of epoxy on it. I'll apply the logo tonight and put it in another room then glue the handle for the one casting rod that is already sanded and real seat cut and arbored, put that aside and start sand
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Thats about how im feeling Jay, although im trying to keep saying that I can do it.......I leave for vacation early morning Sat 6-28 for Lake champlain and all the 6# Smallies I can handle.....So realistically I need to have the last coat of epoxy on by the evening of the 26th...... I will post by the 27th and let you know the outcome and if I still have my 8-5 and wife ;-)...... -Mike
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Boy if I had 5 dryers these 4 rods would be simple.....Kind of.... With one dryer it makes each rods epoxy completion time including the waterslide with Microsol and Microset at least 36 hours (flexcoat lite)...I can get the handles attached and guides wrapped in pretty quick time, but the epoxy/decals have got me worried...
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I like your tactic Billy.... I will prove you wrong. My main concern is epoxy drying time, including waterslide decal application and drying...... -Mike
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I have a challenge for myself that is going on right now. I wanted to get some feedback on who thinks it can be done, who has done it and hopefully some feedback from those that have done it on how to keep it organized for maximum efficiency... I have 4 rods to build by Friday June 27th. All bass rods, 1 spinning and 3 casting and I dont have all the parts in yet, but enough to complete 2 of t
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Steve, I sent you an e-mail with a couple questions. Thank you, -Mike
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I spoke with Bob. Thank you for the help. -Mike
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If anyone has either of these blanks I am looking for reel seat fitment. On the C812 i am looking to see what sized exposed blank casting reel seat will fit @ 13 5/8" from the butt up? And on the C783 I am looking at putting an exposed blank casting reel seat 10 5/8" from the but up? If anyone has one or both of these blanks and the ability to take the measurement for me I would rea
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Thanks guys. -Mike
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I spoke with one of the board sponsers this evening and he told me the RX7 was a gloss finish??? If anyone has used this blank or has one laying around would you mind letting me know if it is a gloss or flat matte finish?? Or if anyone knows where I could see a pic of a rod built on this blanks that may help.. Thank you, -Mike
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Thanks John, and thank you for the response William. -Mike
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I guess there is alot I dont know about finishes. So is it matte or glossy? I am looking for a matte finish with no clear gloss over top... Thank you, -Mike
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Can anyone tell me if the RX7 line of blanks has a "matte" finish? On their website it says "matte clear"? The clear part throws me off. Does it have a gloss finish or a matte finish? I am looking at the ISB782 blank for a spinning rod. Thank you, -Mike
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Is the second blank the exact same length as the first? I had this happen before where I ordered two of the same blank models and one was longer with a different tip size and different action and after speaking with the manufacturer they said they must not have trimmed the tip of the blank. If there is a difference in length you may be able to trim the tip and get the same tip diameter and it ma
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Take a look at the CTS blanks, Fishsticks4u carries them . These blanks are very nice and feel great in hand. The Lamiglass blank I mentioned is very nice. I just built a jig/worm/senko rod on the same blank i mentioned above, cut to 6'6". Also try the guy's at Swampland Tackle. They have been saying alot of good things about the Castaway XP3 blanks. Good Luck, -Mike
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I would look at the CTS blank model EST16668. This blank will be more like the st croix 3c66mf in action, with a little more power. Also Lamiglas XMG50 LMB 843 cut to 6'6". Also Never overlook the G-Loomis MB783 GLX... And although i've never tried one I have heard good things about the Rainshadow RX8+ blanks, look at model RX8+C783. There are plenty more options for good blanks and im sure
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Im with Chris. I love the aluminum Matagi trim rings winding checks and butt caps. But I admire all the others who have the ability to make thier own parts. I look at the pictures here and am amazed at what you guys can think of and put to use. -Mike
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or left
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try fishsticks4u they are a sponser to the right
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Has anyone used the 5 minute ultimate epoxy gel from Lamar for installing tip top's? Im wondering if it holds up well under extreme heat and use. I thought it was comparable to Rod Bond, but I guess this is a different formula because they say you can use heat to remove the tip? I want an easy to use tip top glue that will never move. I was using Gudebrod rod cement and didnt have a problem all l
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black wraps w silver trim, and silver guides
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Bryan, I like my EVA to slide down the blank and stop roughly 6-8" before its intended home on the blank. You should have to use some good force to slide it into place. If the grip is slightly bigger than where it will rest on the blank (like 2mm bigger) you can use some fiberglass mesh tape to build small arbors onto the blank so the foam gets a nice snug fit. make sure you create a wat
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Thanks for the info/suggestions. I will have to definately rethink my rod pricing and customer knowledge tools. I guess it's one of those things you dont spend too much time thinking about until it happens, but is a very integral part of being able to continue to run a succesful business. -Mike
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Thanks for the info guy's. I told him he would have to pay me $40 and I would replace the rod for him. Since the blank manufacturer is replacing it for free (even without warranty) i am basically only charging for shipping that i paid to and from the manufacturer. I will still take a very small loss on the reel seat on other parts, but I dont want to leave a bad taste in his mouth, he only used t
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I sold a rod a few months ago and the customer called me last week and said the rod brok while hooking a 1 lb bass. This is a crankbait rod so no monster hookset involved. I thought for sure it was a defective blank. I removed all the components I could and sent the blank to the manufacturer. They told me they saw an impact mark (I looked thouroughly at the blank and saw none) and it was not
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Joe, did you tie the line/weight to the tiptop ring? If so how did you prevent flex in the blank and the line pulling downward (with the blank flex) and pulling the tip off? Sounds like a good idea. -Mike
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Thanks guys. I didnt really think anything was soaking into the graphite fibers, just trying to explain that it was saturating rather than beading up (just like a breakfree surface should do). I dont think it will cause any problems, but it looks like a dirty rod all day when fishing with spots all over it. And after spending so much time making these beautiful rods, that drives me crazy ...
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Thanks Tom. Any suggestions on a product used to accomplish this?? Do you have any experience doing this? If so what type of work is required, meaning is it brushed on, sprayed on, dipped in, rubbed on???........Easy/hard to do. Any baking required??? You also have e-mail... Thank you. -Mike
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I recently purchased some blanks that had a matte finish. I was preparing the handle area to be water break free with a scottchbrite pad and noticed it gave the blank an awesome sheen and looked much better than the original matte finish. I decided to scotchbrite the entire blank and it really looked great (just like the Lamiglas XMG50 finish, if anyone is familiar). What I didnt think about w
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Well I took the suggestions recieved here and applied my first coat of epoxy to my decal area this monday. It still came out wavy..... Then I applied my logo tuesday. I was determined to do something to get this finish to level for me on my second application. I applied cp over the logo to try and eliminate the orange peel/poc marks i was experiencing, then I began to apply my second coat of epox
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