Henry, that is the most logical thing to do, and it never crossed my mind..... Anthony, When I first described my problem to Ralph from Trondak at the show in high point, he told me more than likely i was applying too much epoxy and that was the reason for the waves. So since then I have tried to apply thinner coats, but still get the waves.... I use lite build formulas, I have tried a few but
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well, tonight is the night i'll be applying epoxy. Im gonna try the suggestions here. I'll try to get my wife to help me take pics tomorrow afternoon and see what it looks like (only she can figure out how to set our camera to take good pics)... I'll get a rod that has waves, and then the one i do tonight for comparison. I know its hard to explain, especially when it doesnt make sense in my he
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Im so confused..... 5. Rotate the rod by hand, 180 degrees, as often as required to keep the finish even around the circumference. When you see the finish start to get heavy on the bottom side, flip the rod 180 degrees
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Tom, you say anybody can do that???? I cant. I sure wish I could but as of now I cant. I am amazed at the finishes shown here. So to sum it up, I should apply a thin coat, wait till it gets heavy on the bottom of the rod and flip it 180 and conitinue till the epoxy starts setting up. So no swiping of exess epoxy, just let it flow?? I still dont understand if the epoxy is flowing and stops
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I usually apply one thin coat then apply the waterslide decal then a second thin coat. But both coats end up wavy. Bob, the thread area is a small part of the area im finishing. The waves occur in between the wraps. But the wraps are burnished and packed tight. Tom, the finish in the picture you attached is PERFECT. God, I wish I could get mine even
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Tom, I have the rodmaker issue that shows how to properly apply epoxy. I must have mistook "as soon as you see the finish start to get heavy on the bottom side" as, wait till you see the epoxy sagging and wick away the exess? What do you mean by "heavy"? It seems if there is any saging or heavy part that the epoxy is flowing. If it is flowing it has to stop at some point
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I am still having trouble with wavy epoxy over my decal area. The area is 4 inches long. I have tried everything that I have read here and learned from Ralph at the show in Feb. No matter what I try I am still getting waves in the finish??? I tried super thin application of epoxy believing I was using too much, I apply it lengthwise and let it sit till it sags, then swipe the sags off and let
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Thank you Mike. It sounds like it should be self explained, but with chemicals, you never know.... Thank you again, -Mike
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I read the tuorial on working with diamondite II, it says to mix for approx. 45 seconds then let it sit for a few minutes. My question is, what if after 45 seconds the mixture is still marbelized? Do you still leave it and let it sit, or should you mix until the marbling is completely gone then let it sit? Common sense tells me to mix until the marbling is gone, but alot of products dont rely on
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Matagi makes a very nice looking weight balancing system.
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With the Grizzley lathe are there any other parts i need other than a mandrel? Will the mandrel fit right on it? If so and i am using it for 3/8" I.D. only what size mandrel do i need? will 3/8" work, or do i need like a 7/8"? I need it to be tight enough so the grip wont slip on the mandrel right? Tom, what type of tool will i need besides sandpaper? I will be using pre shaped
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I am interested in purchasing a lathe. I currently have a pac bay power wrapper but I cannot get a perfectly even spin on it with a cut peice of old blank and it makes my grips have an uneven diameter. I only make two or 3 grips, all out of eva foam and all with an inside diameter of 3/8". I have no clue what I need or what would work for this? The longest grip I will ever turn is 13"
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I just wanted to post a quick thank you to Robert Tignor and the folks @ Fishsticks4u. Fantastic to do business with!!!!!! -Mike
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Thanks for the info guy's. Robert, you have e-mail...
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Is there a difference on the bottles of threadmaster and threadmaster lite? I ask because I bought some threadmaster lite and no where on the bottles does it have the words "lite"? I mixed some up this afternoon and it seemed very thick. All the websites that show threadmaster reg and lite show the same bottles with no distinction. Thanks for any info you can provide, -Mike
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Very interesting.....
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Is the T8 a new CTS model, or is it a new graphite/carbon or other material they are using to reduce weight on a current blank? Is it only used on surf blanks? Thanks for any info. Keep me in the loop also. Thanks, -Mike
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Thank you Tim for taking the time to explain the benefits of Diamondite to me. I used it last night and it was a breeze to work with. I will apply my second coat tonight and cant wait to see the finished product (I even used the CP for the first time).... I have a general question about applying over waterslide decals?? Should I apply cp on top of the decal before applying a second coat of di
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Im with you Steve, what is the T8 seies? Is this a CTS blank? What is the new material????
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9+tip means there are 9 guides plus the tip. You'll have to remove the tip as described with a little heat and pliers or grab with paper towell and gently pull it off. It is very easy, remember only use a little heat from a lighter (maybe 2-3 seconds while waving it back and fourth on the steel tube). Then call Shimano and ask what tip they use on that particular model blank. Ask for ring size an
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Thanks Ron. I have done a search, and I think i printed your instructions for using diamondite, and I also printed Tim Campbells instructions. I think between the two I should be good to go. I just reread Tims post and he says the drying time for the cp is 15-20 minutes, so i got it now. I will apply cp over my waterslides after the microsol has set for 24 hours, then diamondite. Hopefully i can
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Thank you for the info guy's. I hope this stuff makes life a little easier and faster. I have never used cp before. If it is required for using waterslides with microsol and set, how long does it need to dry before applying the diamondite? That is the longest part anyway so adding another drying time might be a deal breaker. Thanks again, Mike
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I am interested in giving diamondite a try. All of the instructions i have seen while searching say you need to apply colotr preserver before applying diamondite. I only use NCP thread which does not require the use of CP. Is cp required to help activated the diamondite, or will i be ok not using cp before applying the diamondite? Thanks, -Mike
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I bought one ATCV blank last winter to build as a bass casting rod. This blank was 6'6" medium heavy power fast action. I fished the rod all last season. The blank is strong, I never had any problem. Finish was not very good, it had wipe marks all up and down the blank, and the blank was heavy in weight compared to a loomis, st croix or Lamiglas XMG50. I think Bob is Gary's nephew or cousin
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I like triple fish "Spinning RX". Small diameter, very low memory, great abrasion resistance and very low stretch. I like 8lb for all of my spinning. I fish for bass only. -Mike
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I did have to ream the arbors. I tried my best to center them but since the factory hole is so small there was no way for me to put something around my drill bit to keep it centered as I pulled it through. I was able to get an arbor shim in and just about get it perfectly straight yesterday. I really appreciate the quick responses yesterday. I was in a panic as this is the second problem i've had
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By looking at the back of the seat there is a line that runs up the back and I could see the line running to the right and not centered with the blank. Thats how I assumed it was the seat. Im to the point now where I can get the blank to move with pressure and am pretty sure I can get some brick foam shims in to center it? I hope.... I dont have a spare seat or i would cut this off with a hand sa
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The seat wasnt so bad that it would affect the line flow from the reel too badly, if at all. However just knowing it is off drives me crazy. I cut off the foregrip to gain access to the seat. I have the seat mounted with the threads on the bottom (uplocking). I cut the arbors into 3 sections, a small one for the top and bottom and about a 1 inch section for the middle of the seat. I have begun di
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I attached a reel seat yesterday (a size 17 Fuji deluxe spinning seat) using rod bond. I was looking at my work this morning before I started wrapping guides and noticed the real seat was not centered and was affecting the look of the foregrip. I imagine the brick foam arbors i used were not bored perfectly centered? Since the rod bond has cured how can I fix this. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Is 7 hrs long enough for FC lite epoxy to cure before applying a waterslide decal? The rod is inside my house @ roughly 68-70 degrees. Thanks, -Mike
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