I also built several rods on Shikari's. Very nice blanks, IMHO. Especially liked SHIII series
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Can anybody tell me what are recommended line/weight rates for dicontinued G.Loomis SM844-2 blank?
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Bill, Apart from Rod Bond that is really great product and my only choice for the handle assembling, you can use Gudebrod Rod Cement (#833), especially if you have not much time. RC dries faster and is a bit easier to work with because it's 1-part, not 2-part like Rod Bond
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Thank you, Tom
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Tom, Although saw the topic "Outside North America" in the directory, yet didn't find any listings... Nobody wants? Not good... Will try to be the first one :) Just emailed you my info
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Sure, Randy. I never even thought about it because I've red all the cautions on the bottle before using it at very first time :)
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Thanx, Stan Will try it. Although, now I've already solved the problem for myself. Just not trying to put as much PG at once as I usually do with epoxy. I found that it's what was the reason...
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Paul, On my experience, you can get bubbles in Permagloss when you try to apply too much of it with one coat. Just try to apply less...
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Mo, I'd definitely use 4 wt. fly blank if I want to cast 1/4 oz lures and lighter. Myself, I have a very little exrperience with using fly blanks for building spinning rods, but it tells me :) that the rule 1wt=1/16oz is pretty correct...
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I agree with Tom, on my experience, #25 butt guide is quite enough for both 2000 and 2500 Daiwa sizes. And my guide setups are quite the same as Tom's with the very little exception: I usually use "high" 7 guide instead of 8 "low" one
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Mo, I've recently held several XML's in my hands. They reminded me a bit All Star's Elite blanks which I'm familiar with. But XML seems to be lighter
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I got to Rodbuilding.Org a couple of years ago by a mere chance, a link to the site appears among many others within search results at Ixquick (one of meta search engines). Unless it happend, I would definately not ever think to build a rod by myself. Now I've built 20+ of them, learnt a lot and hope to learn much more... Thank you very much for your efforts, Tom
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"Match" guides are ones with very high frames (e.g. PacBay M series). The reason I used them on UL rods was to reduce the weight added toward to the rod' tip as much as possible (#4 weighs almost nothing) without spending a lot on guides (PacBay M with Hialoy rings are inexpensive). But if you plan going with Fuji Titanium, you are OK too: these guides are feather-weight :)
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Mo, I think 5's for such rod will be quite enough. Like Spencer, I also built with #4 match guides on 6 lb test blank and hadn't any problems with that rod.
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I use to see both Gudebrod and PacBay metallics... Looks to be made by different manufacturers, difinately
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Ken, 15 mm ID (or something about) is 16 size :)
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'Cause fly blanks don't have as beefy butts as spin ones, 15 mm ones will fit in the most cases, I believe.
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I used to order some AllStar Elite blanks, and there were no decals supplied, too
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Thanx for the compliment, John :) Probably, I'm wrong and there were Cabelas XML FLY blanks formerly?
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John, You can get it at Cabela's :)
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Samer, As to me, 6 rpm drying motor is good enough. I myself still use 2 rpm one and have no problems with getting even wrap finish. The only "but": I use Regular/Lite epoxies ans have no idea how it works with High Build finishes.
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Greg, If the price is important, I would probably try Rainshadow RX7 ISP781 model. Did not try the new RXs yet but built 7 rods on the "former" ones, manufactured at Cascade Composites. IMHO, this blank is more UL than you can expect it from the given lure test.
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Walter, You may try Gudebrod #840 Rod Finish instead of CP. It's one-part and not darken thread as much as Perma Gloss and 2-part epoxy finishes. I didn't use CP yet, but tried #840 and it almost didn't chage the original color of the thread at all.
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Thank you, Bill It was no doubt for me that those blanks are Rainshadows, just was a bit curious because of their different finish... Once again, thanks for the explanation Respectively,
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And I'd like to be the second LOL Just recently got one of Shikari's SH III blank for the first time. And it's probably the best blank within IM6 range I ever held in my hands.
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Keith, To be true, I wait several days before applying epoxy over PG... When the coat of PG stops smelling , I apply epoxy finish, no earlier. Maybe your problem was caused Perma Gloss didn't cure completely
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Thanks for reply Spencer. Apart from 1081 model I also used to order ISP781 blanks from Bingham. And I saw a lot of non-green RX7 here, in Moscow. These pair of 1081 do have a somewhat different finish, that's why I asked the question
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I've recently purchased a couple of US-made Rainshadow RX7 IST1081 blanks that were on sale at Bingham Enterprises (and, of course, thanks to Karen for the great service :-) )... I'm quite familiar with RX7 blanks manufactured at Cascade Composites, but these two look a bit differently. They have quite matte grey finish, not a-bit-glossy one I used to see on RX7's... Just a matter of curio
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I also use Perma Gloss as first coat, then add one coat of Gudebrod Regular or Flex Coat Lite epoxy. As to me, the main reason using PG for primary coating is its hardness, much stronger than any epoxy finish.
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Jeff, But RX8+ are American-made blanks. Or I miss something :-(
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