Thank you, Dave I do know that RX7 are being made in China for last couple of years or so... But have noticed that new XST are priced good deal higher. That's why I asked the question
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Can anybody tell where new Rainshadow XST blanks are made? I mean are they American-made?
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Gentlemen, Did anybody ever try spray paints for Vinyl/Cloth for finishing blanks?
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Spencer, I agree, Talon makes good things, IMHO
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Spencer, I had a chance to talk a little to Dwight Waggoner, president of Talon, when he'd been in Moscow back in December. He said that Angler's Workshop blanks are not manufactured by Talon anymore.
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Jeff, As to Shikari blanks in general, I'm with Spencer: they are very nice stuff
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Just a matter of curiousity - Japanese factory made spiral wrapped rods:
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I use quite the same finishing technique as Randy: one coat of Permagloss, then one more of Regular/Lite build coat of epoxy. The only difference is that I let Permagloss to set up for a couple of days or so, before applying a coat of epoxy
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Thank you, Ralph
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BTW Did anybody tried and use Gudebrod #840 1-part finish? I use it from time to time to "seal" decal area but never tried on the whole wraps
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I'm 38 and started around 3 years ago... Just occasionally found Rodbuilding.Org while surfing the Net and looking for a rod to buy :)
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"...Graphite is carbon fiber, but not all carbon fiber is considered graphite... the terms are often and usually thrown about interchangeably..." That's what I guessed. Thank you for explanation, Tom
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I'm feeling somewhat confused with using the terms "carbon" and "graphite", when it comes down to fishing rod blanks... Well, it was no big deal to learn the difference between these 2 kinds of C in terms of their molecular structure etc. But what still stays unclear for me... Reffering to the materials contemporary rod blanks are made of, what is usually meant: graphite reinf
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Dan, Maybe it can help you a bit... I prefer not adding weight to the butt to obtain better balancing, to keep a rod as light as possible. So, I always am very careful on choosing rear grip length. And on my experince 7' rod requires around 8" rear grip to be well-balanced. It may vary a little depending on reel seat' size, blank taper and/or power, but, on the general, it works for any
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"..In this case, living in a small town has some disadvantages... I have to mail order all my supplies..." Keith, believe me: you have very small problems with ordering :) Everything is being learnt in comparision, though...
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Now I use Gudebrod Regular. Comparing to FC Lite I used before, it takes a little more time to set up but gives some more time to work as well
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Emory, Not Russian men, too :)
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I tried several kinds of wine corks for decorative inlay rings in the grips, and as endings on foregripless rods. In combination with 1/8" burl cork ring in the second case. IMHO, it works well
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Mikko, I guess it's the way some of ISPs fight against spam... Once (or twice, or 3 and more times, depends on) an email address from a certain domain (i.e. [email protected]) is recognized as a source of spam, they fordbid receiving emails from the whole domain. So, ANY message from [email protected] will be blocked :-( It's nothing to do with it... I also hate having many mail boxes, but I
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Mikko, I used to have the same problem (I live in Russia)... The solution: get a mail box at Hotmail.Com. It's free and any your message will reach recipients in the US
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SORRY By whatever reason my post was doubled :-(
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I don't know, Bill... Just checked a couple of Alconite tops I have at hands, bought a month ago from our local Fuji distributor, they have no any marks.
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Jerry, Usually 2 coats of FC Lite are quite enough on any rod, fly or spin/cast. As to quantity of finish, I think it's a matter of experience... If you are quite new to this, maybe it's good idea not to mix less than 2 cc of each component. Having already built 30+ rod by now, I sometimes mix 0,5+0,5 cc without having any problems with the result.
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Bill, The most likely, nowadays Fuji tops are not stamped. At least, Alconites definitely not. On the other hand, at the moment I have 7-8 years old Daiwa Silver Creek-X rod standing in the corner and waiting for some cosmetic repair... Its tip top (PST type) is stamped "FUJI"
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Jim, A couple of times I used Gudebrod #840 Rod Finish as CP... Works well, thread gets maybe only a very little bit darker than when using "normal" CP
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Tim, OD also gets larger
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Thanx Dave :) Will try to email Andy again now...
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Did anybody hear from Andy Dear within last several days? Tried to contact him thru email but failed :(
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Tom, If you are about no smaller spinners than #0, I think Shikari IS 601 (SH III series) will turn into a nice rod for that application, I think. If you prefer a softer rods, you can step down to SH II series blanks. Apart from being stiffer and lighter, SH III blanks are also more sensitive.
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Thank you, Spencer Angler's Workshop has this model on sale (as stated on their web page), but with the note that "some items are listed without stats, we are not able to find that information at this time"
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