My tip...don't buy a darn thing until you read one or two books. I read two before I ever ordered a single component. If you don't want to invest alot of reading time, then go with option #1 below. If you don't mind doing the research, read both #1 & #2. 1) Rod Building Guide by Tom Kirkman...Tom actually owns/runs this web site. This "book" is fairly condensed & will ge
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Of all the people that have said to scuff, I wonder if any of you have ever not scuffed & had a delam issue? I'm not against scuffing, but I'm not totally convinced it's necessary. Besides...the Flex Coat guy says clean & no need to scuff.
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Well done!
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Opinion #283... I would take that winding check off and try Roger's trick of pushing thread into the gap in an effort to force the grip over. If that didn't work, then I'd just remove it and install a new grip. You should not have to buy a new reel seat. Regardless the outcome with the grip...I would measure & buy me a winding check that fit. Don't put the one that's on there now bac
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That is an awesome offer from Batson. I have never used their blanks, but they are now on my radar.
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Robert Kelsey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- A number of posts have said > just contact the rod maker but I did that with > the rod that I broke and they there were none > available. Frankly I don't think the guy left his > desk to actually check to see if an extra tip was > available. Thank you sir What brand rod is it?
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Call the manufacturer. I know for a fact that at least some of them will sell any piece you need.
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For such a small gap, masking tape would be fine. Otherwise, foam arbors all the way. Combine them with the 1/4" guide bits & the job is very easy...and very secure.
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Michael, I believe the post about CP was in reference to easing the cleanup as the threads would have been sealed. It certainly would not have prevented the issue, and I don't think it was intended to come across that way.
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...and Spencer breaks out the notebook! LoL...that's awesome. I'm sure the OP is going to appreciate that.
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To hurry it up a bit so you can get on to your next coat you can up the heat a bit if you have a simple space/ceramic heater. Let the rod turn until it's cured enough to not sag. Then put the rod & heater in a small room (I have used a utility room or bathroom in the past). Turn the heater on and let the temp rise. It'll likely get over 100 degrees in there. That will get the cure going
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Why are you adding heat to the tip? I would recommend 5-minute epoxy or tip top heat melt glue.
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Moreso than anything else...use a blade with a single bevel.
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KB2...for the custom builder that produces 1-10 rods per year it could be viewed as extravagant. But many custom builders will produce 10 rods a month...or a week...or even more than that. For these guys it could be viewed as a way increase efficiency. And the price is simply a cost of doing business.
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Bill, stainless will indeed rust.
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I'd wait. Their web site says that once activated, the pot life is 48 hours @ 68 degrees. I'm not sure how far one can will go, but no need to break out the second can if you don't have to.
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Method #3629... Reel Seat Tip Top Tape on guides to rough position Wrap guides With rod upside down, sight down blank & align guides Epoxy With the rod upside down you are able to use the blank itself as your alignment tool. Just put the same amount of ring on each side of the blank.
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.
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I'd recommend you start calling blank/rod manufacturers, Phil. Best of luck to you, friend. Jay Harkers Island, NC
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Thanks Billy. Take care, man.
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Phil, I'm curious as to what this information will help you in doing. What would you like to achieve by knowing when a rod will break? Have you called a manufacturer and asked if they have those numbers, and if they'd be willing to share. If they aren't willing, what are their reasons? Another great point has been raised...the breaking point is very subjective to rod angle (and most likel
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CCS the blank?
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Great reads from BillyV & John Cates. Hey, Billy...do you mind explaining why you like mixing TM & PK (or AC)?
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Personally...I sort of trust the specs advertised by the manufacturer. If they say a blank is designed to work with 8-17# line...then I'm not sure how far over 17 I'd go. For me, that'd be a 10-12# rod. Similarly, my offshore rods may be rated for 30-60#...and I'd probably put 50# on them. I have never seen an instance where I'd put 80# on a 60# blank...or 25# on an inshore rod that spe
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Agreed, your only choice is the All American "N" eptune guides both Roger & Spencer suggested.
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I'm not sure I've ever thought of putting 10# of drag on 10# test line. Or 50# test drag on 50# test line. Heck, I dare you to tie into a rod pulling 50# of drag and try to hold on. Take for instance my 30# gear. The drags are set right around 10#. If I changed nothing, at half spool the drag would increase to 20# on it's own. That's still far from the 30# breaking strength of the line.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > One of the nice things about living in the South > is you can use your boat year round. > Norm And we do, but things are heating up fairly nice right now. We went a couple weeks ago and caught 64 bluefish in a couple of hours...3 of us with 18" fish. Last week the blow toads had moved in and p
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Bruno...for that leader connection I'd suggest you use a hollow core spectra and splice the 130# into it. The Chinese handcuff is commonly used...and you don't have to worry about a bulky knot. It's 100% strong as well.
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Capt. Rick, as you have found out...Permagloss is "hot" stuff. Ralph O'Quinn says a couple coats of Gudebrod 811 tends to work with limitations. All I can suggest is to test it out. Here is a quote from Ralph O'Quinn from another thread..."Apply one or two coats of Gudebrod 811, let it dry thoroughly and then apply your permagloss. The gudebrod is a urethane/acrylic and is par
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12s should be big enough for wind-ons unless they are huge. I would suggest you tie your largest connection and pass it through a 10 & 12...go with the smallest that will pass.
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