Y'all experience that much twisting force when working a topwater or jerk bait that you feel a spiral isn't as good as a GOT rod? I always thought the actual fighting of the fish was the main consideration. Maybe I just catch more fish than some of you? (bwahahahahaaaa)
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Just don't rush it. The warnings are sound. I have coated over Permagloss in the past with not so good results. It's been long enough ago that I don't remember how long I waited before epoxy application, but I do remember that it wasn't long enough. Micro-bubbles by the thousands formed as the epoxy cured...as a result of the Permagloss' continued off-gassing.
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The best warranty for custom fishing rod builders is detailed below: 30 seconds or 30 feet...whichever comes first.
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Your resin is most likely thickening faster than you expect because of the heat not because of the cold. Warming resin will thin it, but it also causes it to set faster. Just something to keep in mind.
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This is something I've never thought about. I don't think I've ever purchased Acetone in my life.
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As stated in a post above...pushing a bead of epoxy ahead of the actual brush (or whatever you use) will result in a straighter line than trying to "draw" or "paint" that line with said brush bristles.
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Yeah...I'll say pretty much what everyone else has...you busted it in the brush. I would recommend carrying butt first, and with a rod that long/light I would go ahead and break it down into it's pieces. You don't have to take the line out of the guides. Just slip out of the ferrule and fold it down against itself.
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10,000 ways to skin a cat yields 10,000 skinned cats.
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I think in your case you'll want to size the butt guide with enough height to keep the line off your grip. With the level wind you shouldn't have to worry too much about lateral line movement on the cast.
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I do love the board sponsors...but I'm sticking with Calstar or Seeker in this instance.
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If you are not using a level-wind reel, I would recommend you direct the spiral opposite the reel handle. This will make it easier for you to level the line onto the reel...you'll have more "push" & less "pull" with your thumb.
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A 20 butt guide is what I would typically use on heavy trolling rods. I'm not sure what size line/reel you're planning on, but a 20 seems large...maybe? But as stated...use the butt guide & then size directly down to your running guides...no need for various sizes. Simple spiral works great.
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Why would you ask why his customer wants a carbon fiber gaff? I would simply assume that he/she can afford it and it's what he/she wants. More power to them! Find the parts and get paid! That Mudhole link takes you to Calstart gaff blanks...I don't believe those are carbon fiber.
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I doubt that any manufacturer would ever list a number for catastrophic failure. First off...it's a fairly worthless number to most anyone that would be concerned. If a manufacturer says a blank is good for 50-80# line, then I'm going to stick within that range. That is where they want me to stay...so I oblige.
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For the Citristrip I would recommend testing a couple of inches of blank under the butt. You should find out quickly whether or not it is compatible with your blank.
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You're not planning on using an aluminum butt are you? If so, the rod will end up being around 9' long! LoL
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On fly I run enough line to round the reel and hook the fly on the second or third guide (usually wire). That gives you almost 15" of line without having to strip anything. Sometimes on our spanish/albacore fishing that's all you need when a pod suddenly pops up right at the boat. Unhook the fly, slap it in the water, strip it once, & fish on! But...on spin & conventional tackl
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Like Spencer says, read up on the simple spiral method. There are various ways to achieve the same end here, but the simple spiral is called simple for a reason. And spiraling toward the reel handle helps protect the guides sticking out the side of the blank.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Adding weight to a rod blank trades performance > for appearance. It's an offshore trolling rod...I doubt weight is of much concern. But very good thinking for other applications.
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Barry Thomas Sr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > JAY Those rods in my post are hanging in a > uninsulated metal garage, have not had any > problems with warp or bending. They are heavier > rods most rated over 6 OZ. Been hanging like that > for years Barry, I have confidence in horizontal storage as well. Common sense says to me that if
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I fully agree with Tom. I don't need to do anything with the epoxy except let it do what it wants to do. Be sure to use a light formula and let it do it's thing.
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Out of curiosity...have any of the "they're gonna warp" crowd ever stored a rod horizontally, like the OP suggests, and suffered a warp?
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Really can't imagine the 10s not being large enough, but I'd suggest taping on some 12s and giving it a few tosses. If that doesn't work I would look at either the reel (shouldn't be the issue with that Saltiga) or the technique. I use 12 rings when building heavy trolling rigs. Plenty of room for leaders much larger than you're using. I wouldn't think you'd want to go any larger.
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Drew. > > You could make a cardboard or paper pattern before > covering it up, This exactly. First, always keep a log book with all of your measurements. Once I have the numerical measurement for a guide written down I like to make a template right there in the log. Simple hash marks wh
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I do hope it was insured...for twice it's worth. Hopefully it's just the blank. You can rebuild it.
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Ordered 30 blanks from somewhere else. Thanks for your help. LoL
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I needed about 20 blanks...ill look elsewhere.
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Herb, Would you have a weight for an Elite MagSpin...7', 10-15#, 1 piece. Just doing some preliminary searching for sub-2oz popping style blanks for reds, trout, flounder. Trying to get as close to 1.5oz as I can with a 7` blank. Thanks.
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Id go the corrosionX rout. Use a toothbrush for stubborn spots. Replace the bushuings if the roller is frozen or difficult to remove.
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I have seen first rod builds where everything went absolutely perfect...but still...I would never recommend this project as a #1. Get one or two under your belt before moving to the CTS.
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