I hear you Spencer - it just gets harder to service them when they are further away, and would be nice to just not have to deal with it - both for builder and customer. As long as performance is still good of course.
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I have been using a lot of stainless guides on spinning rods - particularly the SSR from Mud Hole, and like them a lot. Just wondering - do you guys run the matching stainless tops usually or go with ceramics for the tip tops? Mostly light to medium spinning rods, and med-heavy casting. I have built a lot with Minima's over the years, but usually with a ceramic top. I know the tips can
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You are so right Norman! For a guy that's careful with his stuff, I don't think I have ever popped a tip ring out. But building rods for a lot of people, some are much better served and prefer the stainless top because it holds up to "stuff". It's possible on the spot failure due to popping out or chipping, vs. predictable eventual wear.
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I was just thinking about this! What I was wondering is if anyone runs matching stainless tops with these, and how well they hold up? I have used them with ceramic tips for years, and it's a good combo, but I still get a fair amount of guys who manage to pop the ceramic out of the tip top - thus considering trying the stainless tops. I ran them a little once, and it seemed they were a little
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Been using a lot of the LF guides and they are really nice. Mostly on lighter spinning stuff, running a 20-12-8-6's. My question is how heavy of a rod has anyone built using a size 20 butt guide? Really wondering how large of a reel or line anyone has run like this with good performance. The vast majority of what I do is Pfleuger size 25 reels (1000-1500 size equivalent), and mono no heavi
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Thanks guys! I like the SSR's so far, and I agree - running a ceramic tip probably takes care of 90% of the issues.
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I have used a lot of Minima guides over the years with good success. Recently started using the SSR guides and they actually seem to be made a little cleaner and pretty nice guide foot prep. I know the Minima's have a hard chrome plating, but not sure if the SSR guides do as they appear to be straight stainless. Does anyone know if there will be a difference in long term wear between the two
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My goodness - YES!!!! Sonnies right in Wilmot! We used to fish there in the spring with Grandpa. Sometimes not much for fish, but sometimes we get a bunch of crappies in the slower water, or hit the white bass or yellow bass. Wonderful great memories. Or early in the spring piles of carp or suckers on the edge of the fast water - it didn't matter, they were all fun.
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Special glimpses into the past. They are truly special - all I can say. I used to visit a small shop that was right on the banks of a small river and they owned the property right up to the dam. They had live bait, tackle, hand tied hair jigs that were so common before plastics, and they even sold some rod blanks! You could pay a small fee to fish off their property - it was just a beautifu
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That's what I was thinking Spencer - regular single foot wire, hard chrome fly guides may work just as well and be even lighter for running guides. I'd still run a ceramic tip.
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There are a few options in stainless insert ring guides for spinning rods out there. Does anyone know if they have much advantage over a wire style single foot, hard chrome fly guide for running guides?
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So I'm doing an 8 wt. for a friend for a bonefish trip. Thinking of using ceramic running guides - anyone build one like this? If so would you go with 6's or 7's for runners? I have both. Thanks!
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Batson has a nice 15" rear grip and full wells type fore grip, and I'd use either a size 17 or 18 trigger seat, depending on how big you have to go to accommodate the blank. Large hook keeper is nice, and I like Alps recessed ring guides. I usually run guide sizes 16 - 12 - 8's to the tip.
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I like non-recessed fly seats to match up with other grip styles like cigar or Fenwick type grips at times - but there are not as many of them to pick from as 20 years ago. Does anyone use size 16 graphite spinning seats in these applications? And any thoughts for an end cap if used up-locking?
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Thanks Roger. I do try to instruct people as best I can, but the number of "silly" things I have seen people do with rods has me looking to build a little insurance into them when possible. I seem to meet a lot of folks that want a rod to fish nice, but really need them to hold up to the occasional "oops" as good as possible. I know - it's a tough balance.
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With ultra-lite rods guys do a lot of fish swinging into the boat when fishing for panfish. I get a little uncomfortable with tip sizes less than 4.5 on these rods and try to look for 4.5 as much as possible. Does anyone built many panfish rods with 4.0 tops and do they hold up well? Thanks, Marc
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Has anyone used these blanks, and what are your thoughts? Are they soft enough to fish 4# mono on? They look a little larger on diameters than most of the light blanks I use. Also - I know they are not a high end blank, but how is sensitivity. Are they comparable to anything in particular? Thanks!
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Yes moving - talked to Karen recently. I think e-mail is the best contact right now.
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Thanks Roger. I do use a lot of hi-viz mono for line watching, so I hear you on the visual strike detection. I have noticed the same thing, when the tips get really soft feel does drop off. I may have to fish one to check them out more.
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Has anyone fished either or both of these blanks. They are pretty unique with soft tips and a lot of backbone. Main question is what did you use them for, and how did you find the sensitivity to be?
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Sounds nice Gregg! Did you run the SSR tip top on it as well? Thanks, Marc
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I recently purchased some SSR guides for a few spinning rods, but have yet to build and fish them. They look nicely made, and nice prep on the foot. I'm using the black frame, silver ring version, and would like to find a tip to run that has a smoother frame profile for less line tangle. Has anyone fished these much? Especially on spinning rods. And any thoughts appreciated.
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Considering adding some new multi rod dryers to the shop, and looking for any input. I currently use the Pac Bay 4 rod dryers mounted to the wall. Anyone have any experience with either the Flex Coat or CRB 4 rod dryers? I don't really have time to build a set up, so looking for something to purchase. What I have works OK, but at times the small rollers get stuck and don't turn, and the r
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Thanks Alex - they have some nice stuff! I think the box fan air cleaner may go a long way to get the loose dust I seem to miss.
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Thanks Roger. I have a separate room for cork reaming, so I guess more specifically I am looking for ideas on collecting the cork dust and keeping the air clear. Thanks, Marc
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So we are re-setting up the shop and looking at new ways to do things. What do you guys use for dust collection on reaming cork grips? Some of these are 15"-16" long musky grips. Am considering going to a pair of shop vacs properly set in place of the larger dust collector, as it's needing some money put into it, and it's so big and bulky. We build quite a few rods, so a nice set
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At times I do cut a fair amount of blanks, larger musky style blanks with heavier butts, so dust control is really nice. Thanks for the feedback so far. I'll keep researching. I wonder what the large companies use that cut a lot of blanks? Anyone ever seen one of their set ups?
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I have been using a wet tile saw for cutting rod blanks with a diamond blade and it works great! But I'm in the market for a new, smaller one that fits the shop better. I'm wondering if the type that just has a water tray below the blade that the blade runs through controls dust well enough, or if I need to stay with one with a flood water pump?
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Are you guys finding white rod blanks still popular? A few years ago they seemed pretty popular, but wondering if you still get interest on them? Thanks, Marc
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As common as size 16 standard spinning seats are, I am finding that the arbors for them generally have a really loose fit - more than I am comfortable with. When I go to size 17 seats the arbors are nice and snug. Working primarily with Fuji DPSM seats and Flex Coat or Batson arbors. Has anyone found arbors that have a nice snug fit with the Fuji DPSM size 16 seats? Thanks! Marc
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