Thanks!
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Thanks Spencer! So a size 16 M guide and 8# mono you wouldn't flinch at? What have you run for transition down to running guides? I won't go smaller than 6's for running guides. Thanks! Marc
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I did some comparing - and a size 16 M style, size 20Y style, and size 25 SV style guide are all really close in height. Anyone run size 16 M style for a stripper guide on ML and M power freshwater spinning set ups? 8# Mono would be the coarsest line used most of the time.
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That sounds like what I was thinking - thanks!
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Considering using an M style for the stripper guide on some bass-walleye spinning rods. What size stripper do you guys run for rods like this - it's been a while since I have used them.
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Wondering if anyone has used the Alps LF spinning guides on bass-walleye type spinning rods. If so - what size stripper guide did you use? Would like to run a size 20.
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I generally build to the straightest axis and forget about it on spinning rods. But I started using some blanks that generally have a very pronounced spine - they are smaller diameter slightly heavier wall, bass and walleye type spinning rods. With the really pronounced spine, and wanting to jump to a particular spot when checked, I'm having a hard time not building to the spine on them.
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I used to do it a lot and it can look nice. Coat of epoxy, decal, coat of epoxy - good to go!
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Anyone fished the SB780 in Rx6? Wondering how sensitivity is on this one? Thanks
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Running into an odd problem. In trying to finish some satin black finish blanks the Flex Coat is repelling from the blank on the ends of the finished section. Everything was cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to finishing. Using Flex Coat UV high build. These are import blanks and the satin black finish has this really slick feel to it. Any thoughts appreciated!
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One issue that can cause this is not mixing the epoxy totally. I did this just recently, after many years of building. Make sure it's mixed until all the "swirls" are gone. I use a timer for mixing, but have been reminded it's just a guide - it's not mixed until it's totally clear. You should not need to add more hardener - good luck!
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Me too - the RX6 are top of the heap for spinning rods from fly blanks - first for durability, second, the tips tend to not be over soft, but the over-all action is moderate. Thanks All!
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Any particular application you build or like fly blanks built as spinning rods, and what fly blank do you prefer for it?
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Does anyone still see much call for 2 pc. fly rods? How about on the shorter rods, say 8'0" and under?
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Has anyone fished both, and is there a large difference? I like the RX6 in the lighter weights, but have not fished one in a 6 or 8 wt. yet (building an 8 wt. currently).
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Thanks Guys!
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Do you guys still see a large demand that fly rod seats (6 wt. and lighter rods) still have a wood insert? I am really liking Batson's RA701 seats, as they are light and lock the reel really solid with ease, but there can be a difference between what I like and the customers.
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Working on some fly rods and assembling the top fixed hood to the wood body, and had one break loose (before putting on the rod). The top fixed hood does not have as much glue surface as the threaded barrel - any tips for gluing it more solid? Any glue type preference - paste or liquid?
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8's are usually the smallest I'll use, as the tip you'll need to fit is often an 8 ring to get a large enough tube size. To help avoid future repairs, pick something strong, and something that sits lower to the blank.
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Pac Bay Minima's are tough to beat for durability.
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Anyone else using the Makoi thread from Bingham? I keep trying others, but the Makoi finishes so nice, and has so few bubbles when used on the first coat - almost zero after just a little heat. Very few "fuzzies" too.
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I'd suggest a Batson RX6 or Pac Bay T2 - both would do nice, good price too.
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Wondering how the RX6 compares to the Revelation fly blanks, not just catalog specs. but actual casting. Is it noticeable or small difference?
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I use 99% Isopropyl for clean up of epoxy and it works well. But for cleaning a blank before finishing is one better than the other? I sometimes get the finish repelling on certain spots and have not pinned it down yet.
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Pac Bay Quickline is a great performance blank, and excellent value.
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Kind of what I am thinking. First - not a lot of 8'6" blanks around, a few in 6 wt., pretty rare in 7, 8, or 9 wt. Was also considering more power in the lower section would be interesting to cast. May be fun to try!
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Anyone tried these type blanks for fly rods? Thinking about some 8'6" rods for 6 to 10 wt. lines.
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Wondering how the stainless boat tops with chrome finish, like the Pac Bay XBT, will hold up to use with heavy braid - 65 and 80#. Looking at using them for musky rod tops possibly {lots of casting), and would probably use the grey finish version. Mostly concerned if grooving would be possible, and if so would you be looking at a couple seasons, or a really long time?
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Not remembering the Fenwicks that well - would this be pretty nice, or a little clunky?
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Anyone used the Lamiglass Fiberglass fly blanks, and how did you like them? How do they rate compared to other glass fly blanks in their range? Thanks!
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