My first attempt with Birch bark. As it was quite thin, it ended up darker than i like after using Tru-oil to finish
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North Fork has a couple of very nice moderate action blanks.
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Again, Roger's method, is the simplest of all those mentioned and will detect any defects that can cause rod failure when under fishing stress. You do not need, any devices or fitting anything onto the blank. I cannot see that any of the other mentioned methods accomplish more.
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I strongly second Roger's method! It is easily done(less than 5 min) and requires adding nothing to the blank out of the building sequence. I build only fly rods and test each blank I receive immediately upon opening the shipment. In all my years building, I have had only two fail the test.
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I am not joining the doom sayers! This country has been in worse conditions a number of times and we always come out of it better than before!
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There is no reason that the butt section needs to be the same length as the others. A removable fighting butt often makes it so all sections fit a tube. In 50 years, never lost one!
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Follow the link Aleks gave you.
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When using the Forhan wrap on a rod that may encounter heavy stress on a guide, simply increase the number of circling wraps.
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I have built a number of NFC Iconoglass rods and fish a 4wt myself. It is much faster than the older fiberglass, don't know if it is "the fastest." I like it very much.
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It would have helped if you had used the NFC name as well. As I only build fly rods, I am familiar with NFC Iconglass blanks and recommend them
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If spending $1050.00 makes a person happy and satisfies his/her objectives, it's a good transaction! To a conservative spender, it's not understood. Price point variations exist in most products. The entire cost of a product is not just the material used to make it.
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As mentioned above, "lessons" from a qualified instructor. I use the term qualified, as there are many ways we learn, some from observation, others the diagrams and many with in person instruction correcting ones faults. I teach fly casting, and a note to Ewaniki........double hauling is way down on the list of techniques I teach. Many fly fishermen never have a need for the techniqu
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CTS has them
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Just be really sure that the conk is epoxied to the reel seat hood for the entire circumference and it will be fine.
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I use a Forstner bit and Dremel tool with small sanding drum to touch up.
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Google NFL fingernail art, lots of choices
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Afterward for both wood and cork.
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Micheal, while I respect your opinions, buyers of custom fly rods do not expect the grip to feel "heavy"! When using exotic wood and heavier composite cork, without coring they are heavy. I have built a reputation of supplying "one-of-a-kind" grips that are as light as cork. I do not find it a "waste of time", when my customers come back for more!
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If you are dealing with too much weight, core the grip and insert foam arbors. They are structurally sound and greatly reduce weight! I use them on all composite cork for the very purpose.'''''''
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I am extremely anxious to find out more about the new development! Guess we all have to wait for ICAST release. Knowing Gary, it will be something special. Good luck on you new expansion!
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Mark, watch what you wish for! There are often surprises! really glad you did the Banksia pod. They are very unique, I know of nothing else like them. Wood turners do amazing things with them.
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Is a single haul only half as soulful!? Beside ambient temp. does humidity effect the soulfulness?
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Aleks, if you are referring to the color filled pockets, it is sealed with Truoil.
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Check out this site regarding Montague rods
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I have one but never use it for rod building. 300 degrees is a lot of heat!
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Great idea
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The other Phil has a fixation on "double hauling" like someone who just learned the technique! He inserts it in many of his responses, where it is absolutely irrelevant! Double hauling has it's place, when using it to increase the length of cast, not an everyday occurrence.
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If you would taper the butt toward the reel seat, it would look better.
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layout charts are a good starting point, especially for those without a lot experience. Then move on to the static test.
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Mark, I use Titebond lll on all my wood grips and have for many years. I have never had an issue with heat affecting joints, and I turn and sand quite fast, generating considerable heat. One factor with using Titebond is to be sure it has cured (dried) which can be a couple of days on large inside seams. I use a large number of exotic woods for custom grips, and have never needed to do anything w
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