Dennis, If you go to one of nearly any rod building shop, it is quite likely that you can either buy a nut that is an exact or near match to the missing part. You may have to buy the entire reel seat to get the nut but they are available. If you talk to nearly any of the sponsors on the left, they can likely help you. Take care Roger
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Use the product that works for your particular needs. Take care Roger
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Bob, If you have used the motor a lot, it is possible that the brushes in the motor have worn out. You can check fairly quickly be disconnecting the motor leads, taking the motor off the unit, and then removing the screws which hold the end of the motor in place. If you open the motor slightly, you can peer beneath the cover of the motor and check the status of the brushes. The brushes
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Scott, The bug man was likely having to guarentee his work. As a result, he was sure to spray everything. One never knows where the little creatures will be lurking. Obviously, if he was there - there were issues with the little critters. Be happy that the fellow was so complete to get everything done very well. Windex will take care of any over bug spray. Be happy that the bugs
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Buzz, If you have a dedicated bench and intend to keep it dedicated for rod building, you can always use the bench itself for a lathe bed. There are a couple of local builders in the area that have done exactly that. They have taken a common laminate top kitchen counter top. They have mounted a 1/2 hp motor on one end. In some cases, have mounted the motor on top of the bench with a di
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Ryan, The lightest rod with a particular blank will be the one with a tip only - no guides, and then the reel taped to the bare blank. If you can live with the peformance of the rod like that you won't get it any lighter. Take care Roger
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Buzz, Here is an example of a simple buffer motor with 1/2 inch threaded shafts, on which you can thread a 1/2 inch chuck. This is a very inexpensive source of lathe power. For a lathe bed, you can use a simple board, with a slot milled down the center, a piece of aluminum or steel channel with a slot milled down the center, or you can use any of many different aluminum extrusions.
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Buzz, The number of rod supports is not dependent on the rod length. Rather it is dependent on the flexibility of the rod. You mention - turning 8 foot musky rods. Musky rods use very stiff blanks. It is easy and actually the right number of supports to use 2 supports to turn an 8 foot musky blank. Just put the first one just past the handle to give maximum support for the turning on the h
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Jason, It is really quite simple. Just use one of the reverse boring bits to ream out the arbor and grip. Go to the local hardware store, purchase the blade bit that you need with a long handle on it. Take it to your grinder and sharpen the back side of the bit. Pull the handle through the grip, insert it into your drill and pull it back through your grip- drilling and reaming as you com
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Randy, I have seen this happen a couple of times, and in both cases, it was caused by my guide setup. I found that I had had these guides out of location. I had the thread very tight on the rod. I aligned the guides and finished the rod. A few days later, I checked the guide alignment and found that the two guides that had been out of location, were back in their original spot. My g
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Josh, Whether it is a rookie or a veteran, it is very much dependent on the complexity of the rod. If you have built rods before and if you have the appropriate set of tools you can build a simple rod in about two hours. If you are building a complex rod with complex weaves etc. you might end up working on the rod for a month. It is fairly typical for a good custom rod builder to bu
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Steve, If you use color preserver, you will end up with a finished look that is very much like you see with the unfinished thread. However, if you don't use color preserver, you will end up with a color shade that is illustrated by wetting the thread with alcohol. So, just give the thread a good wetting with alcohol and see if you like the look. If you don't like the look, use color prese
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Matthew, As with you, I do all of my grip work and drilling work in a different building than the wrapping and finishing work. Many years ago, I moved the grip and drilling work to the different building and have not looked back. Although you can use filters, cleaners etc. it is just so much simpler to avoid the dust problem by having the dust generating activities in a different building.
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Tom, That is a good idea. I have a table and a sliding miter on my other disk sander. However, this sliding miter works parallel to the disk. You are right, to get the effect that I need, I just need to make another miter that works perpendicular to the sander. However, as I think about it, you are now using only one portion of the sanding disk. With the cross vise, one can position
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Mike, You know I was just thinking about Micros a few days ago. If you think back about 15 years ago, we really had micros on spinning rods. However, at that time we called them match guides. These were essentially micros on very tall stands. The thinking at that time was to get excellent and correctly directed line flow, but be sure to have the guides high enough so that the line never - u
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Mitch, One easy and simple way to do it is to take a dozen or so micros and place them on the rod using elastic bands. Mount the reel of choice on the blank, run the line through the micros as well as the tip, and simply move and or rotate the guides until you get the line - line that you want. i.e. a nice smooth transition of the line from the reel to the tip. You want to check this line
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A short time ago, there was a post concerning the need to get a nice 90 degree sanding job on the end of the rod butt - prior to putting on a butt cap, or just for a final touch on the end of the rod. I was thinking about it and looked around my junk box. I found an unused motor on which I had a 1/2 inch chuck mounted that I had used in past times for makig butt caps. I know use my lathe fo
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I was prepping a new shipment of hook holders the other day. I was having a bit of a problem in holding the hook holders so that I could have a good grip to touch up the opposite end of the hook holder. I had used several diferent pliers and had also modified a plier to give me a better grip. But as I was going through the batch of hook holders, one would slip now and then. While thinking a
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Jim, I will be a bit of a devils advocate here. Over the years, I have seen quite a few comments about scuffing the surface of the blank before gluing up a reel seat. I always wipe the blank down with cleaner before doing anything with the blank to remove finger prints. However, unless I am doing a rebuild and refinishing the blank, I never scuff down the blank where the reel seat is ad
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Dan, Just as a double check, put a tip sizer on the tip of the rod. You have the specifications for the rod, so you should know what the tip is supposed to be. Most rods have a reasonably quick taper as it nears the tip of the rod. If 2 inches had been trimmed from the tip, the tip sizer will normally show this change quite quickly. Take care Roger
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Dan, Tom has it right. If it was the right blank, and if 2 inches happend to get trimmed off the butt - no big deal. You can always extend it if you want. However, if 2 inches were trimmed from the tip - and especially if the blank is supposed to have a fast or extra fast tip - the trimmed two inches would have ruined the blank. Check with the manufacturer and find out. Take care
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Josh, As part of your dryer - you received the 11 rpm dryer motor that comes with it - you don't need a separate package. Otherwise, just pick up the accessory 11 rpm motor that is part of this package and you will be set. Take care Roger
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Josh, I also picked up one of these Mini Chop Saws: I removed the "stuff" from the top of the work surface and simply screwed a 1/4X1/4 aluminum angle behind the cutting wheel to act as a work stop. I didn't want to make any angle cuts, so the straight aluminum angle worked very well. I then removed the 2 inch toothed blade and use a 3 inch abrasive cut off wheel to do the
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Richard, One of the things that is typical of most of the variable speed dc motors on the new lathes of today is that the minimum speed of many of these motors are in the range of 800 - 1000 rpm. i..e when you just turn on the knob of the controller, the motor starts turning at this speed, even with the speed control in the minimum setting. So, if you would want to use this motor for a wr
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Rich, I read and understand all of your comments. I personally dislike the use of a spring bobber and haven't used one for many years. Rather, I like to use a rod, that has a very light tip to be able to detect bites, but then loads quickly to be able to set the hook and reel in the fish. When pan fishing, I like to use only solid glass rods, because one can easily obtain a glass blank
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Phil, With a vertical jigging rod, you may find it to your advantage to go to smaller guides - pretty much all of the way through the rod. In particular, as the line wraps around the rod, it is generally to your advantage to have the "bumper guide sit quite close to the rod. Hence the use of the shorter height guide. Also, play with the rotation of the first guide. I have heard of
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Josh, Great idea. I highly recommend it, with the proviso that you remove the blade and replace it with an abrasive wheel. The abrasive wheel has no teeth on it and will not catch a blank and shatter it as a blade might. The abrasive wheels that I use are tool room - very thin - wheels that remove very little material from the item being cut, and it takes very little power to make the
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Brad, I use the following technique. I will mix up a batch of flex coat high build finish. I mix well for at least 120 seconds or two minutes. I use my power wrapper to apply finish. I can start, stop, rotate slow or fast at the touch of a pedal and it makes finish application so very easy and quick. I use a disposable brush for each finish batch that I mix up. I can finish several ro
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With some of the recent posts on replacement motors for wrappers and lathes, it gave me pause and I did a bit of reasearch. For several years, I have been using a DC motor with a variable speed control, as well as a DC motor with a variable speed control to run my various power wrappers. With the recent big surge in the sales of little electric scooters and electric bicycles, there is cur
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p.s. An example of a replacement variable speed DC motor is as follows: --- Note: To use this motor as a power wrapper to get 0 speed would require further modification. Take care Roger
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