Wow Rodger that sander looks like a good deal. Would be worth it even for the small amount of rods I build. Thanks Bill I am nowhere near doing that much grinding on my guides. Any tips on what to coat them with to keep rust away, mine are SS SIC's?
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I tried to post a picture but it did not work? I think I will just cut these two off and round off the guide edges. It seems that the finish does not want to cover a sharp edge as I had the same problem with a hook holder formed from a shaped wire about as thick as a paper clip. I conclude that the edge is the problem and more coats does not help as the finish just seems to flow off. Rodger I
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The problem was on top part of guide. The taper of the foot had no problems. I have never tapered the sides of the foot should I be doing so? I am not explaing this well enough but the stuff seem to pop through where the thread goes off the edge and multiple coats do not help. It seems like the finish will not stay on the "corner" or edge of the guide.
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I just finished a spinning rod build and had an issue with the finish on the bottom two guides. In fact I have had the same problem a couple of times before. Here are details, size A NCP thread, Threadmaster Lite finish. Right where the thread breaks over the edge of the guide (a size 25, and a 16) the finish has what looks like bumps or thread fuzzies in it. After 3 coats and sanding the ar
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Interesting post! I have used TN style split grips mostly but lately built using the DNPSM but did not like the weight. Have to try some of the mods mentioned here. My latest spin rods will use the VSS seats with the foregrip turned toward the butt. This makes a down lock grip with no foregrip and in limited use seems to be very nice! It is also easy to put together. Here in Tennessee we us
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What is the saying - if it looks right...? I agree that is not allways the case and that is why I tape them on and adjust spacing based on stress tasting. I know most blanks will flatten out at the tip when stressed making guides at the tip much less important. The extra fast tip may change that but I will wait and see how it reacts to loads. Maybe some have already done testing and know, wil
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Thanks guys I will set it up as suggested! Yes it will have a "2500" sized reel, Shamino to start so I plan to set it with an intersect somewhere between a Daiwa and Shimano 2500 spool diameter. I used that setup on a 7' ML Croix and it is the best casting spinning rod I have! I have mini guides on it too and it appears to me the combo of the guides and spacing is just "right on
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I am working on a new project with a Croix LES63MXF blank. This is my first extra fast action blank and I am wondering if there are any guide spacing tips anyone has with this type action? It seems to me the first couple of guides would need to be a little closer together since there is a lot of bend in the first 8-10 inches. I plan to use micros for the top running guides and using the X stan
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Down locking with trimmed threads my preference also. I still have plenty of room for two fingers in front of the reel foot and no foregrip. You can wrap a little tape over the area to keep the reel tight. I think if you check the threads tighten clockwise (from front) so a rod/reel held in the right hand tends to unscrew the sleeve. An uplock would tend to tighten the sleeve in use would it
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OK my fighting butt does have a three piece trim ring so I assume I should ream it out a bit? Will a standard small diameter reamer do the job turned by my drill? The grip is one piece so no problem there. Emory how would you slide the EVA down the tape? Apply lighter fluid or something similiar to soften the adhesive?
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I did not remember anything on EVA but I was not doing any! I think it sounds almost too easy!
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Going to try a couple of EVA grip rods and have no experience with this material. Here are my questions. I know that a tight fit is desired but not sure how "tight" that needs to be. How far should I slide the EVA down the blank? What I have now is well over a foot to go and that seems too much? Best way to ream if needed? I watched Billy V. shape EVA in NC and have no probl
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Lots of rain and some storms in TN and KY and it is headed east!
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Excellent thanks guys. We will be riding the storm east tomorrow morning! After taking most of last year off from building I have "projects" running through my head for the rest of 2011!
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Ready to head east now! Already checked out space in truck for blanks that need to ride back with us! I see the new water based finish stuff and for sure want to check that out. Will that be on sale? Any other things that are must see (get) for us bass guys? Any vendor have some "hard" EVA I would like to check that out also alternate grip for a TN handle spin rod? Due to w
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I have some 1980's All Star rods (that used Flex Coat I think) that turn white every time they get wet. One thing you can tell him is that it does not seem to hurt the wraps since they are still going strong and I have never had one come off. I will say I thought it was the coating itself absorbing water and not under the wraps because all the wraps turned white on three different rods but I ne
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Have used the filament tape for several years and have not had one reel move at all. You could use shrink wrap over it but too much heat might cause the adhesive to break down. I usually use only enough to get a good stick, maybe one and a half time around the grip then cover with a good black tape, usually 3-M. I think the shrink wrap alone will allow the reel to move within a short time.
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Building my own as Tom said was because I was not able to find what I wanted in an off the shelf rod. It is actually easier for me to find the "right" blank then build to my specs that try and search through 100's of rods at the local BPS. Last trip we took to the rod show I think I spent over $600 on blanks alone, but I had projects for most of the rest of the year and 6 really nice
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I have not seen much on these lately? 1. Are these in full production in all SCV models (well spin and cast is my interest)? 2. Anyone built and used one enough to commen? 3. Will there be any at the show? Bob M? Making my list and checking it twice!!
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Denatured will damage St Croix too! Best to allways try it somewhere that will be covered. I only use regular rubbing alcohol on St Croix and it seems to work OK for cleaning epoxy overuns and such. And even rubbing alcohol will distroy water slide decals. Found out all the the hard way of course!
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Here are some other options. Gary Klein has a full length foregrip on his flipping rod and grips the rod in front of the reel while working his bait and retrieving. This would give the rod better balance and make the rear grip length less important. My personal preference is to have the rear grip (I use split grips) hit the "fat" part of my forearm when palming the reel. With the ro
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I have used the 91% for clean up but I could not tell much difference compared to regular alcohol. It works fine to clean up epoxy and Rod Bond. I use heavy duty paper towels (the blue ones that come in a box) and wet them down. Also use to do final clean up on finish brushes. Do use care as it will burn and does so with little flame.
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No reason not to add that I know of. I have added it to all my guide wraps for years (over 10) even mini guides. I do have to watch the finish on the mini guides because it can cover part of the ring. I have not had a guide pull out since I started using the Forhan wrap and ALL my rods go in and out of the rod boxes. And yes I have bent a giude hanging up on the tubes several times.
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Jay, These baits come in a wide assortment of sizes so keep that in mind. Which weight you want to toss will tell you what power you will need. I use a spinning rod for the Pointer 78's and a MH power baitcaster for the 100 and 128 sized (over an ounce) baits. It is a St. Croix blank so it runs a bit higher in power than some blanks. I also have moved to a 7' rod and it will work fine if
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I have been doing spiral guides since 1998 or 1999 (CRS!). After using all three main methods I prefer the "bumper" or simple by far. They all work but the bumper is a lot easier for me to setup. It is working fine with micro guides too (well down to 3.5 size Fuji's) The material from Rod Maker is excellent at explaining each method so you can read up on all of them. By the way th
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I suggest you call them and speak with Bob. He is from TN and we do a lot of that type fishing around here. In fact when I built my Shakey Head rod he suggested the Loomis SB -6'9" blank (which is a "spinnerbait" rod). I used that blank and it made a great rod! I use mostly 8 pound line and the rods works well. I would rate it between a "2" and a "3" in pow
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To me picking a jerk bait blank is one of the more difficult ones to chooze! Some folks want a stiff blank so the slightest tug will pop the bait and a hard jerk will really make it jump. Others want the rod to give when jerked to prevent overworking. Based on your previous rod looks like you prefer the moderate action so you might want to look at the Croix 3C66 or 70MM or the 4C66 or 70 MF.
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Have to disagree here! I am old enough to remember the first time I used an All Star graphite rod rather than my trusty Lami glass rod. The difference was very prounced and on the first cast it was "wow". I used both for Slider fishing and do still consider myself a line watcher. I did not have to learn anything to tell the improvement because I could feel stuff much better than wit
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It was noted in the test that the coating process has been changed to include several coats. But wearing the coating off (they included a picture of what looked like a bare tip top) in a few days indicates to me that the coating performs little if any function in this case. I will stick with ceramic guides!
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Thanks Tom. A printout will let me have in one handy notebook the same as I used to do with the individual issues! Much easier to keep up with. And the CD is easy to keep up with for when I spill something on my paper copies! Actually I have though that a DVD of some of the show seminars would be great but I understand the problems of producing something like this as does anyone that ever doe
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