While working on a new rod I elected to move a couple of guides that I had finished with Thread Master lite. Cut epoxy off top of guide and was able to peel if off as per usual. However in this case there is a layer of finish that was under the thread that does not want to come off. This is a St Croix SCV so I do not want to use any harsh solvent that would also take the finish off. This is
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Been using spiral wrap since 1998 and have no issues with it using any technique. I do have an occasional issue with a "professional over run" but that has nothing to do with the rod!
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One thing I do that works is wrap Scotch Tape where I want the edge. Just make sure the tape is pressed on the blank with no bubbles especially where the tape overlaps. I let it turn and dry fo about an hour then slowly pull the tape off. Most of the time I Just eyeball it but if I want a spot on edge tape helps.
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OK I thought that might be the case. Thanks Tom.
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I see St Croix advertising a new FRS graphite for 2013. Last year they were building with a 3-M graphite which was supposed to have nano reinforcement. Dos any one know what the difference is? Same stuff different supplier or something completely new.
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Thanks Jim. I will use the KSKSS for this build which I have tried on the blank. It is fine for size in this case as I am doing it in the Aaron Marten's style using a light three finger grip with my index finger on top of the blank all in front of the reel stem. And I can still use it in a 2 + 2 grip which is my usual build. Of course I will use the new KR concept and guides as well!
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I am mounting a KSKSS17 on a new spinning rod project. I am using this model to have a foregrip for drop shot fishing so I can grip the rod completely in front of the reel. My question is what would be the suggested length for the threaded barrel, full length or trimmed? Also the arbor only fills part of the barrel should I use two arbors? This is my first use of the SK2 and I have seen litt
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Roger thanks. I think I am feeling the need for some new tools! I do have a chop saw but I will need a new blade to cut the files. From working with a couple I do not think the bottom of the files are hardened so cutting them should be easy. I do not have a lathe but the drill is 1/2 inch chuck so I would not need to remove a lot of metal. I will adopt your method of reaming as I prefer the
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Without looking it may be a 16? I will check tomorrow night as I am buttoned up for tonight. All I have done is cut the diameter of the insert down a little and ream the grip. I do agree with others that a larger diameter grip would be nice, Maybe even a 20-25 mm. I have fitted the arbors to allow the grip and winding to fit without any force. This will mainly be gripped in front of the ree
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Went back to my rat tail files and after beating the bottom of the file back to a somewhat straight piece chucked it up and went at it. Does work better but still hard to hold the grip while reaming. Running backwards the file got hot enough that I would not want to hold it in my hand. Actually I may have worn files since I have used these for several years on cork and EVA. Speed is the key I
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Working on a spinning rod project using Fuji SK2 grips with EVA foregrip and handle. My usual reaming on cork starts with a rat tail file then works up to reamers but the EVA is hard and I made little progress in 20-30 minutes. Is there an easier way? The file and reamer seem to be very slow at removing material?
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Jim, I am building a Drop Shot rod with the KSKSS17 seat. It will have a BGKS17E front grip and BGSKT17 rear grip. Going away from the no fore grip on this to build an "Aaron Martens" style front grip that I can hold with all fingers in front of the reel seat (three fingers on grip fore finger on blank) and still have the rear grip as an option and for casting. This will be a bit of
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This is a short one piece butt grip that will need to be reamed to go over the end of my project to about .40 to .45. I was thinking of using a Dremel with a small sanding drum or other attachment but I am worried about keeping the hole centered. Any advice?
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I read where Fuji recommends not using magic marker pens to color the guide foot after prep. Naturally I cannot find the piece but did not recognize the product and do not know where to find it. Any suggestions?
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I also use a strip of reinforced packing tape (it has fibers running through itr) on each foot then top it with black tape. This will prevent it from moving. I also flatten the cork where the foot will sit so it almost melts into the grip. The other suggestions will work well also and your reel will not move until you cut it off.
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Thanks guys. I saw the rods you had at the NC show but was focased on the reduction guides. I have about figured out how to do the KR Concept and want to give it a try. I have been unable to find the KB SIC Gunsmoke guides and the KL's are backordered as are the new LG tips! MudHole is selling these as fast as they get them! Jim I think for these ML powered rods one KB will do fine then KT's
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Itching to try these out on my in progress spinning blanks. Question is both of these have 4.0 tips so the tip section is pretty small diameter (they are ML power). Are these guides too wide to fit in the small tip section? I saw them at the show but did not get that close a look. I guess I can grind them down if necessary?
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Thanks Jim! I have been waiting to order these since the show and have two blanks ready to go (well almost the grips are backordered). Both are St. Croix ML bass blanks and I am assuming a 20, 12, 5 progression would be a good start but I will drop the measuremants in GPS and see One question, if I am not sure which reel will be used would you measure both and take the average (it will be a Da
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Thanks Lou. Do you dip straight from the bottle or put some on something? It looks like straight out of the bottle would be best for no bubbles?
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Ok, I did not read the bottle correctly, sorry about that. But the point still stands a one part, water based finish has great potential. I will report back in a couple of days on how it works for me.
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I just put the first coat of the new Threadmaster water based epoxy on a project. As instructed I put a light, "wet the thread" coat on. So far so good. Anyone used this that have any tips or anything to watch out for? The only negative I see is if poured on a surface for use, if you get a bubble it stays! Excellent idea, easy to apply, no mess and easy to clean up. From what I co
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Recently heard an Elite level pro say that rods over 7 feet were not as sensitive. I know there are many variables but I do not think there is a magic length beyond which rods lose sensitivity. Any truth in this?
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Just wanted to add my thanks for the show. We stayed across the street and went back and forth several times a day. Seems I carried back a sack full of stuff every time! This was a little different show for me as I saw and lot of new stuff and ideas that were not blanks! And the talent at building new and truly works of art stuff is amazing! Some stuff I would like to see more on is: 1. Th
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Does anyone know if Winn Inc. has released their V17 Pro Tour Grips to builders? They had these at the show in February and said they were planning to introduce them this summer. I believe these are used by at least one rod company. They look like an excellent way to replace the butt grips on some of my older rods.
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Does anyone know if Winn Inc. has released their V17 Pro Tour Grips to builders? They had these at the show in February and said they were planning to introduce them this summer. I believe these are used by at least one rod company. They look like an excellent way to replace the butt grips on some of my older rods.
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Bert I spent years looking for a casting setup that would cast the SR-5's. The best combo I tried was a GLASS rod build on a now discontinued StCriox ML or L blank (I forget which). Croix still has several S glass blanks as do others. Still have it and use it a lot. The soft glass protects those small hooks well. And just as important the reel needs to be able to cast light baits. I use a S
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Regular and denatured work fine for me. Most of the clean up is just using paper towels to get the bulk off then cleaning with a wet (alcohol) soaked paper towel. And yes do test the blank finish because some will be removed by denatured and even regular rubbing alcohol can remove some of the finish. Epoxy can damage your skin so always a little caution with it!
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I have built several bass specific micro spirals including a swim bait rod and flipping stick. I find no issues using this setup (simple/bumper) and pick the first three guides just tall enough to prevent the line from dragging on the blank. It does not take a very big guide to work and work well. If you have not read Rich Forehan's last article in RM you need to. Some of the stuff I see on m
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I think I may have every issue published! More than once I have had one opened on the rod bench for reference. I agree anyone that finds this site a good source would get more from the magazine. My only problem with it is that I usually have read every article in two days!
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Mixed a test batch of finish and applied it to some dummy wraps. It seems to be fine now with no extra lumps!
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