I believe I got one of the last copies. It is a compliation of the articles from Rodmaker and is an excellent source all on one CD. Even has some old hard to find charts and such. My only wish is that I could print this out and keep in my non-computer equiped rod room for a quick reference!
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Order sent.
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Sorry to come to the party late but this is something I have been playing with for about 2 years! I use mainly the Jackall Flick Shake heads and worms. Among the different brands there are 1/16 to 1/4 ounce and probably heavier heads and plastic baits from 4" worms to 7" Senkos and even larger so it will take more than one rod to properly cover the range of stuff. I have an old P700
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Wow! Good luck down there in yankee land Bob. You guys at Mudhole are building a rod "empire"! Keep up the good work because I think we are in for some changes in the rodbuild world and it looks like things are only getting better, a lot better! Don't forget us back in the hill country.
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I like to set up for long casts that way shorter casts take less effort. I find as I become more "experienced" less effort is better!
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I figured there were enough of us senior builders that could give me some suggestions! Letting them "help" will be good as well as they really like to be involved. Thanks for great ideas!
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My two oldest grand kids want to go fishing with me again this summer. They have outgrown the little kid rods and I would like to purchse them something they could use for a few years. They will be 9 and 11 this year and both can use a spinning rod fairly well. We will fish for panfish and whatever is biting so mostly bait or power bait. I tried an Ugly Stick Light at BPS and thought it was t
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I have noticed recently on several BASS and FLW shows that the "pros" break plenty of rods! Of course if they are provided for you... I have found over the years that I prefer faster actions on lighter powered blanks (for bass fishing) and more moderate actions for "MH" power and up. I do not consider breakage at all when selecting and building but prefer the slower actions
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Interesting discussion! I bass fish with both casting and spinning tackle with line from 6 to 25 pound test. My answer is that it depends! I have tested a spinning outfit in my yard and with 8 pound line and a heavy weight (around 5/8 to 3/4 ounce) I could throw over 80 yards (yes I measured it) this was with a fiberglass 6' rod. Could I have set the hook at that distance, well no of course.
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We need more information! I fish worms from 4" to 10-1/2" and 6 pound to 25 spinning to Flip sticks. Where are you fishing, heavy cover or clear bottoms and what pound line do you wish to use? A good all around rod would be a medium-heavy power, 1/4 to 3/4 ounce baits and 10-25 pound line. You can find one of those in every blank makers catalog. My suggestion would be to call Bob a
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I assume they may be speaking of a "hinged" blank effect such as found on blanks used for light drop shot rods. I have an old Shikari P7000 (I think that is the blank) that does have a very light tip section but has a moderate curve when fighting even a small bass. My assumption is that Fenwick added a light tip section to a normal power flipping blank. While this does create a fast/
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Interesting not sure what the actual taper is. By the way the rod mentioned is a Fenwick Elite Tech 7'11" flipper. I have had problems dumping fish with fast action rods and jigs but I have lost a few on the moderate action even after bowing the rod into a good bend and have them just come off. Probably never got the hook set and the fish just had the jig clamped in her mouth! I think in
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Recently saw where one of the big rod companies has a new flipping rod out. They tout the rod as haveing an extra fast action which allows it to be more than just a flipper and even indicate it would be good for big cranks! I allways preferred a moderate action for these rods and no more than a moderate/fast. Is this new taper going to be the "deal"? I do see a move to very fast act
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Try regular "Scotch" tape. Seals very well in fact you can see the seal through the tape and only needs a little pressure. I have used this a lot to get a straight edge. Only thing you need to do is not try and overlap it much as the finish will run under the overlap. I remove mine after the finish starts to set a little, maybe 1-2 hours that way the finish is not set and will form
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Lance this and many other questions should be discussed with a GOOD tax advisor. It would be well worth your time to retain a good CPA to do your tax return at least the first year. There are many issues that may need to be resolved to properly file. You can find a list of these in your local yellow pages and be sur to ask them if they do returns for this type of business. As a CPA and former
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Agree with those that say deciding on a crank rod is dependant on the individual. Both as to skill, experience and also to personal preference. But I do think there are things we can assume will apply for most. A longer rod will usually cast farther which for the big deep divers could be a key. This is where the move to 8' rods comes from. After that you need to decide your priorties and wh
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Interesting read but you guys are just a little behind on the new reels! They are here, now and some are even pretty good deals. For example I have a new Daiwa Fuego spinning reel in transit the 2500 size - weight is 7.8 ounces. That is about 2 ounces lighter than an aluminum model and has a composit body and rotor. Not cheap I admit but not Steeze price either! The Shamino CH 50/51 is aroun
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Here are a couple of things that will help. Like others said "aim" at the tree tops or other high target. And I suggest using a heavy weight of at least 1/2 ounce or a bit more. MUCH easier to cast the heavy weight! And start with the rod position on your shoulder at 9:00 on the clock BEHIND you then sweep the rod up and release around 12. I think in 20 minutes you will be casting
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Thanks Jim I will get some and give it a try!
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I have two small holes in the finish where I covered the stick on decal (actually on the back side) of the split grip area. These are small maybe size of a BB but go all the way to the blank. Can these be "patched" or do I need to feather them with some fine paper and recoat the whole area? Nobody else would probably even notice but you know how that is!!
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St Croix SCIII. It was something that got on the rod that is strong enough to dissolve the finish! I had placed the decal on the opposite side and coated with Threadmaster which came out fine. The only thing I use is some fish formula which is applied to the bait and not close to the handle and a spray of KVD line conditioner to the reel (off the rod) but it should have been long gone since I
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I finished a new rod about three weeks ago and yesterday when I took it out of my closed boat rod locker I noticed I had two small white spots on the rear grip area (split grip flipping rod). I could not wipe them off and they seemed to be in the finish. When I wiped them off with a little denatured the spots came off and so did the finish right down to the bare graphite! Any idea what would d
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Much more to it than just casting. What fish are you going to use the rod on? What size line? And are you trying for maximun distance (I assume not with a 3/8 ounce weight). If you are fishing for bass for example then most bait casters will allow you to cast far enough to catch fish with either end of the weight rating but depending on where and how you are fishing the rod requiremants could
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So long as the bottom edge is protected from damage I think there would be little harm in leaving it open. Unless it stays outdoors and a wasp decides to build a nest!!
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Sadly I still see "medium action rod" meaning meduim power in major publications which irritates me. Most of the blank makers I currently use use action to indicate the bend point. But testing indicates that many of the blanks do not conform with their own ratings with many faster or slower that indivcated. Until there is a move to the common sense rating system you are just on your
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Steve you convinced me! I will go back to the size 4's (smallest in the Alconite). This is a swimbait rod and chunking 4 ounce baits will be the limit. I have seen a test with a 50 pound class boat rod where we hung a 10 pound weight on it and measured the force at the guides. As I recall most were 1 pound or less. Still need to figure out the combination for the bumper but I think I will j
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Steve I do the same. Just a few quick strokes with the file and they are ready. I usually hit the sides at an angle and across the tip. Only takes a few strokes on each side then black with a Sharpie. I am currently working on a St Croix 4C79HF which is a beefy blank. I have tried the Alconite BLAG 4's but went up to 5's to get a longer foot for some more wrap length on the heavy power rod.
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Seems now the term is used for almost any jig/worm combination. And I find that most of the time very little or no shaking is required. It is almost impossible to keep a worm from moving some unless you give it total slack line so I seldom need to shake! I catch most of my shaky fish on the initial drop. The method has expanded to include leadheads from 1/16 to over 1/2 ounce and worms up to
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I am sure I did not do something correctly, but whatever it was the trim I did do with NCP turned out perfect so that is my solution. Not "blaming" anything here but me. That is why I avoided light thread (yes it is a dark grey/black SCIII blank) for years. Use any color as long as it was black! I did have a new thread tension device that may have contributed but for me I had rather
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I completed my wife's spinning rod and should have known better! After not using color preserver for years I decided I would give it another try (most all my recent rods use either NCP or finish straight over dark threads). I wrapped it with orange with a bit of white trim all regular thread. Well C.P. has not changed and when I put it on I got what made me stop using it years ago, dark splotc
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