I'm with Mike on this one. The system works!!!!
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No need to scuff as long as you apply the second coat within 48 hours. If you wait longer than 48 hours you should scuff with grey scotcbrite.
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I have never had a tip guide tied this way come loose. I have broken the legs on a couple though. I also have not used a forhan wrap on the tip guides.
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Just like Mike says, let the finish settle to the bottom (you will see the excess) and draw it off with a spatula or cut up credit card. Next turn 180 degrees & let sit for several minutes and repeat. I do this until I get no more sag then I put it in the dryer.
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Yes you can use single foot guides. I think they look a lot nicer than the tube over tip tops. I'm with Paul in that most a lot of the time the heights don't match up & a sigle foot looks much nicer. The only con is replacement is more difficult due to it being tied on. On my last trip to Alaska I broke a tip guide on my float rod and had to do streamside repairs. I stripped the guide off in
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It could be moisture also. Is it possible that either part was contaminated with moisture or high humidity?
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Thanks for all the info guys. It's not going to be an easy task for sure, but I have some good ideas I'm working on.
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The image I will be using is a sunset picture I took on the Anchor Rivier in Alaska 3 years ago. The size of the weave (image size) wiil be 334 thread (size A) by 345 thread (size B) this will create a design that is 2.75" long by 2" wide. This will wrap just under 2/3's of the way around the foregrip. I have posted a picture of the mocked up image. I did have the thought that I
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Ellis Mendiola Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You must be addressing this question to me (l0l). > A few weeks ago while attempting a complicated > weave, one that I have not finished, I had to stop > because I kept getting confused. Confused in > picking the right thread out ot the Wonder Weaver > slots. Some of the threads were too cl
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I am in the process of learning to weave and have a more advanced question. In the future I am planning a weave on the foregrip of a 15 foot float rod. This weave will be very complicated and probably take me well over 100 hours to complete. Now my question is this, I am going to be wrapping it on the foregrip because it is a rather large pattern & it will be several hundred threads & so
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You think that's bad. I'm waiting on an order from Texas........... 46 Miles of thread!!!!!! That's right 46 Miles, I purchased 80, 1000 yard mini cones in 80 different colours!!! Could you please also incorporate a TA Chapter (Threadaholic) with your RA Chapter??
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marc morrone Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Where did you buy Putter's DVD on waterslides? > I'd like to order a copy. > > Thanks, > Marc []
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William Bartlett Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I posted this question under the pic, but just in > case the right eye's don't see it: Is there > anyplace to purchase pre-tanned skins or > reproductions? > > Bill in WV Bill Here's the info you need
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To the nearest TA (Threadaholics Anonymous) chapter. I can't stop......over the last couple of months this has become an expensive addiction. A VHS Tape here, DVD there an 80 thread weaving loom etc. Monday it was Billy's book.........It's been two days ago & it;s still not here!!!!!!! I find myself searching sewing web sites........WHAT'S NEXT!!!!!! Please,please,please help me, last night
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Mike I just tried to purchase Billy's book but get an error when adding it to my shopping cart. Please Advise.
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Jerry Post a pic of it when you get the chance, It sounds sweet. And yes it sounds like you have way too much time on your hands. LOL
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The best thing to do with the peel & stick labels is just to add a coat of CP before you apply the finish. It seals the edges so they wont lift & also seals the face of the label enabling the finish to adhere to it. Others will chime in I'm sure.
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Ralph O'Quinn is probably the best source for info on this topic, send him an email.
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Jared Try sending Sanford Hochman an email as he has done alot with Abalone. Check out his gallery also.
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All right there has been alot of talk about the Venue, Seminars & Vendors, but what I Really want to know is Who Won The Name Tag Contest :-) Oh yeah lets see some PICs.
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I use mostly Sable brushes & clean them in U40 Brush cleaner & thoroughly dry them with a paper towel. I haven't found the need to use anything else. As long as they are properly cleaned they remain soft & supple. However I did purchase some of the 1/8" & 1/4" brushes from @#$%& but have not tried them yet.
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Mark @ Acid Rod has Maderia []
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Mark Griffin Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Okay, I just got here from 75 degree So. Cal and > i'm NOT thinking about shorts right now! lol > > Mark Griffin > @#$%& / C&M Custom Tackle > San Dimas, California Mark It was -33 C here this morning, QUIT WHINING :-) I can hardly wait until the temps are above freezing again (only
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You tend to get a better more level finish when turning by hand. I hand turn for the first hour & then put it in my 5 rpm dryer. This gives the finish time to level properly & allows you to use the sag and wick method to get any excess finish off your wraps.
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I like the straw trick. I just blow lightly on each wrap to break any bubbles that don't break by themselves. I also do this with the epoxy when I pour it out onto the tin foil, I almost completely removes all bubbles in only a few seconds. Just my .02
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I cover all my rods with Minnow Scales & ROE Goo works great :-) Seriously I use auto wax twice a year helps in the removal of above Scales & Goo.
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Oily woods such as Cocobolo are a bit of a pain (meaning: Total Pain) in the finishing department., I usually wipe down several times with Acetone (well ventilated area) and then coat with Tru Oil. I have been thinking of trying rod finish as well but have yet to do so. Even using the Tru Oil method it can some times take an extended period of time for the finish to cure. I once made a couple of
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MaryLou VandeRiet Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Gentlemen.... > I have just checked out > the ggharris website and still not finding what I > want....I am looking for the " Bad To The Bone" > pin..... > Any suggestions where I > might find it ??? >
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Brian Folz Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the info Paul. A question I have is, > since the tip top freezes first and worst when > fishing in the cold (and you're running SIC's as > tip top regardless) what's the difference in a day > on the water? I don't know what the answer is, > but I'm building a noodle of a float rod wit
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