Scott Parsons Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Get Billys book it will answer all your questions > and then some. It is available from some sponsors > on the left. I agree 100 percent!!!
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Make sure you get Billy Vivonas' book on cross wraps. Lots of great info on layout as well as patterns and spacing charts. There is also a section on using Visual Wrap.
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Wayne If you're any where near LeBarons' (Ottawa, Toronto, Mississauga) they have stock finish in the gun shop. I'm not sure of the brand but it works fine.
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Being a newbie this is easy!! So far I've built one rod & fixed one, both with pre formed grips. I'm currently working on rod build #2 and this time I made my own grip & seat. Does it count if I started early? LOL Count me in Billy!
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Thanks for the input guys. I was going off one of my sage rods for the amount (a 5100 RPL) for the number of guides and adding a couple in the order just in case, and for the stripper size I was going off my RPLXI 790-3.
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I'm going to be building up a Rainshadow 10 1/2' 7wt Rx7 fly blank that I've had waiting to be built. This is going to be my 3rd build & my first fly rod build.I am planning on using AmTak single foot ceramics in size 7 with size 16 and 12 strippers. I'm thinking that I will need 11 or 12 size 7's including the tip plus the 2 strippers. Does this sound right? Also should I use the 7's or dro
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Paul Fishsticks4U have both. You need to pick the size you want. I just use the 1/4" because the cork I buy has 1/4" holes & I dont feel like drilling or reaming to fit on the mandrel.
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You will need a Jacobs chuck for the head stock end of the lathe and a live center for the tail stock end.. As Mike says use one of andy's mandrels, I glue up my handles on a threaded rod covered with wax and clamp with nuts & washers. When dry I transfer it to one of Andy's cork turning mandrels, the glue that seeps into the center locks the handle to the mandrel for turning. I chuck the m
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If you regularly use 8# tippet I would say yes you are using more rod than you need. I would go with spinning rods rated 6-10#. Using 8# on the 8-17# rods is not able to get full use out of the higher line rate that these rods are rated for. It's sort of like using regular instead of premium in a porsche. I hope I have managed to explain myself. Most of my steelhead rods are rated 4-8# and I re
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You maybe right I'm not totally up to speed on the system yet.
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Marty The rating is how many pounds it will take to deflect the blank 90 degrees. Similar to the AA in the Common Cents System. Therefore a 2 1/2 pound test curve rod takes 2 1/2 pounds ow weight to bend it 90 degrees. I hope this makes sense to you.
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Rodger Mike is refering to the CD album he put together from his pictures and submissions from other attendees. He then sent the other contributers a copy of the finished CD.
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Billy Just remember someone else is always worse off. Like this poor soul!!!
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Mike The exotic corks are less expensive than premium cork, a lot tougher and wear like iron. I found this out when I started reaming my new handle out. It took me over 1/2 an hour to ream it!! I have to get a set of those Dream Reamers!!! LOL I also think the exotic corks make a very attractive grip and it has the same feel as natural cork. The downside is it's heavier than natural cork. Her
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TEQUILA
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Scott You are going to epoxy the seat to the blank and the skeleton parts to the seat. I think this will make it more than strong enough as they will essentially be one piece if they are properly fitted and epoxied. Just my .02
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Greg You will need to gather some more information from your client. You will need to know haow they intend to fish ie. Drit (bottom bounce) or float. You will also need to know if they will be using baitcaster, spinning or center pin reel. Next you will need to know their intended line/leader rating. There are different actions as well. If your client wants a traditional noodle rod you wi
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Sorry Scott I forgot the link!!!!
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I came across this in my web travels. A nice little lathe for turning your reel seats and butt caps. It's a little on the pricy side though. OOPS forgot the link!!!
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I just finished a grip & used TRU oil on it looks great!!
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Randy Parpart (Putter) Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I mix on cardboard squares about 4" x 4" with the > same spat, just like Lynn outlined above. > > Putter > Williston, ND You measure your cardboard for mixing?????? I just rip the lid off a box & have at er' LOL
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The biggest carp I have ever caught was on my 16 foot HMG float rod with 8# main line and a 4# leader. Weight was 55#. You need to get some more info about how they will be fishing and line weight.
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I just scoop out portions with 2 popsicle sticks (one for resin, one for hardener) onto a piece of cardboard and mix away. Pretty scientific huh!
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I like the slower rpm motors, I run a 5 rpm. I think I get a better quality finish with the slower speed.
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Mike What size of carp will the inquiree be fishing for? Most of the carp rods I have seen are in the 11 to 13 foot range with line weights raning from about 4 to 15 pounds. CTS has some pretty sweet carp rod blanks. You will need to find out how he/she is going to fish for them as well ie. float, ledgering (bottom fishing) etc. I'm sure there are much more experianced carp hunters out there
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If you are going the fore grip route I would turn the area of the weave under size so that the finished product will end up even with the original diameter. Another thing I would do is to lay down a couple of coats of finish in the channel before starting, this will make it easier to move your threads around when you do your weave. Just my .02
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Yes. This cheveron is tied on a blank that is 8.5 mm in diameter. If you do it might I suggest a 4, 6 or even 8 axis wrap. You have plenty of room.
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The other side is for making Checker Board Inlays. Like this.
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Yes I got my copy 2 days ago & thought the same thing. In fact I only found one gramatical error in the whole book!!!!! I wonder who his ghost writer is????
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I think the abuse he is talking about is mostly seen on boat rods, i.e. standup gear bouncing off the rails while fighting big Tuna and such. The epoxy is what protects the thread from any damage but if the rod is rubbing the rail while fighting these brutes the epoxy can be worn away exposing the thread to damage. The heavier threads will be more resistant to any rubbing at this point. I do not
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