You guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. Measuring the diameter of a reel spool surely can't be that big of a deal. What does it take? Ten seconds? How is that going to take you any longer than plotting the intersect point by putting your rod on a table edge or finding the best choker guide location by trial and error? It sure saves time for me. I did not see Tom or anyone else say th
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Spin-Fly Rods, Bernie Cohens EVA Grip Inlays, Etcetera.
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I wonder what you did not like about it? Your first post on the subject seems to indicate that you found no fault with how it performed, but that you just did not like the way it looked. I care more about how things work than how they look. It is all too easy to get trapped into a mode where you fail to try new things or find a better way just because those methods do not look the way you like
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Same sort of buildup for the foam core carbon skin grips and that was no let down! Looking forward to a similar breakthrough in another area of rod building.
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Did they call it a Simple Spiral or did is just show that specific type spiral? Is it a how to article or just showed the rod in use? I will try to locate a copy on the newsstand tomorrow.
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I have never gotten a completely opaque color job with Permagloss. The amount of pigment that it takes to make it go completely transparent seems to affect its properties. I use it knowing that the best I can do is tint it a certain shade.
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Who said that anyone had to change the way they do things? I certainly did not. Several times here in fact it has been said that if you like what you are doing, then keep doing it. Nowhere has anyone here or in the article said that absolutely MUST use the 27X factor. All that was done was to explain where that factor came from and why.
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Any self centering chuck that uses "tommy bars" for tightening is going to come loose every so often. Fact of life. The better self centering chucks are "scroll chucks" and use a geared key for tightening. These stay tight but will cost you twice as much as the chuck you have now.
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The 27X method actually enables you to use smaller guides and have the choker guide closer than most of the sets up done with the old cone of flight system or using the NGC with the spool upsweep method. And it works better all around than either. If you look at the spool upsweep on most reels you will find that most fall in the two degree range, but many have little to NO upsweep. This puts t
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Leather golf grips can be turned around and wrapped with the back side out. That might give you the look and feel you want.
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The 27X method seems to me, to locate the choker guide "just about right." It does not matter how close or far from the tip it is. What matters is that it is the right distance from the reel spool face. With the spool upsweep method the amount of upsweep is so arbitrary as to be totally meaningless those times I have tried it. Two reels of the same identical size and using the same line
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"one could conclude the locking wraps need something to grap hold of." The locking wraps completely encircle the guide leg. Be hard to get much more secure than that. But anything can be damaged or made to fail if enough force is brought to bear.
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What size and type rod are you building?
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The key to the magazine's great success has been twofold. First, you have not reverted to just publishing reprints of earlier articles and Second, you constantly have something new---the next big thing on the horizon for rod builders. For too many years custom rod building was mired in stagnation. I think the magazine is one of the main reasons that so much has happened to the hobby in the past d
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Send your worst customers to your competitors.
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I wonder how many understand that Johnnys Pond is a "window" store with no inventory? It is one of those "internet partners" of another dealer who was once a sponsor here but was dropped for product misrepresentation. The acorn does not fall far from the tree. If you paid by credit card you can surely recover your money with a letter to your card company. A call will not do
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Trondak U40 not going to be there for 2010?
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Drying boxes isolate the rod and the finish from the outside air supposedly keeping dust problems at bay. If you line it with incandescent lighting you can also regulate the temperature inside the box. My guess is that most rod builders do not have need of such a device but I know others that swear by them. Whether or not you need one depends on your specific situation and what you have going on
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I believe the correct information can and already has come from this internet forum----- "I'd advise speaking to your doctor or an allergist about this."
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MidWest Rod and Reel will either have them or can get them. Their link is to the left in the sponsor column on this page.
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Sorry, posted to the wrong topic.
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Uh, my guess is that if we are talking about six inch intervals, then the first interval would be at six inches. Until the chart is expanded, why not just use cents past 303? They are the same thing and there is no need to convert unless you are trying to match a fly line to the rod which you cannot do at that point anyway. Since no one else will be giving you ERN figures beyond that point cur
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Translation- Castaway is not a U.S. based blank manufacturer. The question was "Are there any blank manufacturers based in the U.S.?"
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A #10 or #12 should be more than large enough for a stripping guide on a 4wt rod. I think you will like the way the rod performs much better of you stay with smaller guides.
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Just a heads up for anyone that may not take a daily check of the buy/sell page, there is a nice Renzetti/Clemens lathe package for sell there as of sometime yesterday. It is not mine, I mention this only on the chance that somebody here is looking for one. I know they are sort of hard to find used.
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You can draw as many lines on it as you wish and at any angles you wish. Equi-distant or progressive. If you do not have enough space upright, put the graph flat on the floor and use it that way.
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So after a week of this blather Eugene is now saying EXACTLY what a half a dozen of us have been saying since this silly topic started. Denis does not recognize what type break he has or how graphite rods fail when they do break from overstressing. Hmmm, this is starting to look a little fishy to me, too. Guys that are supposed to know so much seem to be aware of so little. I guess we will know i
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Well the stiffest part of the rod will not be at the butt. Maybe it will work and maybe it will not. Depends on if the piece you choose is strong enough to do what it needs to do in that area. If it were me I would keep looking for something that runs the taper in the same direction as the blank.
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If you have a 7' rod blank and are building a casting rod and want good stress distribution, just do this, Use 7 guides plus a tip. Put the first guide 4" behind the tip. Then the second guide 5" past that one, the next 6" behind that one, the next 7" behind that one, the next 8" behind that one, the next 9" behind that one, and the last one 10" behind that one.
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"There may be good reason to make sure guides are not placed where they can contribute to rod failure under load" If such areas existed on a blank I am sure the blank manufacturer would make a note NOT to place a guide there. The only stress points PRIOR to the build are going to be where the graphite pattern has been cut at sharp angles. But this does not seem to be causing any prob
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