Dang, I’ve been Jonesing for some good fried chicken. I am curious about those Matrix fly blanks though. Are they an upgrade from earlier models? Loved those.
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I don’t know if it will work but, I still have the two piece version of that rod blank. Never got around to building it. You could maybe cut it and mak an entire new tip. It would take some careful measuring. Let me know if your interested in it.
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I wrap the threads with teflon plumbing tape. But an old candle works also.
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If you find that 6 or 7 piece rod let me know I have a spare zippered nylon covered rod tube left from a Cabelas Stowaway 7
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Cabelas also made a 7 pc 8’ 4 wt. i know this because back when they offered those as blanks I bought and built both the ‘ 5 wt and the 8’ 4 wt
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There are all kinds of instructions online on how to “refurbish” a silk fly line. the first step is to find a tapered line in the correct size that hasn’t degraded.
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Well this is where I have to disagree with Phil. Fiberglass and other composites degrade over time especially when exposed to environmental factors such as UV. I restored,yes I said restored, hundreds of bamboo fly rods to original condition. Unless the rod was not taken care of i.e left in the bottom of a wet boat. I’ve never seen major degradation. On the other hand I’ve seen some prett
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Granger originally used lacquer as a cp. Al’s works good but takes 4 coats If you can find it in some old hobby shop. Aerogloss Dope in clear gloss is the best. Use it outside as this stuff is like sniffing glue. Other options are Delf clear brushing lacquer.
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I have what you are seeking. Pm me
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I picked up a couple of TFO 7’3” 3 wt. 4 pc blanks from a Mudhole just before Thanksgiving. They are a deep gold brown color. I don’t know if they still have any or if any other supplier does.
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Has anyone heard how Johnny is doing? I got a message about a month ago from him saying he was in the hospital. There's been a banner on his site saying he is going in for surgery on Friday. That banner has been up for a few weeks. Hope he's doing OK or at least recovering.
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Having redone grips on my fair share of bamboo rods I’d do this. Make four slits the length of the grip with a utility knife. Then pit a small screwdriver in one of the slits and twist. Chucks should pop off. Repeat as necessary. Clean up any remaining glue/cork with the same utility knife. There you go.
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I just finished a rod and used Al’s. Blue silk with white silk tipping. Yep I was worried about bloching. I think I did three coats of CP. the first coat i made sure I saturated the guide feet. Then the other two were normal coats. No problems. Rod looks great and the colors are bright.
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Ive restored bamboo rods for over 25 years. On most jobs I charge a flat fee. Things like rods with a ton of intermediate wraps cost more and many were charged per wrap I’m actually in the process of downsizing my shop. I may have a tip section kicking around. I need to know the lenght and ferrule diameter.
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Some of the suppliers do have Pantone cross reference numbers. Problem is that not all thread comes in every Pantone shade.
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This is the official colors. I looked at them everyday for years.
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May not be what you saw but I’ve got 1 or 2 vintage Red all aluminum with gold hoods and nuts if you are interested..
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Dick, bamboo restoration is a lot of what I do. Been doing it for almost 30 years. The order you have them listed is probably your order of value. The Sinclair book is a good reference. I would be happy to help walk you through the process. I probably even have parts if you need them. Message me if you want and we can chat..
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There is a bunch of talk on this on the bamboo rod forum.
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Factory rods use an epoxy type finish. Spar varnish is popular with the bamboo crowd and some fiberglass builders. Another good choice would be permagloss or lumiseal.
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Factory rods use an epoxy type finish. Spar varnish is popular with the bamboo crowd and some fiberglass builders. Another good choice would be permagloss or lumiseal.
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Factory rods use an epoxy type finish. Spar varnish is popular with the bamboo crowd and some fiberglass builders. Another good choice would be permagloss or lumiseal.
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Yea posting pictures is probably a lot better than entering a contest. Especially one where the guy running the contest enters his own work then declares himself one of the winners.
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I got some salmon skin pieces from a company that was making wallets etc out of it. I found it a bit too thick and the scale pattern just wasn't there for my taste.
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If the finish is still pretty solid it should respond well to some auto wax.
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If the finish is still pretty solid it should respond well to some auto wax.
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Post war rod brought back by G.I's from every PX around. Quality is suspect. They look good hanging on a wall.
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On a related note. We all talk about the pros and cons of different finishes I.e. Epoxy,varnish, permanent gloss , lumiseal. However, at the Expo there was the U.V finishing system that was being shown and was even offered up as a door prize. Why no talk about this the the greater scheme of finishing. From what I say in the demo it was more fool proof than epoxy. Thought, comments?
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Ive Got some genuine Heddon NOS guides. Still on the way back from ICRBE so give me a few and I'll see what ibhave to hook you up
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I build mostly fly rods. All the suggestions above are more than valid. If you are building for yourself then find a style of blank you like. Some like a super fast graphite for big water while others enjoy the resurgence of fiberglass. All the makers mentioned put out a quality product. If you are going to ICRBE then I'm sure you could kick the tires on a ton of options. Also post in the w
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