Jim, The Lite formula is much more like LS Supreme or Aftcote in it's cure cycle, but it's thinner than LS. The potlife at 70 degrees is 1 hour, the tack free time is about 6 hours. If you were to heat cure, you're probably looking at a full cure time of about 3 hours or so at 120 degrees. The new Lite is an awesome resin for low build multiple coat applications....it's water clea
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Yeah...it's no problem, just be sure you hit that 110-120 degree mark for about 2-3 hours and you're good. Now, I will say that the with the new TM Lite Formula these rules don't apply, because it has a longer cure cycle. You can still accelerate it with heat, but it won't be ready quite as fast as the High Build will. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Jim, When we test new formulas here we accelerate the cure via heat at 120 degrees and the polymers reach a FULL useable cure in about 2 hours, give or take a few minutes depending on the inherent cure cycle of the finish. I have had the folks in the lab where TM is made test this as well, and their results mirror mine. So, yes you are being over cautious, but that's certainly your cal
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Jim, You're just a bit off regarding ThreadMaster's cure cycle. You can actually heat-cure ThreadMaster and have it ready to fish in about 2-3 hours. In fact yesterday I built a rod for a local fishing guide, applied finish at 11.00am, let it gel up, then zapped it with a hair dryer and had it packed and ready to ship by 3:00pm. Truth be known, you can heat cure most, if not al
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FYI, We already offer this material in a thickness slightly less than 1/8" thick.....it's pretty thin, and I doubt you could cut it any thinner w/o a lot of hassle Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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I was going to title this post "Strip Tease" but I wasn't sure if it would be apropriate or not! Yeah, I think this is going to blow handle design wide open. I am really excited to see what y'all do with it. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Starting June 1st, we will begin offering the Exotic Burl material in 1.5" x 12" long strips. The strips will be available in all 4 patterns and all 3 thicknesses. I had been thinking about this for sometime, however I was unsure whether there was a demand for the material in strip form. Recent dialogue with Billy Vivona and Joe Emig, have convinced me to do this....and I think it will
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Tim, Check your email. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Tim, We are screenprinting the bottles as we speak, and are hoping to have the Lite available for Memorial Day. If it's not ready by memorial day, it will be just a few days after that. Best regards, Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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John, Please email me directly, as your email address is hidden. I am the manufacturer of ThreadMaster finish and have some tips that will solve your problems. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing Products
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Alan, It's safe to actually fish with a rod built with the 15 in about 20-25 minutes. As for gluing acrylic parts to be turned, I would wait 45 minutes or so just to be safe, because when you turn something you build up a lot of heat that could potentially wreak havoc with the cure cycle. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Russ, The High Build cure cycle is as follows: PotLife: 20 minutes Gel Time (Rotation time): 3 Hours Tack Free time: 4-5 hours Re-Coat Time: within 24 hours Useable Cure Time: after 36 hours
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Ted, FishSticks4U will be stocking Pink CTS Pro-Series blanks in a few weeks. We have sold a ton of these over the past few years to the female Bass Fishermen. Call Robert or Ray @ FishSticks for more info. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Actually the best way to thin the High Build is to heat ONLY one component , either the hardener or the resin. Heating both parts will greatly accelerate the cure if you heat it too much. I like to heat the resin about 6-8 seconds, then mix in with the hardener. It will mix really easy, but will cool a lot quicker because the hardener hasn't been heated. I've been doing this for a few weeks now w
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Russ is thinking of Cork Seal....the cork filler will be released in the next few months. Just got too many new products on the table to be released at the moment. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Applying any sort of finish or sealer to Exotic Burl takes away the "leathery" feel of the cork. Additionally after a season or two of use, the topcoat will become splotchy and need to be sanded and reapplied (as it does with cork seal). It does however enhance the grain a bit for those who like that sort of look. I will say that Tru-Oil (to me) does look better than Cork Seal. Cork Sea
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I have a good friend that owns several and he indicates to me (as have others) that they are super fragile. After he broke the tip section on one, he tried to use the bottom portion as a tapered reamer, and it broke under the mild stress of hand reaming a cork grip. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Ooops....posting the same time as you Mike Andy
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Hi Chase, Our 15 minute is a gel/paste...it is gap filling and non sagging very similiar to RodBond.....very easy to mix and apply. By the way, when are the ringlock Titan's going to be released? I may be interested in those. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Jay, It's a gel similiar to RodBond, but not quite as thick. Our epoxy is gap filling and non-sagging but it is also thixatropic, meaning you can manipulate it to flow if you need to.like Ketchup, it stays put unless you tamp the bottle, then it will flow very very slowly. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Marc, We have a new epoxy that we just released that cures in 15 minutes. Has about 13 minutes of working time before it starts to gel. Several lOEM's are already using it becuase they can cork out 8-10 rods before it starts to gel, yet they're ready to wrap in 15 minutes. It's called Ultimate Epoxy-15. Best Regards, Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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That's how I do it.....scoop out equal parts by eye. You can use measuring spoons if you like, but it's a lot less messy to just lump out equal parts. On the new 5 minute and 15 minute the measuring is a bit more critical than on the slow cure, so get the parts as close as you can. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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All CTS get flexed at the factory to test for breakage, and then I flex them again prior to shipping. So I am pretty sure it was a shipping damage issue. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Phil, This sounds to me like the rod may have been damaged in transit or something. After all your blanks do get shippedhalfway around the world to a boat in the middle of nowhere! Our breakage rate on these blanks is very very low. Email me when you can and let me know which blank it is, and we'll talk about getting it covered under warranty. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Trey, You're exactly correct....there's moisture getting in there somehow and reconstituting the CP back to it's milky state. I used to have a St. Croix Flyrod that had Clemes Brilliance CP and Crystal Coat that did this EVERYTIME I went fishing, then it would clear up after a day or two. Additionally you really need to wait at least 48 hours after application of the epoxy to fish the ro
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Andrei, Please email me directly for more info and I'll be happy to discuss it in more detail w/you. Best Regards, Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Epoxies actually darken for a number of reasons, none of which have to do with cure time. ThreadMaster has the quickest cure time of most rodbuilding finishes, yet it stays the clearest of any of the 2 part systems, and for the longest of any of them. The yellowing is a breakdown occuring withing the 2 part system (usually in the hardener), and can be caused by UV, heat, age or all three together
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Rodger, If you want them to match, simply replace the guide, finish it with FlexCoat, then set it out in the sun for about 3-5 days (be sure to cover the other wraps up just in case the yellow a little more. It should yellow pretty close to the original finish on the other guides. Our finish tests show that FlexCoat yellows heavily in the first week or so, then it tends to
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I had that a while back as well on a spinning rod I built. I think Lance Dupre had a good explanation for it here a few weeks back. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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FishSticks has CTS in stock and ready for sale. Bingham will have a working inventory shortly as well. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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