Hi Bartosz, You can recoat in about 6 hours, or as soon as the finish is "tack free" No do not re-use syringes or yorkers that have been used with other brands of finish. ThreadMaster is a different chemical technology than FlexCoat, and is not compatible. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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If anyone else, besides the three authorized distributors are selling it, they are buying it from one of the three authorized distributors and re-selling it. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Bryan, The High Build and the Lite are exactly the same technology, just different viscosities....100% compatible with one another. You can use one over the other and vice versa. I have found that I really like guides wrapped and then "primed" with the lite, with a coat of High Build over the top. The lite penetrates quicker, and allows more working time. while the top
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Tony, Stabilized wood usually weghs about 3x as much as nonstabilized wood. It depends on the inherent properties of the species and how much of the acrylic it actually soaks up, but on the average stabilized wood wil be much heavier than it's nonstabilized counterpart. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Paul, No worries, and certainly no offense taken! I'm happy if you're happy. AW should have their shipment of Lite in already...call Dave or Rick and ask them...I bet it's there. And you're absolutely right about the application of the decal. I probbaly should have mentioned this yesterday, but it slipped my mind. Sometimes if the edges of the decal don't lay absolutely perfectl
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Yes, they all have that odor. It's a chemical in the hardener called mercaptin. In the industry it's affectionately known as "the rotten egg hardener" because it smells like.... Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Paul, I didn't mean to insenuate that you can't apply TM High Build in a thin coat, but there is an optimum film thickness that gives the best and most easily repeatable "level" results. That's what I should have said. Are you guys using any sort of chemicals with your waterslides? I built 3 rods last week with waterslides and the finish over the top of them is as level as
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No....you guys aren't applying your epoxy correctly. The key to getting any finish to level over anything longer than a guide wrap is to use lots of lengthwise strokes. Don't spiral the finish around the blank with a brush while the rod is rotating. The key is to use gentle lengthwise strokes, and you'll get a finish that's so incredibly level you can lay a ruler on top of it and they'll be absol
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Kyle, I tried to email you some info regarding ThreadMaster directly, but your address is hidden. Contact me at andy@lamarfishing.com and I'll be happy to discuss the particulars of this issue with you. We are the company that designed ThreadMaster. Best Regards, Andy Dear Lamar
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Hi Terry, Yes, all of my distributors should have it in stock by today. Domestically, it is available through: Angler's Workshop Bingham Enterprises FishSticks4U For International Distributors, Please visit www.lamarfishing.com Best Regards, Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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No Duane.....I agree with you 100% that heat is the way to thin...not solvents. However there is a sizeable contingent of builders out there who like to take their time coating a rod. I have seen folks spend upwards of 10 minutes on 1 guide wrap. So heating can definately cause some issues with folks who need longer than 25 minutes to coat a rod. But you're right on target...if you want it thin,
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"What would you think is a reasonable max temperature to get the fastest tack free state with Threadmaster Classic and Lite, without trapping volatiles under a skin" That's impossible to say, because it depends on how much solvent you put in to the mix, what film thickness you're dealing with...several different facotors that can all play a part in the equation. That's why formulator
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The primary reason nobody reccomends thinning with a solvent is because of the epoxy hardens before the solvent can evaporate back out, you're going to end up with a soft tacky guide wrap. Acetone is the most volitile we've tried, so you lessen the chances of this because it evaporates back out so quickly, and I can tell you from expierence that discoloration from acetone will not happen with Thr
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There will be no need to thin the new ThreadMaster Lite. You'll see that just by visually comparing the viscosities of the Part A Resin. If for some unknown reason you need the Lite version thinner, heat the hardener for about 6 seconds in a microwave, and you'll have a viscosity similiar to warm varnish when the 2 parts are mixed. Don't know why anyone would want it that thin, but you can manipu
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Scott, The best material for epoxy ramps is our 15 minute gel. It's thick so you can shape it, but cures quick enough that you don't have to rotate it to keep it from sagging (even though it's pretty much non-sagging anyway) Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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BAT or BAST was the internal factory prefix for the Titanium Series, not the IM10 series. BAT826T is a 6'10" Telescoping Pitching Stick Titanium Series 12-20lb Line 3/8-3/4oz Lures BAT905SB is a 7'6" Medium Power Spin Blank Titanium Series 8-17lb Line 1/4-5/8oz Lures The other model is most likely a private label blank made from the Elite Series, for which I have no specs on.
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Hey Guys, We just received the first shipment of the new ThreadMaster Lite Formula. All of our distributors have placed stocking orders, and will have product on the shelf the first part of next week. Those of you who have been looking for a True Lite 2 part Polymer finish, this is it....thin viscosity, bubble free, and levels beautifully. Unlike other Lite Formulas on
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Justin, Shoot me an email privately when you can. It sounds like you and I fish the exact same water (Rockport/Aransas Pass, and Upper Laguna). Maybe we can get together and you can personally fish some of the CTS blanks we've designed specifically for the Gulf Coast. I'll even buy you lunch! Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Absolutely.... I had to remove one just this past saturday. It took about 6 applications of 3-5 seconds of heat from an alcohol torch to soften the epoxy, then just twist it off. BE sure to wear gloves as the tip top will be quite hot. I suppose like Ernie said the bigger tops like rollers would require a bit more heat, but on a fly top or Bass type spin/cast it only takes a minute or two to get
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Justin, We have 6'9" blanks in the CTS lineup. Addiitonally ANY and ALL of the CTS tapers can be made into a 6'9" blank. So say for example you like the the CTS EBT843, which is a 7' blank, but want that exact taper in a 6'9" length...that's absolutely no problem. I do custom tapers for folks all the time for a (very) small upcharge. Having been an AllStar distri
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JP, We actually cut the strips to length/width on the table saw. WHen you say dead on, you didn't give any tolerances as an example, but it should hold tolerences almost as good as wood will. Let's put it this way....it should cut as accurate as you're table saw is capable of. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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They're heating it to slightly thin it so that it mixes with less bubbles. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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The only problem with warming BOTH components is that you'll significantly reduce potlife. If that doesn't bother you, then go right ahead and warm both.... Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Chris, The version of TM currently on the market is a High Build formula. Next week will see the release of the new Lite Formula. The new Lite formula is quite thin and you can't hardly mix a bubble into it. The High Build (like most high builds) takes a little more care, especially in colder weather to keep the bubbles out. What I reccomend is that when using the High Build tha
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Hey guys, The first shipments of Exotic Burl Strips are being processed today. If you're interested, take a look at www.lamarfishing.com for a list of Domestic and International Distributors. I am really looking forward to see what you guys do with the material in this new format.....it should really open up the door for an endless amount of design possibilities. Bes
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Hi Chris, You can view a list of distributors at www.lamarfishing.com Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Hi Chris, You can view a list of distributors at www.lamarfishing.com
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Very easy....it lets go with mild heat from an alcohol torch or lighter. What you do is heat the tip momentarily (a couple of seconds) and then gently twist , be sure to wear a glove as the tip will be hot. If it doesn't twist off, heat for another 2-3 seconds, then twist. It may take about 2 or 3 applications of quick heat and the tip will twist right off. What you don't want to do is heat at l
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James, We have designed a 5 minute Gel Epoxy specifically for this purposethat is gap filling and non-sagging. It's called Ultimate Epoxy-5 Minute. It's much better than the standard thin viscosity epoxy because it fills any slight gaps that may exist between the taper of the blank and the inside of the tube. Aditionally it's thick enough that when the tip-top is mounted it won
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Bruce, All Threads will go transparent when epoxy is applied to them. In fact they'll go transparent when water, alcohol, or any other liquid is applied to them. The difference is that water completely evaporates back out and epxoy leaves a 100% solids coating in the threads. What happens is that when thread becomes saturated the thread goes transparent, and turns darker than the
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